这一带最棒的去处是一家名叫Hair of the Dog的酒馆。除供应Guinness黑啤酒外,这家酒馆还有一台投币式自动唱机,所以除了满大街都在放的凯蒂•佩里(Katy Perry)和蕾蒂•嘎嘎(Lady Gaga)的歌,你可以在这里听些其他的音乐。广受外籍人士欢迎的Ned Kelly's Last Stand总是有现场爵士乐表演。年轻人喜欢在对面二层的古巴主题酒吧Castro's里消磨时光。Phonograph挤满了当地的时尚人士,这是九龙会播放电台司令乐队(Radiohead)整张专辑的少数几个酒吧之一,酒吧供应Yakult制成的特色饮料,Yakult是一种酸奶味的日本奶制饮品。
Eight years or so ago, I walked for the first time into the Parisian Latin quarter boutique of superstar pastry chef Pierre Hermé and asked for one of my favourite cakes – a coffee éclair. “I’m terrible sorry,” said the nice young man behind the counter. “Coffee éclairs are not in our current collection.” I left a little dejected.
大约八年前,我生平第一次惠顾顶级糕点师皮埃尔•艾尔梅(Pierre Hermé)开在巴黎拉丁区(the Parisian Latin quarter)的甜点店,想要一份我最爱吃的咖啡爱克力蛋糕(coffee éclair)。“很对不起”,柜台后的年轻伙计彬彬有礼地对我说。“咖啡爱克力蛋糕如今不在我们的糕点名录中。”我略显失望。
The other day I went to visit Hermé in the elegant town house he has converted into his office and workshop in the more subdued but equally fashionable bit of the 17th arrondissement near the Parc Monceau. The Rue Fortuny is filled with history. Edmond Rostand, author of Cyrano de Bergerac, lived here. So did Marcel Pagnol, the Marseille novelist and playwright, and Caroline Otero, one of the Belle Epoque queens of the Parisian night whose breasts are said to have inspired the two cupolas on top of the Carlton Hotel in Cannes.
前几天,我去拜访艾尔梅先生,地点就在他城中豪宅内,他把它改成了办公室兼操作间,地处蒙索公园(Parc Monceau)不远处第十七区(17th Arrondissement)很不张扬但又颇为时尚的区域。福图尼街(The Rue Fortuny)具有深厚的历史底蕴。《大鼻子情圣》(Cyrano de Bergerac)的作者艾德蒙德•罗斯丹(Edmond Rostand)曾居住于此,来自马赛的作家兼剧作家马塞尔•帕尼奥尔(Marcel Pagnol)与卡罗琳•欧特侯(Caroline Otero)也曾住于此,卡罗琳•欧特侯是19世纪末20世纪初巴黎“美丽年代”(Belle époque)时期夜生活中的交际名媛,据说戛纳卡尔顿酒店(Carlton Hotel in Cannes)顶上两座圆屋顶的设计灵感正是来自她那一对酥胸。
It seemed a fitting setting for a creative talent of Hermé’s calibre. After all, this son of an Alsatian baker, who started making cakes with his father when he was only nine, has been at the vanguard of turning pastry into the culinary equivalent of haute couture.
Now 50, Hermé trained under the late Gaston Lenôtre, the Paul Bocuse of pastry and Hermé’s greatest influence. “He made me start from zero, teaching me the importance of quality, rigour, organisation, and the attention to detail.” He then went to work for Fauchon, the luxury grocer in the Place de la Madeleine, and later at Ladurée, which was famous for its macarons, though Hermé has since developed them into an even finer art.
今年50岁的艾尔梅曾师从已故贾斯通•雷诺特(Gaston Lenôtre),贾斯通•雷诺特被誉为甜点界的保尔•博古兹(Paul Bocuse),(编者著:保尔•博古兹是法国名厨),对艾尔梅的影响最大。“他从头开始一点点教我,教会我质量至上、一丝不苟、井然有序以及精益求精。”他随后来到位于玛德莲娜广场(Place de la Madeleine)的奢侈果蔬店馥颂(Fauchon)工作,之后又到以马卡龙甜点知名的拉度雷(Ladurée)店高就,尽管之后艾尔梅把甜点的制作工艺日臻完美。
Then, in the 1990s he met Charles Znaty, an advertising and marketing expert. The two became friends and business partners – they share the same office – and Znaty persuaded the chef to establish what he calls “une grande maison de luxe à la française” to revolutionise the world of traditional pastry. Hermé has since adopted the techniques of the fashion business so successfully that he is known as “the Dior of desserts”, “the Picasso of pastry-making”, “the virtuoso of sugar”, the “Kitchen Emperor”, and “the Hermès of macarons”.
For all these lofty epithets, Hermé was not the intimidating and capricious personality that I first imagined. Far from it. Yes he is a large individual, who clearly enjoys his food and wine and his own cream cakes. But he is soft spoken and has the gentle eyes of a great big cuddly teddy bear. I could not resist telling him my disappointing coffee éclair experience. “Oh dear, we did do four annual collections in those days: summer, autumn, winter and spring. But since 2006 we have moved on and we now constantly adapt and change our range of pastries, biscuits, chocolates, jams, pâtes de fruits every month.”
Such constant innovation is increasingly the norm, though the pressure doesn’t seem to bother Hermé. If anything, he appears to enjoy the challenge. As we talk, he asks me to try a lemon sable. “The lemons come from Menton, some of the best. The juice and the rind give the biscuit its tang. As for the texture, it is all a question of how it is baked.” I then get a glimpse of his passion for his craft. He jumps up, disappears into the next room, and comes back with a new “discovery”.
“This is Peruvian pepper, it is simply delicious and I am going to use it in a new creation,” he says, tossing me a couple of peppercorns to taste. “I found it in Verona where there is a fellow who sells the best peppers in the world. I’ve just cleared out all the pepper I had for this.”
No less significant is his realisation that sugar, like pepper, is no more than a “seasoning” – albeit a crucial one – for all his sweet creations. “I have made a rupture,” he says, because he “no longer considers sugar the spinal cord of pastry.”
He also uses olive oil for his “huile d’olive à la mandarine” macaron. A few months ago, he was in Spain drinking an Americano – a cocktail of Campari, sweet vermouth and club soda – before dinner. “In a flash I thought this would make a perfect macaron”, he says. And so, since October, his boutiques in France, Japan, and London have been selling an Americano Pamplemousse, a delicate pink macaron combining orange, pink grapefruit and Campari.
His most famous creation is undoubtedly the Ispahan rose, raspberry and lychee macaron cake that he likes to describe as “my Chanel tailleur”. Like many fashion designers, he has adapted this bestseller into an endless range of accessories including an Ispahan croissant, a jam, a pâte de fruit, yoghurt, a chocolate, and many other variants.
He also works like a top couturier by first designing his new creations on paper and then testing them in his penthouse atelier. There, on a shelf, are not only cookery books but also biographies of Karl Lagerfeld, Yves St Laurent and Jean-Paul Gaultier – the “unofficial ones because they are far more interesting”.
他的工作流程与顶级女装设计师相似,先是在图纸上构思出新产品,再在自己屋顶工作室里反复试验。工作室的书架上,不但有各种烹饪书,还有卡尔•拉格菲尔德(Karl Lagerfeld)、伊夫圣洛朗以及让•保罗•高缇耶(Jean Paul Gaultier)等人的传记——都是些“让人欲罢不能、离经叛道的设计师”。
Once tested and approved, the recipes are then sent out by computer to his executive chefs in Japan, London and France for execution.
一旦试验好并经认可,配方就由电脑发送至日本、伦敦以及巴黎各分店的首席糕点师,再由他们付诸实施。
Hermé and Znaty now run a little epicurean empire employing around 400 people with a turnover of about €30m a year. They are thinking of expanding their culinary “maison” in the US and China to turn it into an even more globally recognised luxury brand. And to achieve this, Hermé has now branched out into the ultimate of haute couture – creating exclusive bespoke cakes and patisseries for individual clients.
These clients – among them former James Bond girl Carole Bouquet and IMF managing director Christine Lagarde – meet up for lunch with the pastry artist in his atelier in Rue Fortuny and discuss what they want. He then draws up a number of suggestions and they can pick and choose. “Ms Bouquet loved all three proposals and decided she wanted them all,” Hermé smiled. “And we had an English captain of business who flew in with his private jet to choose his cake. You know, we then produce that specific cake or patisserie for that client alone whenever he wants it.”
这些客户(其中包括前邦女郎(James Bond girl)卡洛尔•布盖(Carole Bouquet)以及国际货币基金组织(IMF)总裁拉加德(Christine Lagarde))会来到艾尔梅位于福图尼街的甜点店,向他讨教午餐该吃啥。艾尔梅会推荐几样东西,由对方挑选定夺。“拉加德女士对我推荐的三样甜品都喜欢,于是她一股脑儿全要了,”艾尔梅笑着说。“我们有位客户是英国的商界巨擘,他开着自己的私人飞机前来挑选自己中意的蛋糕。于是乎,任何时候只要客户有需要,我们就会专门为他制作好那种甜饼或蛋糕。”
Yet isn’t it all frightfully expensive? After all these are not simply puddings, pastries and confectioneries. They are luxury goods.
然而,这岂不是太过昂贵了?毕竟这些东西不是一般的布丁、甜点或者糖果,他们是奢侈食品。
“It is not cheap,” Hermé admits with a twinkle in his soft eyes. “But you know, someone quite modest came along and ordered such a cake for his old mother.”
Separate the whites from the yolks. Weigh out the necessary quantity of egg whites into two bowls. Cover the bowls with cling film. Using the point of a sharp knife, pierce the film with holes. It is best to prepare the egg whites several days in advance, preferably a week, so that they “liquefy” and lose their elasticity. Set the bowls aside in the fridge.
Make sure you weigh out 250g of juice when you strain the fresh passion fruit. You can sometimes find frozen passion fruit juice in delicatessens. Check that it contains no more than 5 per cent sugar.
Bring the water and sugar to boil at 118C. When the syrup reaches 115C, simultaneously start whisking the second portion of liquefied egg whites to soft peaks.
When the sugar reaches 118C, pour it over the egg whites. Whisk and allow the meringue to cool down to 50C, then fold it into the ground almond-icing sugar mixture. Spoon the batter into a piping bag fitted with a plain nozzle. Pipe rounds of batter about 3.5 cm in diameter, spacing them 2cm apart on baking trays lined with baking parchment. Cover your work surface with a kitchen cloth and rap the baking trays on it. Using a sieve, sprinkle the shells with a light dusting of cocoa powder. Leave the shells to stand for at least 30 minutes until they form a skin.
Preheat the fan oven to 180C then put the trays in the oven. Bake for 12 minutes quickly opening and shutting the oven door twice during cooking time. Out of the oven, slide the shells on to the work surface.
We love Shenzhen. This city of more than 14 million people has long been considered a playground for Hongkongers, where you can haggle over handbags, spend the day getting your nails done, and (if you’re a spiky haired teenager) party the weekend away in one of the city’s many vast nightclubs. But there’s much more to it than triple A-grade copies. With its world-class galleries and several artist villages ranging from original works to top-quality reproductions, there’s tons of culture to be found in the SEZ. Shoppers looking for something far removed from train station squabbles should check out the mega malls, offering everything from homewares to electronics. Regardless of whether you want to hit the spas or try some of the impressive cuisine from all over China, you’ll find it all in our guide to Shenzhen.
1. Clamber around on a decommisioned Soviet aircraft carrier
Minsk World
Fans of military history should definitely make a trip out to Minsk World, arguably one of the strangest theme parks you’re likely to find in Shenzhen—and trust us, that’s saying something. Minsk is the name of an old Soviet-era aircraft carrier, which is now docked here as a permanent exhibition space, showcasing various artifacts such as planes, helicopters and PLA machinery. Visitors are free to roam around the flight deck and on certain floors of the vessel. For a small fee, you can even take a boat ride round the starboard side to get a glimpse of The Minsk in all its glory. Staff march around dressed in military-like uniforms, and will stage musical performances throughout the day. Jinrong Rd, Shatoujiao, 0755-2535-5333, http://www.szminsk.com/
2. Get lost in geek heaven
SEG Electronic Market
SEG is the biggest electronics mall in the area. Be warned that means there’ll be a lot of hawkers out front determined to sell you their pirated software and laptops. Once inside, you’ll find a large variety of more genuine products mostly divided by floors. The first two sell electronic components like switches, tapes and conductors – so stay away unless you’re a serious nerd or in the business. Instead, head up to the third to eighth floors for laptops and computer accessories like hard drives, memory sticks, GPS receivers and MP3 players. On the fourth floor, you’ll find products from big brand names like Samsung and Sony. Be warned: they aren’t necessarily as cheap as those in Hong Kong—some may even be more expensive now considering the rising value of the Yuan. Don’t forget to bargain, bargain, bargain. 46 Huaqiang Bei Lu, Futian
3. Actually walk on some grass
Fairy Lake (Xianhu) Botanical Garden
Beyond the towering shopping malls of Luohu, much of Shenzhen is actually very green and beautiful. For just RMB 20, you can spend the day at one of the city’s best parks. Pack a picnic and wander through the picturesque gardens; cross the Chinese bridges the span the lakes; meander through the labyrinth and gawk at the hundreds of bursting blooms in the orchid garden. Best yet, you can pay homage to one of China’s greatest leader, Deng Xiaoping, by paying a visit to the tree he planted to honor the opening of the park. A stroll around the expansive park hand-in-hand is definitely a treat for couples—no wonder why there’s no shortage of wedding photo shoots here. Fairy Lake Botanical Garden (Xianhu Zhiwuyuan), No.160 Liantangxianhu Rd., 0755-2573- 8430
4. Trick out your house
Century Furnishings Central Mall
Interior furnishing and furniture fans will enjoy a trip to this sprawling complex of strip malls, split into A, B and C areas (each area is as humongous as our Convention Centre in Wan Chai, so happy walking). Peruse the showrooms of furniture styles, from quaint American country to gaudy, gilt-painted monstrosities straight out of Louis XVI’s palace. For Asian-influenced pieces, there’s everything from antique Qing to modern Chinese minimalism. There are door handles in one wing, ceramic tiles in another. Want Egyptian hieroglyphics on your wall, or a bathroom like a Ming tomb? It’s all there (made in Shandong though). Area C, with all the remarkable designer knockoff lamps, is especially popular with the locals. A word of caution though: while the selection is unrivalled, it’s not particularly cheap. You have been warned. Shennan Dalu, Futian District, 0755-8731-0111, www.sz-sjzx.com.
Near the Xiangmihu metro station
5. Soak up some culture
OCT Art & Design Gallery
A quintessential part of the OCT Contemporary Art Terminal (O-CAT), this gallery is located right next to the renowned He Xiangning Art Museum. The 3,000 square-meter space, with a modern exterior made of hexagonal glass steel, was renovated from an old warehouse, and is one of China’s most prominent venues to showcase cutting-edge design ideas. Its current creative exhibition, “What’s Next 30×30,” features more than 30 artists and designers including Stefan Sagmeister (Austria), Tsai Ming-liang (Taiwan) and Hong Kong’s Anothermountainman (aka Kung Chi-shing) will run till May 25. 9009 Shennan Rd., Overseas Chinese Town, Nanshan District, 0755-3399-3222, www.oct-and.com
6. Be the boy in the bubble
Shenzhen Culture Park
Like many, we’ve always wondered what it would be like to be a hamster. Hoist yourself into a giant inflatable bubble and run around on the lake at the Shenzhen Culture Park, and afterwards, solemnly vow never to put your pet into a transparent ball again. Shenzhen Culture Park, Renmin Gongyuan Lu
7. Take a walk along the beaten path
Dongmen Shopping District
For many, the Dongmen shopping district is the only reason to come to Shenzhen. Established 300 years ago and therefore also known as “Laojie” (meaning Old Street—hence the name of the metro station nearby). It’s one of the best places for cheap tech and has a thriving market in DVDs and console games of dubious origins: just USD$0.75 for major console games, and USD$0.90 for a DVD. The next question is whether you can get your bounty back across the border, especially now that police have stepped up custom checks. The choice is yours.
8. Enjoy a little slice of Europe
OCT East
You could lose yourself for days at OCT East—a massive entertainment theme park covering over nine kilometers of lush greenery in Dameisha, a beachy resort town in eastern Shenzhen. Combining two theme parks, three “scenic” towns recreating historical European townships (hence the full name: Overseas Chinese Town), and four resort hotels, a temple and an ancient Mandarin mansion to boot—it’s easy to see why families spend entire weeklong holidays here. For a break from the kiddie rides and swan-shaped paddle boats, go for a game of golf at one of the two 18-hole golf courses, take a dip in the onsite hot springs or unwind with a steaming cup of Chinese tea at one of the many pavilions surrounded by a tea plantation inside the Tea Stream Resort Valley. OCT East, East Dameisha, Yantian District, 0755-8888-9888, http://www.octeast.com/
9. Relax a bit
Shenzhen Lizhi Gongyuan (Lychee Park)
Shenzhen Lizhi Gongyuan is a quiet botanical oasis in the middle of the city, famed for its beautiful lychee trees and scenic landscapes. Themed gardens, majestic pavilions and lush greenery dot this sprawling park, which is home to more than 30 different species of pretty plants. Besides the plump and juicy lychee trees, you’ll also be able to find ferns and cocoa plants at Lizhi Gongyuan. The gorgeous Lake Lihu is accessible at the southern edges of the park, with quaint little bridges and pathways built across. Lizhi Gongyuan is a breath of fresh air after a tiring shopping excursion, or even a reason on its own for a visit to the city. 1001 Hongling Zhong Lu, Futian District, 0755-8209 5655
10. Sink a couple of pitchers
The Kingway Beer Garden
Local beer Kingway is brewed in Shenzhen, and unusually for a Chinese beer, a) there’s no formaldehyde in it and b) it’s drinkable. And at this open-air beer garden behind the brewery itself, the beer is sold by the pitcher, and incredibly cheap. It’s a beer garden-cum-hawker center, with some decent basic food available to those who want it – but the beer definitely takes pride of place in between the satay sticks and the dice games. If you stay late enough, it’s a sure bet that your drunker-than-you neighbors will come over and start toasting you for any reason at all. Getting there is a taxi ride and a bit of luck, as it’s actually in a large open space surrounded by buildings, but go down the alley to get there and you’ll see a motley collection of chefs shucking the scallops you’re about to eat. 1 Buxin Dongchang Lu, Luohu, 0755-2551-6328
11. Ride the rollercoasters
Happy Valley
Shenzhen’s answer to Ocean Park, Happy Valley is a massive amusement park divided into nine zones: Sunshine Beach, Shangri-La Woods, Typhoon Bay, Goldmine Town, Playa Maya Water Park (open in the summer only), Happy Times, Mount Adventure, Spanish Square and Cartoon City. There are more than 100 amusements here, including several large rides that are not for the faint-hearted—many of which have been brought in from overseas. Our personal favorite is the river rapids ride, where you don a raincoat and get pelted with other visitors armed with water cannons as you pass by. There’re also the obligatory street-side performances to watch out for, including acrobatics, extreme sports, break dancing and magic displays. Entrance is RMB170 for adults and RMB85 for children over 1.1 meters tall. Kids shorter than that go in for free. Overseas Chinese Town, Nanshan District, 0755-2694-9184, sz.happyvalley.cn
12. Learn some history
Splendid China Folk Village
At the 30-hectare Splendid China Folk Village, you’ll be able to see China’s cultural treasures in miniature version, all in one place and ready for you to explore at RMB120. Reduced at a scale of roughly 15:1, the replicas of landmarks such as the Great Wall of China, the Forbidden City and the Imperial Palace are now conveniently available in Shenzhen’s own Futian district. Tombs, caves and even Buddha structures from different corners of the country are also on display. Apart from the Miniature Park, Splendid China also houses a Chinese Folk Culture Village showcasing the country’s 56 different ethnic groups. Each group is represented by a beautiful village, and there are dance and music shows daily in each village given by authentic ethnic performers. Overseas Chinese Town, Nanshan District, 0755-2660-6526, www.cn5000.com.cn
13. Unwind at a mega-spa
Water Cube
Move over Queen Spa: the biggest and brightest relaxation venue in Shenzhen’s formidable lineup of mammoth massage parlors is the Water Cube. Located right next to Lok Ma Chau station, Water Cube offers a full range of spa treatments and facilities, all in brand spanking new and (relatively) classy surroundings. Relax in the vast indoor Jacuzzi, take a private bath or simply go for a foot massage. You can even get your hair cut, enjoy a round of mahjong, have a full-on Chinese banquet or even shoot some pool—all while wearing a snazzy set of PJs, of course. 1-6/F, Gangchenghuating Building, Yunong Village, Futian District, 0755-8329-6666, http://www.slfspa.com/
14. Get your drink on
Coco Park Bar Street
A shopping complex in the city center, Coco Park is one of the hippest spots in town. Besides countless shops and restaurants, the entire east side of Coco is a bar street with massive open-air drinking areas, popular among youngsters and expats in town. You’ll have no problem finding bars of different styles and vibes; get some friends together and there will be a sizzling party that goes from a quiet post-dinner catch-up to after-midnight mayhem. Fuhua 3rd Rd., Futian District
15. Get a portrait
Dafen Art Village
If your walls at home are looking plain and drab, forget the generic “pebble” paintings you get in Ikea—hop in a cab and head out to the Dafen Art Village. Consisting of several blocks lined with galleries and workshops (some of which serve excellent coffee), this is the place to come for oil paintings for just about any occasion. You’ll find many reproductions of modern Chinese artworks (some wouldn’t look out of place in a Hollywood Road gallery) as well as abstract pieces, replicas of works by everyone from Da Vinci to Liechtenstein, paintings suitable for kids’ bedrooms and landscapes—in short, there’s something for just about everyone. Don’t see something you like? You can have a painting commissioned based on a photograph or picture. Always wanted a six-foot high painting of yourself riding a horse? Here’s where you’re gonna get it. Prices are extremely reasonable too—we decorated our whole house with paintings from here—some of them four-foot high—for just RMB900. Longgang, Buji (say “Dafen Youhua Cuun” to your taxi driver; it should take about half an hour from Luohu in a cab)
16. Go nuts for knickknacks
Light Industrial Products City (Yizhan Centre)
Give your home a revamp by heading to mega mall complex Yizhan Centre for some stylish knickknacks and decorative items. These large multi-level shopping towers have virtually everything, from cushions, lamps, crockery and accessories to whimsical pieces, such as a life-sized horse sculpture donning a lampshade as a hat. There’s one floor dedicated to top-quality silk flowers; another to vases and other pieces that wouldn’t look out of place in Indigo. Be sure to keep your eye on the prize because you can easily get lost in the maze of shops. Unlike Luohu, shopkeepers here are much more friendly and easygoing, but be sure to haggle down inflated prices. For the best way to get there, join a daytime shopping tours organized by the Australian Association of Hong Kong (www.ozhongkong.com, 2530-4461). They start the journey from a meeting point in Central and shuttles shoppers directly to the house wares district (near Liyuan Lu and Meiyuan Road) by coach. If you’re done with the decor, the Association also offers organized tours for Dafen Artist Village. Besides picking up a trolley full of goodies for the house, there’ll also be some lovely ladies to spend the day with. Yizhan Centre, Meiyuan Rd., Luohu District, www.yizhanzx.com
Dine in a swanky restaurant
The importance of Shenzhen as an economic hub has seen an explosion of high-end hotels in the past few years. With the hotels come world-class restaurants where you can treat yourself after a long day trudging around the city. Here are some of our favorites.
17. Belle-Vue
This restaurant is all about the gorgeous view (the “Belle-Vue,” if you will). This European restaurant has two separate areas, The Living Room and The Library, which are a bastion of Grand Hyatt luxury in the middle of Shenzhen; chefs can prepare your meal tableside at one of their cooking stations, and, this being China and all, there is a wide range of wines to choose from to impress your guests. Alternatively, end your weekend on a high note with a luxurious Sunday champagne brunch. Made-to-order, chefs bring delectable dishes, like their sinfully creamy lobster bisque, right to your table. 37/F, Grand Hyatt Shenzhen, 1881 Baoan Nan Rd., Luohu District, 0755 2218-7338
18. China Spice
At China Spice you’ll be able to find specialty dishes from each unique province in China and also fusion creations like Cantonese delicacies with a hint of Sichuan and Chiu Chow. Herbal and healthy medicinal soups are part of the restaurant’s prestigious repertoire, and you can enjoy them in a traditional or contemporary brew depending on your preference. Private dining rooms are available for intimate gatherings. 4/F, Four Points by Sheraton Shenzhen, 5 Guihua Rd., Futian District, 0755-8358-8655
19. Paletto
Enjoy this fine Italian dining experience in Ritz Carlton. Renowned Italian chef Massimo Miglietta cooks up authentic Italian dishes with a modern twist. Choose from a gourmet selection of antipasti, pizza, pasta, grilled seafood and a variety of regional dishes. You should try their two delicious features, wagyu beef tenderloin with black pepper crust, Savoy cabbage, sauteed and creamed potatoes, and the whole wheat chitarra spaghetti in lobster sauce, while you’re there. The restaurant is elegantly decorated with a contemporary touch. 2/F, Ritz Carlton Shenzhen, 116 Fuhua San Rd., Futian District, 0755 2222-2222
20. Shang Garden
Think bistro-style Cantonese dining in a comfortable and laid back atmosphere and you’ve got Shang Garden, Fu Tian Shangri-La’s pride and joy. Headed by chef Anthony Dong, the restaurant serves authentic Huaiyang and Cantonese fare such as their signature steamed egg white with crab roe and double-boiled beef soup with Chinese yam, medlar and red dates (we highly recommend the red dates stuffed with glutonous rice for dessert!). You’ll also be able to enjoy classic, all-you-can-eat dim sum for lunch or a-la-carte in the morning. Futian Shangri-La, 4088 Yi Tian Rd., Futian District, 0755-2151-3835