Sunday, January 8, 2012

Appreciating Kowloon for More Than Its View

The Backyard
位于朗豪酒店的The Backyard


那些熟谙香港的老外眼中,九龙最大的可取之处是能看到香港岛的美景。

Ozone
位于丽思卡尔顿酒店的Ozone酒吧
但这个连接香港和内地的小小半岛所拥有的不只是一个优越的位置。九龙通常都是熙攘喧闹的,尽管它素来被人们与露天市场和拥挤人流联系在一起,但在近几年也已经向高端迈进了一步。香港的商业中心依旧是香港岛,但九龙现在坐拥着许多最奢华的酒店,包括半岛酒店(Peninsula)和洲际酒店(InterContinental),这里还有香港最有意思的夜生活。

从位置最高的地方开始说起吧:环球贸易广场(International Commerce Centre)丽思卡尔顿酒店(Ritz-Carlton)118层。这里有Ozone酒吧,位于这个世界“最高”酒店以及香港最高建筑的顶层。丽思卡尔顿于2011年开业,在Ozone酒吧能享受到最接近于搭乘直升机鸟瞰维多利亚港(Victoria Harbour)的体验(真要想乘坐直升机当然也没问题,只要去半岛酒店就可以了)。

Ozone周一至周五营业至凌晨1点,所以你会看到很多在同一幢大楼低楼层工作的穿着套装的人,在浅酌慢品精心调制的昂贵的经典鸡尾酒。周五和周六晚营业至凌晨两点。

Cocky Bar
位于尖沙咀The One购物中心的嚣吧
同样能将港岛美景尽收眼底的一个相对实惠的去处是嚣吧(Cocky Bar),位于尖沙咀The One购物中心的18层。尖沙咀对岸就是中环。嚣吧虽然不如丽思卡尔顿高,但却是当地人约会的热门地点,他们喜欢在这里的室外天台欣赏日落。

晚餐可以在附近iSquare购物中心30层的南海一号(Nanhai No. 1)解决,这里供应的是融合了现代口味的粤菜。龙虾汤泡贵妃饭和羊肚菌炒扇贝等菜肴表明这里的主厨敢于突破传统。最新的《米其林指南》(Michelin Guide)将南海一号评为一星级餐厅,但是在这里订位并不需要等上漫长的两星期。

Nanhai No. 1
南海一号的龙虾汤泡贵妃饭。
购物是九龙的活力源泉,特别是旺角地区,它是全世界人口最密集的地方之一。游客蜂拥前往通菜街(Tung Choi Street)上狭窄拥挤的女人街(Ladies Market),但如果你不想找乙烯基材料的仿Prada钱包或荧光效果的Yankee棒球帽,那还是别去了。从佐敦道(Jordan Road)开始一直向北延伸的庙街(Temple Street)集市也算不上特别诱人(有人想买电子剃须刀和无跟短筒袜吗?),但路边摊和露天餐厅鳞次栉比的景象值得一观。继续向北到众坊街(Public Square Street)和庙街的街角,就到了当地算命摊位的聚集地,几十个算命先生热切地想要跟你谈谈你未来一年的爱情生活和投资回报。当然不是免费的,需要大概200港元的费用。

要在街上泡吧,不妨以赫德道(Hart Avenue)作为夜生活的起点或终点,这或许是九龙最声色犬马的一条街,酒吧随处可见,街上到处都是泡吧的客人。要见识当地人如何放松,就去一个名叫UFO的地下室酒吧:这里播放着刺耳的粤语流行歌,客人们一边玩着骰子,一边一杯接一杯地消耗着啤酒。

Vibes
如果喜欢安静,位于美丽华酒店的Vibes露天花园也是个好去处
这一带最棒的去处是一家名叫Hair of the Dog的酒馆。除供应Guinness黑啤酒外,这家酒馆还有一台投币式自动唱机,所以除了满大街都在放的凯蒂•佩里(Katy Perry)和蕾蒂•嘎嘎(Lady Gaga)的歌,你可以在这里听些其他的音乐。广受外籍人士欢迎的Ned Kelly's Last Stand总是有现场爵士乐表演。年轻人喜欢在对面二层的古巴主题酒吧Castro's里消磨时光。Phonograph挤满了当地的时尚人士,这是九龙会播放电台司令乐队(Radiohead)整张专辑的少数几个酒吧之一,酒吧供应Yakult制成的特色饮料,Yakult是一种酸奶味的日本奶制饮品。

如果喜欢安静,就去那些大酒店的户外雅座。旺角朗豪酒店(Langham Place)的The Backyard和位于美丽华酒店(Mira Hotel)五层的Vibes露天花园咖啡座拥有极其幽静的环境。你可以窝在沙发里,聆听都市的声音,啜饮一杯鸡尾酒放松身心,一边疑惑九龙何以会声名不佳。

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详情:

Ozone
西九龙柯士甸道西1号丽思卡尔顿酒店118楼

嚣吧
尖沙咀弥敦道100号The One 18楼

南海一号
弥敦道63号iSqure广场30层

The Backyard
上海街555号朗豪酒店

Vibes
弥敦道118号美丽华酒店5层

The Hair of the Dog
赫德道2A Supreme House

UFO
赫德道11号

Ned Kelly's Last Stand
亚士厘道11A

Castro's
亚士厘道16号

Phonograph
柯士甸道2号

Jason Chow

Friday, January 6, 2012

The Dior of desserts Pierre Herme

2011年12月30日 07:18 AM

艾尔梅的甜国帝国
The Dior of desserts



Eight years or so ago, I walked for the first time into the Parisian Latin quarter boutique of superstar pastry chef Pierre Hermé and asked for one of my favourite cakes – a coffee éclair. “I’m terrible sorry,” said the nice young man behind the counter. “Coffee éclairs are not in our current collection.” I left a little dejected.
大约八年前,我生平第一次惠顾顶级糕点师皮埃尔•艾尔梅(Pierre Hermé)开在巴黎拉丁区(the Parisian Latin quarter)的甜点店,想要一份我最爱吃的咖啡爱克力蛋糕(coffee éclair)。“很对不起”,柜台后的年轻伙计彬彬有礼地对我说。“咖啡爱克力蛋糕如今不在我们的糕点名录中。”我略显失望。
The other day I went to visit Hermé in the elegant town house he has converted into his office and workshop in the more subdued but equally fashionable bit of the 17th arrondissement near the Parc Monceau. The Rue Fortuny is filled with history. Edmond Rostand, author of Cyrano de Bergerac, lived here. So did Marcel Pagnol, the Marseille novelist and playwright, and Caroline Otero, one of the Belle Epoque queens of the Parisian night whose breasts are said to have inspired the two cupolas on top of the Carlton Hotel in Cannes.
前几天,我去拜访艾尔梅先生,地点就在他城中豪宅内,他把它改成了办公室兼操作间,地处蒙索公园(Parc Monceau)不远处第十七区(17th Arrondissement)很不张扬但又颇为时尚的区域。福图尼街(The Rue Fortuny)具有深厚的历史底蕴。《大鼻子情圣》(Cyrano de Bergerac)的作者艾德蒙德•罗斯丹(Edmond Rostand)曾居住于此,来自马赛的作家兼剧作家马塞尔•帕尼奥尔(Marcel Pagnol)与卡罗琳•欧特侯(Caroline Otero)也曾住于此,卡罗琳•欧特侯是19世纪末20世纪初巴黎“美丽年代”(Belle époque)时期夜生活中的交际名媛,据说戛纳卡尔顿酒店(Carlton Hotel in Cannes)顶上两座圆屋顶的设计灵感正是来自她那一对酥胸。
It seemed a fitting setting for a creative talent of Hermé’s calibre. After all, this son of an Alsatian baker, who started making cakes with his father when he was only nine, has been at the vanguard of turning pastry into the culinary equivalent of haute couture.
艾尔梅这种高水平的创意大师居住于此是再合适不过了。毕竟,这位阿尔萨斯面包师的儿子9岁时就开始跟着他的父亲学艺,并把甜点变成“餐饮界的高级时装”之翘楚。
Now 50, Hermé trained under the late Gaston Lenôtre, the Paul Bocuse of pastry and Hermé’s greatest influence. “He made me start from zero, teaching me the importance of quality, rigour, organisation, and the attention to detail.” He then went to work for Fauchon, the luxury grocer in the Place de la Madeleine, and later at Ladurée, which was famous for its macarons, though Hermé has since developed them into an even finer art.
今年50岁的艾尔梅曾师从已故贾斯通•雷诺特(Gaston Lenôtre),贾斯通•雷诺特被誉为甜点界的保尔•博古兹(Paul Bocuse),(编者著:保尔•博古兹是法国名厨),对艾尔梅的影响最大。“他从头开始一点点教我,教会我质量至上、一丝不苟、井然有序以及精益求精。”他随后来到位于玛德莲娜广场(Place de la Madeleine)的奢侈果蔬店馥颂(Fauchon)工作,之后又到以马卡龙甜点知名的拉度雷(Ladurée)店高就,尽管之后艾尔梅把甜点的制作工艺日臻完美。
Then, in the 1990s he met Charles Znaty, an advertising and marketing expert. The two became friends and business partners – they share the same office – and Znaty persuaded the chef to establish what he calls “une grande maison de luxe à la française” to revolutionise the world of traditional pastry. Hermé has since adopted the techniques of the fashion business so successfully that he is known as “the Dior of desserts”, “the Picasso of pastry-making”, “the virtuoso of sugar”, the “Kitchen Emperor”, and “the Hermès of macarons”.
到了上世纪90年代,他遇见了广告及营销高手夏尔•泽拿蒂(Charles Znaty),两人成为至交以及商业合伙人——他俩在同一办公室办公——泽拿蒂说服艾尔梅一起创办他所谓的“法式奢侈甜品屋”,对传统甜品来一次天翻地覆的革新。从此,艾尔梅把时装界的手法运用得炉火纯青,他被誉为“甜品界的迪奥”,“甜品界的毕加索”、“食糖艺术大师”、“厨房皇帝”以及“马卡龙大师艾尔梅”。
For all these lofty epithets, Hermé was not the intimidating and capricious personality that I first imagined. Far from it. Yes he is a large individual, who clearly enjoys his food and wine and his own cream cakes. But he is soft spoken and has the gentle eyes of a great big cuddly teddy bear. I could not resist telling him my disappointing coffee éclair experience. “Oh dear, we did do four annual collections in those days: summer, autumn, winter and spring. But since 2006 we have moved on and we now constantly adapt and change our range of pastries, biscuits, chocolates, jams, pâtes de fruits every month.”
尽管头项层层光环,但他并非如我想象中那样咄咄逼人与反复无常,他根本就不是这号人。但是,他个性十足,看得出来,他对美食、葡萄酒以及自己制作的奶油蛋糕自豪之情溢于言表。但他说话细声细气、眼神柔和得就象笑容可掬的玩具熊。我忍不住告诉了他8年前那次买咖啡爱克力蛋糕不愉快的经历。“哦,那时我们每年推出4大系列:春夏秋冬各一系列。但自从2006年后,我们不断与时俱进、推陈出新,如今每个月都要换甜点、饼干、巧克力、火腿以及水果软糖的花样。
Such constant innovation is increasingly the norm, though the pressure doesn’t seem to bother Hermé. If anything, he appears to enjoy the challenge. As we talk, he asks me to try a lemon sable. “The lemons come from Menton, some of the best. The juice and the rind give the biscuit its tang. As for the texture, it is all a question of how it is baked.” I then get a glimpse of his passion for his craft. He jumps up, disappears into the next room, and comes back with a new “discovery”.
这种不断推陈出新俨然已成为常态,虽说这样的压力似乎对他根本算不了什么,要说有的话,那就是他喜欢不断挑战自我。我们交谈的时候,他让我尝一下柠檬酥饼。“这柠檬产自Menton,质量上乘。汁与外皮赋予饼干特殊风味。至于纹理,则完全取决于如何烘烤。”接下来我算是有幸目睹他对这一行的执着与热爱。他突然起立,进到旁边的房间,随后拿来了他最新的“发现”。
“This is Peruvian pepper, it is simply delicious and I am going to use it in a new creation,” he says, tossing me a couple of peppercorns to taste. “I found it in Verona where there is a fellow who sells the best peppers in the world. I’ve just cleared out all the pepper I had for this.”
“这是秘鲁胡椒,味道无与伦比,我打算用到新开发的甜点中,”他说,并掷给我几个干胡椒让我尝一下。“我在维罗纳(Verona)碰到一个伙计,他卖的是全世界最上乘的胡椒。我刚弃用了其它品种,决定改用这种胡椒。”
No less significant is his realisation that sugar, like pepper, is no more than a “seasoning” – albeit a crucial one – for all his sweet creations. “I have made a rupture,” he says, because he “no longer considers sugar the spinal cord of pastry.”
更重要的是他意识到在所有的甜品中,糖与胡椒一样,虽说至关重要,但只是一种调味品而已。“我做得与别人都不一样,”他说,因为他“不再觉得糖是甜点中的精髓。”
He also uses olive oil for his “huile d’olive à la mandarine” macaron. A few months ago, he was in Spain drinking an Americano – a cocktail of Campari, sweet vermouth and club soda – before dinner. “In a flash I thought this would make a perfect macaron”, he says. And so, since October, his boutiques in France, Japan, and London have been selling an Americano Pamplemousse, a delicate pink macaron combining orange, pink grapefruit and Campari.
他还把橄榄油放到橘子里,做成独特风味的马卡龙小甜饼(macaron)。几个月前,他在西班牙赴宴时,喝了一种由堪培利开胃酒(Campari)、甜味美思以及苏打水调制出的、名叫Americano餐前鸡尾酒。“当时我脑海中突然闪过一个念头,用这种鸡尾酒可以制作出精美的马卡龙小甜饼”,他说。因此,今年10月以来,他在法国、日本以及伦敦的专卖店开始推出“美国葡萄柚”的甜饼(Americano Pamplemousse)——这是一种揉合橘子、粉红色柚子以及堪培利开胃酒于一身、做工精细的粉色马卡龙饼。
. . .
. . .
His most famous creation is undoubtedly the Ispahan rose, raspberry and lychee macaron cake that he likes to describe as “my Chanel tailleur”. Like many fashion designers, he has adapted this bestseller into an endless range of accessories including an Ispahan croissant, a jam, a pâte de fruit, yoghurt, a chocolate, and many other variants.
由伊斯帕罕玫瑰(Ispahan Rose)、山莓与荔枝做成的马卡龙无疑是他最有名的甜点,他喜欢称之为“我的香奈儿定制女装”(my Chanel tailleur)。与其它时装设计师一样,他由这款风靡一时的甜饼派生出了很多附属的门类——包括伊斯帕罕羊角面包、火腿、水果软糖、酸奶、巧克力以及许多其它品类系列。
He also works like a top couturier by first designing his new creations on paper and then testing them in his penthouse atelier. There, on a shelf, are not only cookery books but also biographies of Karl Lagerfeld, Yves St Laurent and Jean-Paul Gaultier – the “unofficial ones because they are far more interesting”.
他的工作流程与顶级女装设计师相似,先是在图纸上构思出新产品,再在自己屋顶工作室里反复试验。工作室的书架上,不但有各种烹饪书,还有卡尔•拉格菲尔德(Karl Lagerfeld)、伊夫圣洛朗以及让•保罗•高缇耶(Jean Paul Gaultier)等人的传记——都是些“让人欲罢不能、离经叛道的设计师”。
Once tested and approved, the recipes are then sent out by computer to his executive chefs in Japan, London and France for execution.
一旦试验好并经认可,配方就由电脑发送至日本、伦敦以及巴黎各分店的首席糕点师,再由他们付诸实施。
Hermé and Znaty now run a little epicurean empire employing around 400 people with a turnover of about €30m a year. They are thinking of expanding their culinary “maison” in the US and China to turn it into an even more globally recognised luxury brand. And to achieve this, Hermé has now branched out into the ultimate of haute couture – creating exclusive bespoke cakes and patisseries for individual clients.
艾尔梅与泽拿蒂如今经营着自己的美食帝国,他们雇了约400名员工,年营业额约为3000万欧元。他们打算把甜品门店开到美国与中国去,从而把它变成一家全球知名的奢侈品牌。为此,艾尔梅如今已把触角拓展至甜品界的最高领域——为客户专门定做甜饼及法式蛋糕。
These clients – among them former James Bond girl Carole Bouquet and IMF managing director Christine Lagarde – meet up for lunch with the pastry artist in his atelier in Rue Fortuny and discuss what they want. He then draws up a number of suggestions and they can pick and choose. “Ms Bouquet loved all three proposals and decided she wanted them all,” Hermé smiled. “And we had an English captain of business who flew in with his private jet to choose his cake. You know, we then produce that specific cake or patisserie for that client alone whenever he wants it.”
这些客户(其中包括前邦女郎(James Bond girl)卡洛尔•布盖(Carole Bouquet)以及国际货币基金组织(IMF)总裁拉加德(Christine Lagarde))会来到艾尔梅位于福图尼街的甜点店,向他讨教午餐该吃啥。艾尔梅会推荐几样东西,由对方挑选定夺。“拉加德女士对我推荐的三样甜品都喜欢,于是她一股脑儿全要了,”艾尔梅笑着说。“我们有位客户是英国的商界巨擘,他开着自己的私人飞机前来挑选自己中意的蛋糕。于是乎,任何时候只要客户有需要,我们就会专门为他制作好那种甜饼或蛋糕。”
Yet isn’t it all frightfully expensive? After all these are not simply puddings, pastries and confectioneries. They are luxury goods.
然而,这岂不是太过昂贵了?毕竟这些东西不是一般的布丁、甜点或者糖果,他们是奢侈食品。
“It is not cheap,” Hermé admits with a twinkle in his soft eyes. “But you know, someone quite modest came along and ordered such a cake for his old mother.”
“的确不便宜,”艾尔梅坦承,眼睛温柔地眨了几下。“但你知道吗,一般食客也光顾我们店面,为自己的老娘定制这种高档蛋糕。”
“And by the way,” he adds, “this is the most democratic form of luxury.” After all, who cannot afford €1.95 for an haute couture macaron?
“顺便说一下,”他补充道,“这是最为平民化的奢侈品。”毕竟,哪个人买不起一个售价只有1.95欧元的高档马卡龙甜饼呢?
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Mogador macaron
摩加多尔马卡龙甜饼的(Mogador macaron)做法:
Milk chocolate and passion fruit
准备时间:约1小时
Makes about 72 macarons (about 144 shells)
焙制时间:约25分钟
Preparation time: about 1 hour
等待时间:30分钟
Cooking time: about 25 minutes
冷冻时间:2小时另加24小时
Standing time: 30 minutes
300克杏仁粉
Refrigeration: 2 hours + 24 hours
300克冰糖
For the macaron shells
110克蛋清
300g ground almonds
牛奶巧克力
300g icing sugar
约5克柠檬色素
110g “liquefied” egg whites (method below)
0.5克红色素(约半咖啡勺)
Separate the whites from the yolks. Weigh out the necessary quantity of egg whites into two bowls. Cover the bowls with cling film. Using the point of a sharp knife, pierce the film with holes. It is best to prepare the egg whites several days in advance, preferably a week, so that they “liquefy” and lose their elasticity. Set the bowls aside in the fridge.
300克细白砂糖
5g approx. lemon yellow food colouring
75克矿泉水
½g approx. red food colouring (½ coffee spoon)
110克“液化”蛋清
300g caster sugar
10个百香果(passion fruit)(用来榨出250克果汁):压榨新鲜百香果时,必须要保证榨出250克果汁。有时在熟食店里可以买到冰冻百香果汁,但要仔细看清说明,含糖不能超过5%。
75g mineral water
100克维耶特(La Viette)黄油(产自法国夏朗德大区(Charentes)的甜黄油)在室温下晾放;
110g “liquefied” egg whites
550克法芙娜吉瓦纳(Valrhona Jivara)巧克力或牛奶巧克力,含量40%的固态可可(牛奶巧克力可以让百香果的各种风味呈现出来:芳香味以及只可意会的强烈甜味。)
For the passion fruit and milk chocolate ganache
可制作72个马卡龙甜饼
100g La Viette butter (sweet butter from Charentes) at room temperature
方法如下:把蛋清与蛋黄分开,称出足够数量的蛋清至两个碗中,再用薄膜覆盖。用锋利的刀尖在薄膜上刺孔,最好是把蛋清提前醒上几天(一周最佳),这样它们就能充分液化,不再有弹性,最后把碗放在冰柜中。
550g Valrhona Jivara chocolate or milk
把冰糖与杏仁粉筛选出来;
chocolate, 40% cocoa solids
把色素放入第一份充分液化的蛋清中,并把它们浇到冰糖与杏仁粉上,但请勿搅拌。
(Milk chocolate brings out every aspect of passion fruit: its fragrance and its subtle, tangy sweetness.)
把矿泉水与糖加热至摄氏118度,当糖浆达到115度时,同时开始搅动第二份充分液化的蛋清,直至呈软性发泡状态(soft peak)。
10 passion fruits (for 250g juice)
当糖温达到摄氏118度时,就把它倒到蛋清上,并不断搅动,直到其温度降至摄氏50度,然后再把它们拌入杏仁粉与冰糖的混合物,用勺子把糊状物放至只有一个喷嘴的裱花袋(piping bag)中,吹出直径约为3.5厘米的圆状物,在铺着一排排烘烤纸(baking parchment)的盘中以间距2厘米依次排开。用餐布盖住操作台,再把烤盘放在上面,再用筛网在蛋塔上轻轻撒上一层可可粉,然后让蛋塔至少晾上30分钟直至结成一层外壳。
Make sure you weigh out 250g of juice when you strain the fresh passion fruit. You can sometimes find frozen passion fruit juice in delicatessens. Check that it contains no more than 5 per cent sugar.
把风式烤箱预热至180度,然后把托盘放至炉内,烤上12分钟,期间快速开启与关闭炉门两次,取出烤炉后,让甜饼层滑至操作台上。
To finish
把马卡龙搁到冰柜里24小时,在烤之前2小时取出焙烤即可。
Cocoa powder
制作木头形蛋糕
To make the macaron shells
把黄油切成块状,并用带锯齿的刀把巧克力切开。
Sift together the icing sugar and ground almonds.
把百香果对半切开,用勺子把籽舀出来,挤出250克果汁,称重后把它煮开。
Stir the food colouring into the first portion of liquefied egg whites. Pour them over the mixture of icing sugar and ground almonds but do not stir.
在平底锅里微微煮开的水里,把放至碗中的块状巧克力部分融化,然后把煮开的果汁一次三分之一(分三次)浇到巧克力上。
Bring the water and sugar to boil at 118C. When the syrup reaches 115C, simultaneously start whisking the second portion of liquefied egg whites to soft peaks.
当混合物的温度升至60度后,把黄油块加进去(一次只加几块),搅拌后就能得到了光滑的ganache浆。
When the sugar reaches 118C, pour it over the egg whites. Whisk and allow the meringue to cool down to 50C, then fold it into the ground almond-icing sugar mixture. Spoon the batter into a piping bag fitted with a plain nozzle. Pipe rounds of batter about 3.5 cm in diameter, spacing them 2cm apart on baking trays lined with baking parchment. Cover your work surface with a kitchen cloth and rap the baking trays on it. Using a sieve, sprinkle the shells with a light dusting of cocoa powder. Leave the shells to stand for at least 30 minutes until they form a skin.
把ganache浆放入烤盘(gratin dish),再在ganache上包一层保鲜膜,放至冰柜中让它慢慢变浓。
Preheat the fan oven to 180C then put the trays in the oven. Bake for 12 minutes quickly opening and shutting the oven door twice during cooking time. Out of the oven, slide the shells on to the work surface.
用勺子把ganache浆放在只有一个喷嘴的裱花袋中,把圆堆状ganache浆吹至一半饼层上,然后再把剩余的饼层盖在上面。
To make the ganache
由皮埃尔·艾尔梅所著《法国甜点马卡龙》(‘Macarons’)由格拉布街出版(Grub Street)(售价25英镑)。
Cut the butter into pieces. Chop up the chocolate with a serrated knife.
译者:常和

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

20 Things to do in Shenzhen... that you probably haven't done before

We love Shenzhen. This city of more than 14 million people has long been considered a playground for Hongkongers, where you can haggle over handbags, spend the day getting your nails done, and (if you’re a spiky haired teenager) party the weekend away in one of the city’s many vast nightclubs. But there’s much more to it than triple A-grade copies. With its world-class galleries and several artist villages ranging from original works to top-quality reproductions, there’s tons of culture to be found in the SEZ. Shoppers looking for something far removed from train station squabbles should check out the mega malls, offering everything from homewares to electronics. Regardless of whether you want to hit the spas or try some of the impressive cuisine from all over China, you’ll find it all in our guide to Shenzhen.
By HK staff | published Apr 28, 2011

1. Clamber around on a decommisioned Soviet aircraft carrier

Minsk World

Fans of military history should definitely make a trip out to Minsk World, arguably one of the strangest theme parks you’re likely to find in Shenzhen—and trust us, that’s saying something. Minsk is the name of an old Soviet-era aircraft carrier, which is now docked here as a permanent exhibition space, showcasing various artifacts such as planes, helicopters and PLA machinery. Visitors are free to roam around the flight deck and on certain floors of the vessel. For a small fee, you can even take a boat ride round the starboard side to get a glimpse of The Minsk in all its glory. Staff march around dressed in military-like uniforms, and will stage musical performances throughout the day.
Jinrong Rd, Shatoujiao, 0755-2535-5333, http://www.szminsk.com/

2. Get lost in geek heaven

SEG Electronic Market
SEG is the biggest electronics mall in the area. Be warned that means there’ll be a lot of hawkers out front determined to sell you their pirated software and laptops. Once inside, you’ll find a large variety of more genuine products mostly divided by floors. The first two sell electronic components like switches, tapes and conductors – so stay away unless you’re a serious nerd or in the business. Instead, head up to the third to eighth floors for laptops and computer accessories like hard drives, memory sticks, GPS receivers and MP3 players. On the fourth floor, you’ll find products from big brand names like Samsung and Sony. Be warned: they aren’t necessarily as cheap as those in Hong Kong—some may even be more expensive now considering the rising value of the Yuan. Don’t forget to bargain, bargain, bargain.
46 Huaqiang Bei Lu, Futian

3. Actually walk on some grass

Fairy Lake (Xianhu) Botanical Garden
Beyond the towering shopping malls of Luohu, much of Shenzhen is actually very green and beautiful. For just RMB 20, you can spend the day at one of the city’s best parks. Pack a picnic and wander through the picturesque gardens; cross the Chinese bridges the span the lakes; meander through the labyrinth and gawk at the hundreds of bursting blooms in the orchid garden. Best yet, you can pay homage to one of China’s greatest leader, Deng Xiaoping, by paying a visit to the tree he planted to honor the opening of the park. A stroll around the expansive park hand-in-hand is definitely a treat for couples—no wonder why there’s no shortage of wedding photo shoots here.
Fairy Lake Botanical Garden (Xianhu Zhiwuyuan), No.160 Liantangxianhu Rd., 0755-2573- 8430

4. Trick out your house

Century Furnishings Central Mall
Interior furnishing and furniture fans will enjoy a trip to this sprawling complex of strip malls, split into A, B and C areas (each area is as humongous as our Convention Centre in Wan Chai, so happy walking). Peruse the showrooms of furniture styles, from quaint American country to gaudy, gilt-painted monstrosities straight out of Louis XVI’s palace. For Asian-influenced pieces, there’s everything from antique Qing to modern Chinese minimalism. There are door handles in one wing, ceramic tiles in another. Want Egyptian hieroglyphics on your wall, or a bathroom like a Ming tomb? It’s all there (made in Shandong though). Area C, with all the remarkable designer knockoff lamps, is especially popular with the locals. A word of caution though: while the selection is unrivalled, it’s not particularly cheap. You have been warned.
Shennan Dalu, Futian District, 0755-8731-0111, www.sz-sjzx.com.
Near the Xiangmihu metro station

5. Soak up some culture

OCT Art & Design Gallery

A quintessential part of the OCT Contemporary Art Terminal (O-CAT), this gallery is located right next to the renowned He Xiangning Art Museum. The 3,000 square-meter space, with a modern exterior made of hexagonal glass steel, was renovated from an old warehouse, and is one of China’s most prominent venues to showcase cutting-edge design ideas. Its current creative exhibition, “What’s Next 30×30,” features more than 30 artists and designers including Stefan Sagmeister (Austria), Tsai Ming-liang (Taiwan) and Hong Kong’s Anothermountainman (aka Kung Chi-shing) will run till May 25.
9009 Shennan Rd., Overseas Chinese Town, Nanshan District, 0755-3399-3222, www.oct-and.com

6. Be the boy in the bubble

Shenzhen Culture Park
Like many, we’ve always wondered what it would be like to be a hamster. Hoist yourself into a giant inflatable bubble and run around on the lake at the Shenzhen Culture Park, and afterwards, solemnly vow never to put your pet into a transparent ball again.
Shenzhen Culture Park, Renmin Gongyuan Lu

7. Take a walk along the beaten path

Dongmen Shopping District
For many, the Dongmen shopping district is the only reason to come to Shenzhen. Established 300 years ago and therefore also known as “Laojie” (meaning Old Street—hence the name of the metro station nearby). It’s one of the best places for cheap tech and has a thriving market in DVDs and console games of dubious origins: just USD$0.75 for major console games, and USD$0.90 for a DVD. The next question is whether you can get your bounty back across the border, especially now that police have stepped up custom checks. The choice is yours.

8. Enjoy a little slice of Europe

OCT East

You could lose yourself for days at OCT East—a massive entertainment theme park covering over nine kilometers of lush greenery in Dameisha, a beachy resort town in eastern Shenzhen. Combining two theme parks, three “scenic” towns recreating historical European townships (hence the full name: Overseas Chinese Town), and four resort hotels, a temple and an ancient Mandarin mansion to boot—it’s easy to see why families spend entire weeklong holidays here. For a break from the kiddie rides and swan-shaped paddle boats, go for a game of golf at one of the two 18-hole golf courses, take a dip in the onsite hot springs or unwind with a steaming cup of Chinese tea at one of the many pavilions surrounded by a tea plantation inside the Tea Stream Resort Valley.
OCT East, East Dameisha, Yantian District, 0755-8888-9888, http://www.octeast.com/

9. Relax a bit

Shenzhen Lizhi Gongyuan (Lychee Park)

Shenzhen Lizhi Gongyuan is a quiet botanical oasis in the middle of the city, famed for its beautiful lychee trees and scenic landscapes. Themed gardens, majestic pavilions and lush greenery dot this sprawling park, which is home to more than 30 different species of pretty plants. Besides the plump and juicy lychee trees, you’ll also be able to find ferns and cocoa plants at Lizhi Gongyuan. The gorgeous Lake Lihu is accessible at the southern edges of the park, with quaint little bridges and pathways built across. Lizhi Gongyuan is a breath of fresh air after a tiring shopping excursion, or even a reason on its own for a visit to the city.
1001 Hongling Zhong Lu, Futian District, 0755-8209 5655

10. Sink a couple of pitchers

The Kingway Beer Garden
Local beer Kingway is brewed in Shenzhen, and unusually for a Chinese beer, a) there’s no formaldehyde in it and b) it’s drinkable. And at this open-air beer garden behind the brewery itself, the beer is sold by the pitcher, and incredibly cheap. It’s a beer garden-cum-hawker center, with some decent basic food available to those who want it – but the beer definitely takes pride of place in between the satay sticks and the dice games. If you stay late enough, it’s a sure bet that your drunker-than-you neighbors will come over and start toasting you for any reason at all. Getting there is a taxi ride and a bit of luck, as it’s actually in a large open space surrounded by buildings, but go down the alley to get there and you’ll see a motley collection of chefs shucking the scallops you’re about to eat.
1 Buxin Dongchang Lu, Luohu, 0755-2551-6328

11. Ride the rollercoasters

Happy Valley

Shenzhen’s answer to Ocean Park, Happy Valley is a massive amusement park divided into nine zones: Sunshine Beach, Shangri-La Woods, Typhoon Bay, Goldmine Town, Playa Maya Water Park (open in the summer only), Happy Times, Mount Adventure, Spanish Square and Cartoon City. There are more than 100 amusements here, including several large rides that are not for the faint-hearted—many of which have been brought in from overseas. Our personal favorite is the river rapids ride, where you don a raincoat and get pelted with other visitors armed with water cannons as you pass by. There’re also the obligatory street-side performances to watch out for, including acrobatics, extreme sports, break dancing and magic displays. Entrance is RMB170 for adults and RMB85 for children over 1.1 meters tall. Kids shorter than that go in for free.
Overseas Chinese Town, Nanshan District, 0755-2694-9184, sz.happyvalley.cn

12. Learn some history

Splendid China Folk Village

At the 30-hectare Splendid China Folk Village, you’ll be able to see China’s cultural treasures in miniature version, all in one place and ready for you to explore at RMB120. Reduced at a scale of roughly 15:1, the replicas of landmarks such as the Great Wall of China, the Forbidden City and the Imperial Palace are now conveniently available in Shenzhen’s own Futian district. Tombs, caves and even Buddha structures from different corners of the country are also on display. Apart from the Miniature Park, Splendid China also houses a Chinese Folk Culture Village showcasing the country’s 56 different ethnic groups. Each group is represented by a beautiful village, and there are dance and music shows daily in each village given by authentic ethnic performers.
Overseas Chinese Town, Nanshan District, 0755-2660-6526, www.cn5000.com.cn

13. Unwind at a mega-spa

Water Cube
Move over Queen Spa: the biggest and brightest relaxation venue in Shenzhen’s formidable lineup of mammoth massage parlors is the Water Cube. Located right next to Lok Ma Chau station, Water Cube offers a full range of spa treatments and facilities, all in brand spanking new and (relatively) classy surroundings. Relax in the vast indoor Jacuzzi, take a private bath or simply go for a foot massage. You can even get your hair cut, enjoy a round of mahjong, have a full-on Chinese banquet or even shoot some pool—all while wearing a snazzy set of PJs, of course.
1-6/F, Gangchenghuating Building, Yunong Village, Futian District, 0755-8329-6666, http://www.slfspa.com/

14. Get your drink on

Coco Park Bar Street
A shopping complex in the city center, Coco Park is one of the hippest spots in town. Besides countless shops and restaurants, the entire east side of Coco is a bar street with massive open-air drinking areas, popular among youngsters and expats in town. You’ll have no problem finding bars of different styles and vibes; get some friends together and there will be a sizzling party that goes from a quiet post-dinner catch-up to after-midnight mayhem.
Fuhua 3rd Rd., Futian District

15. Get a portrait

Dafen Art Village

If your walls at home are looking plain and drab, forget the generic “pebble” paintings you get in Ikea—hop in a cab and head out to the Dafen Art Village. Consisting of several blocks lined with galleries and workshops (some of which serve excellent coffee), this is the place to come for oil paintings for just about any occasion. You’ll find many reproductions of modern Chinese artworks (some wouldn’t look out of place in a Hollywood Road gallery) as well as abstract pieces, replicas of works by everyone from Da Vinci to Liechtenstein, paintings suitable for kids’ bedrooms and landscapes—in short, there’s something for just about everyone. Don’t see something you like? You can have a painting commissioned based on a photograph or picture. Always wanted a six-foot high painting of yourself riding a horse? Here’s where you’re gonna get it. Prices are extremely reasonable too—we decorated our whole house with paintings from here—some of them four-foot high—for just RMB900.
Longgang, Buji (say “Dafen Youhua Cuun” to your taxi driver; it should take about half an hour from Luohu in a cab)

16. Go nuts for knickknacks

Light Industrial Products City (Yizhan Centre)
Give your home a revamp by heading to mega mall complex Yizhan Centre for some stylish knickknacks and decorative items. These large multi-level shopping towers have virtually everything, from cushions, lamps, crockery and accessories to whimsical pieces, such as a life-sized horse sculpture donning a lampshade as a hat. There’s one floor dedicated to top-quality silk flowers; another to vases and other pieces that wouldn’t look out of place in Indigo. Be sure to keep your eye on the prize because you can easily get lost in the maze of shops. Unlike Luohu, shopkeepers here are much more friendly and easygoing, but be sure to haggle down inflated prices. For the best way to get there, join a daytime shopping tours organized by the Australian Association of Hong Kong (www.ozhongkong.com, 2530-4461). They start the journey from a meeting point in Central and shuttles shoppers directly to the house wares district (near Liyuan Lu and Meiyuan Road) by coach. If you’re done with the decor, the Association also offers organized tours for Dafen Artist Village. Besides picking up a trolley full of goodies for the house, there’ll also be some lovely ladies to spend the day with.
Yizhan Centre, Meiyuan Rd., Luohu District, www.yizhanzx.com

Dine in a swanky restaurant

The importance of Shenzhen as an economic hub has seen an explosion of high-end hotels in the past few years. With the hotels come world-class restaurants where you can treat yourself after a long day trudging around the city. Here are some of our favorites.

17. Belle-Vue


This restaurant is all about the gorgeous view (the “Belle-Vue,” if you will). This European restaurant has two separate areas, The Living Room and The Library, which are a bastion of Grand Hyatt luxury in the middle of Shenzhen; chefs can prepare your meal tableside at one of their cooking stations, and, this being China and all, there is a wide range of wines to choose from to impress your guests. Alternatively, end your weekend on a high note with a luxurious Sunday champagne brunch. Made-to-order, chefs bring delectable dishes, like their sinfully creamy lobster bisque, right to your table.
37/F, Grand Hyatt Shenzhen, 1881 Baoan Nan Rd., Luohu District, 0755 2218-7338

18. China Spice


At China Spice you’ll be able to find specialty dishes from each unique province in China and also fusion creations like Cantonese delicacies with a hint of Sichuan and Chiu Chow. Herbal and healthy medicinal soups are part of the restaurant’s prestigious repertoire, and you can enjoy them in a traditional or contemporary brew depending on your preference. Private dining rooms are available for intimate gatherings.
4/F, Four Points by Sheraton Shenzhen, 5 Guihua Rd., Futian District, 0755-8358-8655

19. Paletto


Enjoy this fine Italian dining experience in Ritz Carlton. Renowned Italian chef Massimo Miglietta cooks up authentic Italian dishes with a modern twist. Choose from a gourmet selection of antipasti, pizza, pasta, grilled seafood and a variety of regional dishes. You should try their two delicious features, wagyu beef tenderloin with black pepper crust, Savoy cabbage, sauteed and creamed potatoes, and the whole wheat chitarra spaghetti in lobster sauce, while you’re there. The restaurant is elegantly decorated with a contemporary touch.
2/F, Ritz Carlton Shenzhen, 116 Fuhua San Rd., Futian District, 0755 2222-2222

20. Shang Garden


Think bistro-style Cantonese dining in a comfortable and laid back atmosphere and you’ve got Shang Garden, Fu Tian Shangri-La’s pride and joy. Headed by chef Anthony Dong, the restaurant serves authentic Huaiyang and Cantonese fare such as their signature steamed egg white with crab roe and double-boiled beef soup with Chinese yam, medlar and red dates (we highly recommend the red dates stuffed with glutonous rice for dessert!). You’ll also be able to enjoy classic, all-you-can-eat dim sum for lunch or a-la-carte in the morning.
Futian Shangri-La, 4088 Yi Tian Rd., Futian District, 0755-2151-3835