What must I do before I die? 什么是人生必须做的事？

By Antonia Macaro and Julian Baggini

Published: May 20 2011 23:04 | Last updated: May 20 2011 23:04

The Shrink

There are scores of books recommending places to see, books to read, music to hear, golf holes to play or watercourses to fly-fish before we die. There are even dedicated websites that assist people in ticking items off the list. You might agree that this sounds a bit excessive. But aren’t we all under an ill-defined pressure to do, see and experience more? And aren’t we all accompanied by a vague sense of inadequacy if we realise we’re not keeping up?

It is sadly true that our time on earth is limited, and we’d be well advised to avoid wasting it. It has been said that instead of getting through our days doing routine things on autopilot, we should engage in new and uncomfortable experiences. These stretch our perception of time and, in a sense, our life. Then there is the research that tells us that people are happier when they spend their money on experiences rather than objects.

But we shouldn’t absorb this cultural pressure unquestioningly. How many new experiences we engage in and how often we do so should depend on our personality, values and situation. Spending our time well doesn’t always equate with doing more.

For a start, if you rely on novelty to keep life interesting, you risk ending up on a perpetual treadmill, always seeking the next thrill. We should also consider the possibility of restoring some sparkle to routine things by doing them more mindfully. While a certain amount of novelty can certainly be valuable, there are other goods – simplicity, contentment and the savouring of small everyday pleasures. A rich life can be one in which a few things have been experienced deeply.

The answer to the question of what must we do before we die, by the way, is “nothing”. Like everything else, diversity of experience will become oppressive if taken as a “must”, even if you’re the kind of person who thrives on it. We don’t have to do anything, although we might choose to do many things. On the other hand, we might just find it more satisfying to watch the blue tits in our garden, like we have done so many times before.

The Sage

The race to do as much as possible before we reach our expiry date is rooted in a justifiable desire to experience life in its fullest intensity, squeezing out as much from each second as is possible. However, as the Danish existentialist Soren Kierkegaard acutely observed, the end result of this is often a life that is empty, not full. It becomes like trying to drink from a constant flow of champagne with a sieve for a glass. The present always eludes us: the moment we try to grasp it, it has already become the past.

The problem is that there is a real sense in which we are trapped in what Kierkegaard called the “aesthetic” sphere of existence.

Life is a present-tense phenomenon: we can recall the past and anticipate the future but can only be in the here and now. But that is only half the story. In another sense, we do indeed exist over time as well as at a time, through our memories, intentions and projects. Life in this “ethical” sphere requires us to attend to more than just the thrills of the moment. As any common hangover will remind us, living only for today can cause a headache tomorrow.

The person who heeds the modern imperative to do as much as possible before she dies risks becoming the Kierkegaardian aesthete par excellence. She may know that every moment has immense value, but does she know how to value it? Even the best moments of pleasure take on a different value, depending on where in a life story they come. The enjoyment of a great meal, for instance, is not just a function of chemicals in the food interacting with taste buds. It can make a big difference, even to how flavours are sensed, when, where and with whom the meal is savoured.

It is certainly true that we need to make the most of the short, fleeting life we have. However, to do that requires savouring the journey along the passage of time, not just making as many stops along the way as possible.

The Shrink & The Sage live together in south-west England

什么是人生必须做的事？

安东尼娅•马卡罗, 朱利安•巴吉尼 , 为英国《金融时报》撰稿 2011-06-13 (www.ftchinese.com)

神经医生

有许许多多的书，推荐一生必游的地方、必看的书、必听的音乐、必打的高尔夫球场球洞和飞钓必去的水域。甚至还有专门的网站，帮助人们把“必做”名单上的项目一一勾掉。你也许也会认为这听上去有点儿过分了。然而，我们都在承受着一种莫名的压力，要去做、去看、去经历更多，不是吗？如果意识到自己落后于他人，我们都会怀有一种隐隐的不称职感，不是吗？

我们在世的时间是有限的，这是个令人遗憾的事实；因此不要浪费时间是个好建议。有人说，与其像开启了自动驾驶一样天天重复着同样的事情，我们不如投身于新的、不那么自在的体验。这样做能够拉长我们对时间的观感，并在某种意义上拉长我们的人生。此外，有研究表明，人们在体验上花钱，比买东西时更愉悦。

但我们不应不假思索地接受这种文化压力。投身于多少种新体验、多频繁地投入，应由我们的性格、价值观和处境所决定。好好利用时间，并不总是等同于做更多事。

首先，如果依赖新奇感来保持生活的趣味，最终可能踩上一部永不停止的跑步机，永远在追寻下一个刺激。我们应该也思考一下是否有可能通过多花些心思，让日常事务在某种程度上重放异彩。当然，一定程度的新奇感会是有价值的，但生活中还有别的美好事物——简单、满足感、对日常小乐趣的玩味。深刻地体会少数几样事物，也可以构建一个丰富的人生。

顺便说一句，“什么是人生必须做的事”，这个问题的答案是：没有。跟所有东西一样，当多样化的体验变成一种“必须”时，它也会变得令人难以忍受，即便你是那种喜欢多姿多彩生活的人。没有什么必须做的事情，不过我们可以选择去做许多事情。但另一方面，可能我们就是觉得，观察自家花园中的青山雀更有意思，就像以往多次做过的那样。

圣人

在“大限”到来之前，争着尽可能多做些事，这植根于一种合乎情理的渴望：将人生体验到极致，尽可能从每一秒中挤出更多内容。然而，如丹麦存在主义者索伦•克尔恺郭尔(Soren Kierkegaard)敏锐的评论：这样做的最终结果，常常是导致一个空虚、而非圆满的人生。这会变得如同试图用筛子当酒杯，去接不断流出的香槟。当下会始终躲避着我们：在我们试图抓住它的那一刻，它就已经变成了过去。

问题在于，在某种意义上，确实可以说我们被困于克尔恺郭尔所谓的“审美（也称伦理、宗教）”层次的存在。

生活是一种“现在时”的现象：我们可以回忆过去，或展望未来，但只能活在此时、此地。但这只是问题的一方面。从另一个意义上来说，我们既存在于一个时点，也确实存在于一段时间——通过我们的记忆、意向和规划。这种“伦理”层次的存在，要求我们不能只关心当下的刺激。就像宿醉带给我们的启示那样：只管今天快活，明天就会头痛。

听从“趁活着的时候必须尽量多做些事”这种现代要求的人，可能会成为杰出的克尔恺郭尔式审美家。她也许知道，每一刻都非常珍贵，但她是否知道如何衡量每一刻的价值？甚至连最开心的那些时刻，取决于它们在人生经历中所处的位置，价值也互不相同。就拿一顿美餐来说，它带来的享受，不只是食物中的化学成分发挥作用、与味蕾互动而产生的。时间、地点、共同品味食物的人，都会导致大不相同的感受，甚至会改变口中食物的味道。

当然，我们短暂、稍纵即逝的一生的确需要好好利用。然而，好好利用，需要我们在时间的长廊里细细品味人生旅程，而不只是沿途停靠尽可能多的站点。

精神科医师与哲人一起居住在英格兰西南部

男性必备的经典行头 A Bespoke Checklist for Every Man's Closet

A Bespoke Checklist for Every Man's Closet

2011年 06月 08日 08:02
London's Savile Row has been home to the city's top tailors for almost three centuries. These days, however, the bespoke tradition is under threat 伟 due tohigh rents, a dearth of tailoring talent, and a decline in customer numbers.

Among those that have felt the pinch is Anderson & Sheppard, a 103-year-old firm whose suits have been worn by Prince Charles, Noel Coward and Tom Ford. When the lease on its Savile Row space expired in 2005, the firm was forced to move to cheaper premises on neighboring Old Burlington Street (only tailors within 100 yards of Savile Row are allowed to use the name).

'[In the past,] some [clients] changed three times in the day, and many had valets who would manage their wardrobes. People [now] have less time to build or maintain the perfect wardrobe,' says John Hitchcock, Anderson & Sheppard's managing director, who joined the tailoring house as an apprentice trouser maker in 1964. Mr. Hitchcock isn't giving up on tailoring heritage 伟 Anderson & Sheppard is a founding member of the Savile Row Bespoke Association, created in 2004 to help protect the art of bespoke tailoring.

We asked Mr. Hitchcock to pick five classic items that every man should have in his wardrobe.

A navy pinstripe double-breasted suit: A fine navy pinstripe avoids the louder gangster look that some people associate with the double-breasted suit. The double-breasted suit is one of the most flattering garments that a man can wear as it creates a longer line and more defined waist. This hides the stomach and accentuates the chest and shoulders.

A herringbone tweed jacket in brown, blue or gray: Tweed is the easiest and most classic way for a man to bring color into his wardrobe. Depending on the color and pattern, the jacket can be worn in the town or in the country; with gray flannel trousers or with jeans; with a shirt and with a sweater, and throughout autumn and winter. [Good tweeds are] hard wearing and get better with age.

Mid-gray flannel trousers with turn-ups: Gray flannel continues to be a favorite with our customers in the creative industry as it has a relaxed feel. These trousers work with most jackets and even just with a shirt and sweater. Avoid belt loops and choose side tabs or brace buttons and a buttonfly. The width of the turn-ups is important, as it is better not to have any rather than thin ones.

A classic white cotton shirt: Gary Cooper and Cary Grant were champions of the white shirt, as it always looks fresh and elegant. I prefer mine with a semi-cutaway collar, double cuffs and mother-of-pearl buttons. [However] always [get one] without a breast pocket or a button down collar.

A single-breasted Chesterfield-style navy-blue herringbone overcoat with a matching velvet collar: You can put this over whatever you are wearing; even pajamas, and you will instantly look smart. The real tastemakers in the 1920s and '30s wore theirs very fitted as they knew that the overcoat creates an immediate impression.

Kristiano Ang

2011年 06月 08日 08:02

近

三百年来，伦敦萨维尔街(Savile Row)一直聚集着这座城市的顶级裁缝师。不过如今这种量身定制的传统却面临威胁，原因是租金高昂、裁缝人才稀缺，再加上顾客数量也日渐下滑。

Harry Harrison

约翰·希区柯克(John Hitchcock)

有着103年历史的老店Anderson & Sheppard就是对此有切肤之痛的公司之一。查尔斯王子(Prince Charles)、诺埃尔·科沃德(Noel Coward)和汤姆·福特(Tom Ford)都曾经是这家公司的客户。2005年该公司在萨维尔街的租约到期，不得不迁到邻近租金较为便宜的老伯灵顿街(Old Burlington Street)（距萨维尔街100码[约91.44米]以内的裁缝才能使用这个街名）。

Anderson & Sheppard的董事总经理约翰·希区柯克(John Hitchcock)说，过去一些客户会一天换三次衣服，许多人还有专司打理服装的贴身男仆。现在的人没那么多时间去积累或是维护完美的衣帽行头了。希区柯克于1964年加入这家裁缝店做学徒，学习做裤子。他并未放弃裁缝行业的传统──Anderson & Sheppard是萨维尔定制服装协会(Savile Row Bespoke Association)的创会会员之一，该协会成立于2004年，旨在保护服装定制的艺术。

我们请希区柯克选出每个男人的衣橱中都应当置备的五件经典行头。

一件海军蓝细条纹双排扣西装：很多人觉得双排扣西装给人一种粗野的感觉，精致的海军蓝细条纹能够避免这一点。双排扣西装是最能衬托身形的男式服装之一，它会让穿着者显得更修长挺拔、也更显腰身。这种款式能够让肚子不那么明显，并突出胸部和肩部。

斜纹花呢夹克，颜色为棕色、蓝色或灰色：男人要想让自己的衣橱色彩丰富一些，花呢是最简单易行、同时又是最经典的方式。根据颜色和样式的不同，这样的夹克适合于各种场合穿着；它可以搭配灰色法兰绒裤子，也可以搭牛仔裤；配衬衫和套头衫均无不可，而且由秋至冬都能穿。（好的花呢）十分耐穿，而且穿得越久越有味道。

中灰色卷边法兰绒裤：灰色法兰绒给人一种闲适的感觉，仍然是从事创意产业的客户的最爱。这种裤子可以搭配大多数外套，甚至还可以直接配衬衫和套头衫。不要选择带裤袢的款式，而应该选侧袢或搭肩带扣和系扣裤门。卷边的宽窄很重要，因为窄卷边还不如不要卷。

经典的白色纯棉衬衫：加里·库柏(Gary Cooper)和加里·格兰特(Cary Grant)穿白衬衫是最出众的，穿在他们身上的白衬衫永远那么干净优雅。我自己喜欢的风格是八字领、双层袖口和珍珠母纽扣。不过一定要有一件不带胸袋、也没有拌扣领的衬衫。

单排扣长款海军蓝斜纹大衣，带相配的天鹅绒领：你可以把它穿在任何衣服的外面；就连睡衣都可以，然后你马上就会显得潇洒时尚。上世纪二三十年代那些真正的时尚先锋人物穿这种大衣的时候力求合身，因为他们知道大衣会给人留下最直接的印象。

How to Find a Sense of Style 男人如何找到穿衣风格 男式成衣如何穿出好品位？

How to Find a Sense of Style

2011年 05月 03日 08:11
Q: How does a man find his sense of style?

A: Good style is easy to recognize, but hard to define. At its best, it should appear effortless and timeless, and it should withstand the whims of fashion's fads.

Here are a few ideas on how to find your inner sartorial soul:

1. The books. There are countless titles, but three stand out as good references on how to dress well: 'The Handbook of Style: A Man's Guide to Looking Good' (an entertaining read by the style team from Esquire); 'Dressing the Man' (by Alan Flusser, a designer and stylist whose movie credits include 'Wall Street'); and 'Gentleman: A Timeless Guide to Fashion' (by German writer Bernhard Roetzel, an expert on bespoke tailoring).

2. The blogs. Check out permamentstyle.co.uk, written by menswear writer Simon Crompton, and thesartoralist.com, a blog composed mostly of photos taken on the street of dapper men and women. Tumblr, the social media tool, is charging into fashion, too, and Asia's own mostexerent.tumblr.com is a great source for classic style tips as well as good design in general.

3. The dad. Even if your dad favors sweatpants over suits, you're bound to find some gems in his closet. Whether it's a vintage Adidas leather gym bag from when he last played tennis, a skinny plaid tie from his undergraduate days, or a pair of cufflinks that he hasn't worn since his wedding, mine what you can from his dresser. You never know what's there unless you look

4. The basics. Rebuild your closet from the foundation up. A well-styled man doesn't require much, but retooling your wardrobe requires time and focus. Keep it simple: Start with a good suit, two quality shirts and a pair of well-made oxfords. Once you've found those, you'll gradually develop a habit of dressing well─one that will stay with you for the rest of your life.

Jason Chow

问

：男人如何找到自己的风格品位？

答：好的风格品位很容易被看出来，但很难描述。如能很好地把握，你的穿衣风格应该是浑然天成的，经得住时间考验的，能够抵御流行时尚的冲动。
 下面这些点子有助于你找到心灵的裁缝：

1.看书：这方面的书籍浩如烟海，但想要穿着得体，有三本不可不看：《风格手册：男士穿衣指南》（The Handbook of Style: A Man's Guide to Looking Good，这本娱乐读物由《时尚先生Esquire》的风格团队打造）；《衣冠楚楚：男士完全着装手册》（Dressing the Man，作者是设计师兼造型师Alan Flusser，其作品包括电影《华尔街》中的人物造型）；《绅士：终极时尚指南》（Gentleman: A Timeless Guide to Fashion，作者是德国作家、高级定制专家Bernhard Roetzel）

2.看博客：经常要看的博客包括：permamentstyle.co.uk，博主是男装作家克朗普顿（Simon Crompton）；thesartoralist.com，这个博客主要放的是型男靓女的街拍照片；社交媒体工具Tumblr也正在时尚领域发力，亚洲的mostexerent.tumblr.com上可以找到很多经典的穿衣建议以及很多优秀的设计。

3.翻翻老爸的衣柜：哪怕你的老爸更喜欢穿运动裤而不是西装，你也一定会在他的衣橱里找到一些宝贝。这有可能是一只他以前打网球时用的复古阿迪达斯皮质运动包；也有可能是他上大学时穿的格子窄领带；或是他结婚时佩戴的一对袖扣；尽可能地从老爸的衣橱里挖掘，除非你找过，否则你也不知道里边有什么宝贝。

4.学习穿衣的基本知识：从最底层开始整理衣柜。一个风格出众的男士并不需要很多衣服，但重新整理衣柜却需要时间和精力。保持简单：一套做工精致的西装；两件材质过硬的衬衫；一双制作考究的牛津鞋。一旦你找到这些基本搭配，你就会逐渐养成得体穿衣的习惯，这种习惯会伴随你的一生。

Jason Chow

Looking Good off the Rack?

2011年 03月 28日 07:46
After two decades of casual wear and sack suits, the '00s saw a notable movement toward custom-made clothing. Egged on by the success of shows such as 'Mad Men,' tailors on Savile Row have reported marked increases in business in the last part of the Noughties.

But with bespoke suits from reputable tailors on the Row costing upwards of 2,500 British pounds (about US$4,000), compared with $600 for a suit jacket and trousers from American clothing retailer J. Crew, dressing with flair might seem an unaffordable luxury. Wearing off-the-rack clothing, however, need not be the mark of an ill-dressed man.

'The mark of a master dresser is a deep understanding of his own physicality,' says Mats Klingberg, managing director of Trunk Clothiers, a London menswear store. With off-the-rack clothing being designed for the masses, this means that finding a good alterations tailor is key.

Making the sleeves right is especially important; a too-long sleeve is a trademark of the sloppy dresser. Ethan Newton of P. Johnson, an Australian tailor, says that 'a $9,000 suit two inches too long in the sleeve will look like it's worth all of $90.' His solution: 'Whatever you are willing to spend on a [ready-made] suit, allow at least 20% of that figure for alterations.'

If all you're changing is the sleeve length of a shirt, however, the alterations would cost less. At Iris Tailor in Singapore, cutting three inches off the sleeves of a Z Zegna shirt costs a mere 15 Singapore dollars (US$12), about 7% of the price.

The right size is important with ties, too, says Michael Hill, creative director at the tie and scarf maker Drakes London, who calls ties 'the very thing that personalizes a look.' Most range in width from seven to nine centimeters, and he suggests men with average frames steer clear of the widest ones; a seven- or eight-centimeter tie is more suitable.

For the taller man, tie length can be a concern: A 147-centimeter model, which is the standard length at Drakes, can leave too short a tail when knotted up. Such men might find it worthwhile splurging on ties, even if they wear ready-made suits. Mr. Hill says that Drakes, which sells both off-the-rack and bespoke ties, has made ties as long as 180 centimeters. Bespoke ties from Drakes go for 125 British pounds (US$203), with a minimum order of three at a time.

Picking the right accessories to complement a suit also makes it easier to stand out from the crowd. In particular, pocket squares can help spice up one's look. Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury, a menswear store in Hong Kong, says that 'a basic white linen pocket square is always reliable and always adds a touch of class to outfits.'

Of course, fold it properly. Silk pocket squares can be stuffed into the jacket pocket in a puff or reverse puff form, but cotton and linen squares, Mr. Chan says, favor folding it into a flat rectangle with 'just a slice of fabric showing', which is called a TV fold since the shape is similar to a TV.

Knowing your material when accessorizing also helps. Mr. Cho advises changing the buttons from plastic to natural horn to make a suit look less cheap. Mr. Hill says that ties made from premium material, like 50-ounce Royal Twill foulard, for instance, can make outfits look special. 'Despite the apparent simplicity,' he explains, '[the way] a cloth like that [knots] once it has been made completely by hand makes for something very special.'

However, avoid the temptation to go crazy when accessorizing. According to Patrick Grant, owner of Savile Row tailors Norton & Sons, even bespoke clothing shouldn't be 'about indulging fantasies.' Being well-dressed, says Mr. Grant, who was recently named British menswear designer of 2010, 'does not mean wearing everything bold; it's about careful balance.' This can mean, for example, staying away from five-centimeter skinny ties. While common in the 1960s, they are most commonly associated these days with emo-rockers like Green Day.

Indeed today, simply having a well-cut suit with no frills makes a statement. Mr. Newton of P. Johnson says that 'to wear a suit now is bucking the trend' because 'Friday casual and branded sportswear no longer says much of someone being an individual and comfortable in their role.'

Kristiano Ang

男式成衣如何穿出好品位？

2011年 03月 28日 07:46

在

休闲服和袋型常服流行了二十年之后，从2000年以来出现了定制服装潮。在《广告狂人》(Mad Men)这类大获成功的时装剧的推动下，英国著名裁缝街萨维尔街(Savile Row)的裁缝店称，过去十年的业务量有了显著的增长。

Scott Olson / Getty Images

但是，从这条街上有名的裁缝店定制一套西服至少要花费2500英镑(约合4000美元)，而从美国服装零售商J. Crew 那里购买一套上衣加长裤的套装只需600美元，这样看来，有品位的着装似乎是一种难以承受的奢侈品。其实，从大批量生产的成衣中选择穿戴也未必就会导致你成为一个着装品味糟糕的男士。

伦敦男装店Trunk Clothiers 的董事总经理麦茨•克林伯格(Mats Klingberg)称，成为穿衣专家的一个标志是对自己的身体外形有着深刻的了解。由于成衣是为大众设计的，这就意味着找到一个好的改衣裁缝至关重要。

将袖子修改到合适状态尤其重要；太长的袖子会使人看起来邋遢。澳大利亚裁缝店P. Johnson 的伊森•纽顿(Ethan Newton)称，如果一件花9000美元买来的上衣袖子长了两英寸，就会使这件衣服看起来只值90美元。他的解释是：无论你愿意为一套成衣花费多少钱，至少要准备购衣款的20%作为修改费用。

当然，如果你只修改衬衣袖子的长度，就用不了那么多钱。在新加坡裁缝店Iris Tailor，将一件Z Zegna 衬衣的袖子剪短三英寸只需花费15新元(约合12美元)，大约是衬衣价格的7%。

领带及围巾制造商Drakes London的创意总监迈克尔•希尔(Michael Hill)称，合适的尺寸对领带来说也很重要。他认为领带能够突显一个人的个性。大多数领带的宽度在七到九厘米之间，他建议拥有中等体型的男士们避开最宽的那种领带，选择七到八厘米的领带比较合适。

对于个头较高的男士来说，领带的长度可能是个难题：Drakes 店中领带的标准长度是147厘米，当他们系好领带后，剩余的长度可能过短。这些男士可能会发现在领带上多花些钱是值得的，尽管他们穿的是普通的成衣。希尔称，Drakes 既出售批量生产的领带，也出售定制领带，店中所制领带最长可以达到180厘米。Drakes 定制领带的起价为125英镑(约合203美元)，客户一次最少要定制三条。

为西服套装选择合适的配饰也会使你更容易从人群中脱颍而出。尤其是口袋方巾可以使人看起来更有情趣。香港男装店The Armoury 的联合创办人马克•曹(Mark Cho )称，一条基本款的白色亚麻口袋方巾永远是男士们可以信赖的选择，总是可以为你的全套行头加分。

当然，你首先得把它正确地叠好。马克•曹建议，丝质口袋方巾可以叠成蓬松式或反向蓬松式，但棉麻质地的方巾最好是折成扁平的三角形塞入口袋，仅露出方巾的一角，这种折法叫做“电视机折”，因为折出来的形状类似于一台电视机。

在使用配饰前了解材质也会对造型有所説明。马克•曹建议将塑胶纽扣改为天然牛角扣，这样能使西服看起来更高档一些。希尔称，使用优质材料制作的领带（例如一条50盎司重的Royal Twill软绸领带）会使整身行头看起来很特别。他解释说，尽管表面看起来很简单，但这种织法的布料一旦被纯手工打造成领带，看起来将会非常特别。

然而，在使用配饰时要避免过度滥用。据萨维尔街裁缝店Norton & Sons的老板派翠克•格兰特(Patrick Grant)称，即使是定制服装也不应该过分追求奇巧花哨。最近被提名为2010年英国男装年度设计师的格兰特说，良好的着装并不意味着什么都敢穿，而是要达到一种细致的平衡，例如，要避开只有5厘米宽的超细领带。虽然这种领带在二十世纪六十年代很常见，但当时也主要是被绿日(Green Day)这类情绪摇滚乐队所采用。

事实上在现如今，简简单单地穿着一件剪裁合体、没有褶皱的西服就能体现出一个人的穿衣品味了。P. Johnson的纽顿说，现在穿西服是一种反潮流的行为，因为对一些人来说，周五穿名牌休闲运动服不再能充分体现出个性，不再令他们感到满足。 

一生可以拥有的25件奢侈品

一生可以拥有的25件奢侈品，你拥有了多少？
1 能背著包包走天下的健康。
2 舒心的工作 。
3 起风的天总有人提醒你加衣。
4 睡著的时候总有人为你盖被。
5 穿上便宜T恤也很美丽的健康身材夕。
6 写得一手好字。
7 想旅行时，总有谈得来的朋友愿意请假陪伴。
8 每天都能踏实地睡个好觉。
9 会欣赏美丽的心和能欣赏美丽的心情。
10 每时每刻都过得有意义和幸福。
11 一个教会你爱和被爱的人。
12 你为之甘心付出的伴侣。
13 心中永远的自由。
14 带给他人向上的精神特质。
15 学会放弃。
16 学会承受。
17 接受并珍惜上天赐予你的一切。
18 亲自播种，收穫。
19 珍藏一件凝聚情感的物品。
20 寻找失落的童心。
21 心境开阔。
22 信守一个诺言。
23 尝尽有益健康的美食。
24 偶尔使个小小坏
25 把你所能想到的一件浪漫的事变为现实。

How to Stay Cool in a Suit in Summer 夏日清凉商务着装攻略

2011年 05月 11日 07:37
With summer approaching, it can be tempting to cast off your jacket and tie.

This is especially true in Asia, where humidity levels often top 90%. 'Dry heat is usually not a problem,' says Mats Klingberg of Trunk Clothiers, a London menswear shop, '[But] humidity makes it next to impossible [to look] crisp.'

Here's how to look cool in the heat.

The right kind of fabric. Technology has made this task easier, says fashion historian G. Bruce Boyer. Today, there are 'hundreds of tropical-weight worsteds to choose from.'

The Italian label Ermenegildo Zegna, for instance, has developed a 'Cool Effect' fabric made of Australian superfine wool that offers protection against the sun's rays. The material has an exclusive finishing and dyeing process that enables dark fabrics to have almost the same reflective properties as white material. It was used to make casual blazers, formal suits and trousers in the Zegna spring/summer 2011 collection.

Even traditional fabric houses such as London's Holland & Sherry, established in 1836, are getting into the act. Mr. Boyer is a fan of Holland & Sherry's new 7.5-ounce wool worsted cloth, which he says is 'incredibly light and airy, yet very wrinkle resistant.'

Lightweight material such as seersucker, linen and cotton are also popular fabrics in hot weather. Indeed, Mr. Boyer, whose book 'Gary Cooper: An Enduring Style' will be published in October, calls them the 'dominant cloths' of summer suits. But he cautions those who work in conservative environments: While these fabrics can be beautiful, they also have a propensity to wrinkle.

For shirts, cotton is the material of choice. Mark Cho, co-founder of the Armoury, a menswear shop in Hong Kong, recommends trying out cotton in pinpoint weaves that are 'lightly woven and have a bit of texture.' While poplin is a popular choice, Mr. Cho says that the tightly woven cotton may 'stick to the skin a little too easily.'

Skip the lining. While the lining of a jacket helps it sit better on the body, additional layers will cause you to sweat more, and in sweltering Asian climes, says Mr. Cho, 'every little bit counts.' Check out half-lined or quarter-lined jackets, where only the interior fronts of the jacket are covered, or go with one that's completely unlined.

Mr. Cho's store stocks several unlined sport jackets that cost between 18,000 Hong Kong dollars and 20,000 Hong Kong dollars (US$2,300 to US$2,600) from Italian clothiers, such as Liverano & Liverano and La vera Sartoria Napoletana. The store also has a two-piece unlined spring/summer suit from Japanese maker Ring Jacket for HK$9,900.

Keep accessories light. Mr. Boyer says double-shirt cuffs, double-breasted jackets, and thick neckwear should be avoided. Consider an unlined bow tie instead.

On your feet, single-sole shoes in lightweight leather help tremendously, says Mr. Boyer.

Also, consider footwear like loafers, split-toe derbies (shoes with open lacing) and brogues in lighter colors, which Mr. Cho says offer a 'good alternative to the traditional blacks and browns' of winter.

At the end of the day though, simply minimizing your time outdoors is one strategy. Mr. Klingberg, of Trunk Clothiers in London, advises keeping an extra shirt in your briefcase and moist facial tissues.

When you have to go out, walking on the shady side of the street also helps.

Kristiano Ang

夏

天正款款走来，你可能很想脱下西装，扯掉领带。

在亚洲尤其如此，因为这里的湿度往往高达90%。伦敦Trunk Clothiers男装店的麦茨•克林伯格(Mats Klingberg)说，“干燥炎热的气候通常没问题，但湿热让人很难显得干爽利落。”

下面是几个让人在炎热天气中依然保持清爽外型的小窍门。

1、选对面料。时尚历史学家布鲁斯•伯伊尔(G. Bruce Boyer)说，技术进步已让这个选择变得更简单，“现在有数百种热带专用精纺面料可供选择”。

举例而言，意大利男装品牌杰尼亚(Ermenegildo Zegna)研发出一种名为“清凉效果”(Cool Effect)的面料，用澳洲超细羊毛制成，能抵挡灼人阳光的侵扰。该面料有独特的加工和染色流程，能让深色纤维具备几乎等同于白色纤维的光线反射效果。在杰尼亚2011年春夏款新品中，该面料被用于休闲西装和正式套装上。

甚至连创立于1836年的伦敦Holland & Sherry等老牌面料商也开始加入这一行列。伯伊尔很喜欢Holland & Sherry新推出的7.5盎司精纺羊毛面料，说它“轻薄透气得不可思议，同时还非常抗皱。”

泡泡纱、亚麻和棉布等轻薄面料也很适合炎热的天气。伯伊尔写的《加里•库柏：经久不衰的风格》(Gary Cooper: An Enduring Style)一书将于2011年10月出版，他在书中把这些面料称为夏季西装的“主流面料”，但也警告那些在保守办公环境下工作的人小心选择，因为这些面料虽然看上去很美，但容易起皱。

就衬衫而言，棉布是首选。香港Armoury男装店的共同创始人马克•曹(Mark Cho)建议尝试一下“轻纺并有一点纹理感”的针织棉。虽然府绸很受欢迎，但马克说这种重纺棉可能“有点太容易贴住皮肤了”。

2、不要衬里。马克说，衬里能让便服西装更贴身，但在亚洲酷热地带，多一层衬里会让人出更多的汗，因此“布料能少则少”。建议选择半夹里或四分之一夹里的，它们只在上衣前片的内侧有衬里，或干脆完全没有任何衬里。

马克的店里有几款无衬里的运动型便服西装，售价在18,000港币到20,000港币之间（约2,300美元到2,600美元），都是意大利品脾，如Liverano & Liverano和La vera Sartoria Napoletana。该店还有日本品牌Ring Jacket的两件套无衬里春夏款西装，售价9,900港币。

3、服饰简洁。伯伊尔建议避免穿双袖衬衫和双排扣上衣，太厚的领带也不适合，还是改戴无里布的蝶形领结为好。

伯伊尔说，至于鞋子，轻质的单底皮鞋会让人感觉很清爽。

此外，也可以考虑颜色较淡的浅口便鞋、德比鞋和镂花皮鞋，马克说这些是“替换掉冬天传统黑色和褐色皮鞋的很好选择”。

不过，话说回来，夏日炎炎时尽量减少户外时间也是个不错的策略。伦敦Trunk Clothiers男装店的克林伯格建议，在公事包里多放上一件衬衫和一些湿纸巾。

实在得外出的话，走在没有阳光直射的道路一侧也能起到一些作用。