Best bar terraces that are so Hong Kon

Our ode to the bar terrace, the champion of our continual struggle to discover peaceful spaces in the mad urban build-up of Hong Kong

By Nicholas Olczak 7 May, 2010

The Fringe Club's terrace is a mellow hangout in bustling Central.

If the low-key Hong Kong bar terrace were a person, it would be a saint. The patron saint of those poor, lost, stressed-out souls, seeking a place where they can escape horrid bosses and noisy neighbors. Alas, the streets of this city are too crowded, so Hong Kong bars wishing to offer peaceful, spacious, outdoor seating, have to do so with elevated terraces.
Some really distinctive terraces are tucked into the front of old Chinese buildings or stretch across rooftops all over Hong Kong. Our favorites are the ones with a mellow atmosphere that are situated just several stories high. This means the terraces are surrounded by highrises on all sides, giving a very Hong Kong feel to the 'view.' We can escape from the city and immerse ourselves in it at the same time. Here are six of our favorite:

The Fringe Club

After a visit to The Fringe’s rooftop terrace, it’s hard to understand why anybody would want to go sit in the dark, clammy interiors of Lan Kwai Fong bars. This large terrace is a real breathing space in the middle of Central. It's fantastically positioned with gleaming office buildings wrapped 360 degrees around. Add to this some cheap happy hour prices on Erdinger and John Smith’s beer together with tasty tapas dishes and you’re on to a winner.
2 Lower Albert Road, Central, tel +852 2521 7521

Cup Cup Cafe

For anyone who’s not lucky enough to have their own luxury apartment with a big sun drenched balcony, then a trip to the terrace of Cup Cup is a nice alternative. With smart wicker seating, a barbeque, and just a few fashionable customers, it feels a lot like somebody’s designer home. It would be a great place to rest after battling through the shops and crowds of Causeway Bay or to bring a date for a quiet after-dinner drink.
Unit 4B, Vincent House, 513-515 Lockhart Road, Causeway Bay, tel +852 3568 5978

Full Cup Cafe

A glance around at the tattooed and beanie wearing customers confirms this is the place where Hong Kong’s real hipsters choose to hang out, smoke, chat and enjoy the huge range of coffees, teas and comfort food.
With a mosaic sprawling over its back wall, a gnome perched over a little pond, and Lykke Li on the stereo, Full Cup’s terrace abounds in the type of kitschy cool and slight whimsy that makes Mongkok Mongkok.
4/F-6/F, Hanway Commercial Building, 36 Dundas Street, Mongkok, tel +852 2771 7775

The Pawn

Come six o’clock and The Pawn’s terrace fills up with suited business people who head here straight from the offices looking for a stylish place for post-work drinks.
If you can put up with, or even enjoy, this slightly ra ra clientele then the terrace is a great place to sit while watching the trams slide by on Hennessy Road. The Pawn has an impressive range of English and Belgian beers as well as deep fried finger foods to boot.
Alternatively, check out the rooftop of The Pawn, which is officially public space.
2-3/F, 62 Johnston Road, Wan Chai, tel +852 2866 3444

Pizza Milano

This isn't a bar, but it's a pizza joint that is perfect for a boozy night out. The original Pizza Milano on Cochrane Street proves you don't need Italian charm when you have the cityscape of Hong Kong. Instead of looking out over a little European piazza as you eat, this terrace lets you marvel at the towers of Soho, and there’s something romantic about being wrapped in the magic of the city in this way. Combine this with authentic tasting stone-oven pizzas and you have one of those really unique eating experiences at which Soho excels.  
9/F, Cheung Hing Comm Bldg, No. 37-43 Cochrane Street, Central, tel +852 2581 2848

Sense 99

Without even trying, the terrace of Sense 99 has more character than most bars in Hong Kong put together. Sit up here late in the evening and you’ll see a whole parade of hipsters, musicians, artists, and drunks come tumbling out from inside.
The terrace also feels immersed in history, located on an old Chinese walk-up building. It's a place which throbs with Hong Kong culture, both old and new.
99 Wellington Street, Central, tel +852 9466-4695

Best Hong Kong bars with a view

Sipping a cocktail while ogling Victoria Harbour is the quintessential Hong Kong drinking experience 

By Zoe Li, Hong Kong Editor 5 July, 2011  

 

Looking for your boss? Try Sugar, at EAST.

Hong Kong's famed Victoria Harbour lit up in bright lights makes for a ravishing view and there's nothing quite like it anywhere else in the world. The experience is enhanced by a well-made drink at some of the city's most glamorous addresses.
Here are our picks of the best Hong Kong bars with a view of Victoria Harbour:

Sugar: Best new perspective

Sugar is the most resourceful bar-with-a-view. It is located on the edge of a residential housing estate in Quarry Bay where it is rare to find a high-octane cocktail joint with a killer view to boot. Predictably, the joint is getting good business from the neighboring Taikoo Place offices.
While "harborview" typically conjures up the night view of Tsim Sha Tsui lit up by neon, Sugar offers a view of East Kowloon where there are fewer flourescent billboards. The scene is made up of ocean-going vessels serenely floating in the wide harbor with a backdrop of the old airport, Kai Tak.
It's best to visit the loungy outdoor deck before sunset to enjoy the coastline by the soft light of dusk. This way, you can also avoid Sugar's garish pink and purple lighting that becomes apparent once it's dark. 
Open until 2 a.m. 32/F, EAST, 29 Taikoo Shing Road, Tai Koo, +852 3968 3738 www.sugar-hongkong.com

It could only be called OZONE.

OZONE: Highest in Asia

Perched on the 118th floor of the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong, OZONE claims to be the highest bar in Asia, counting up from street-level.
That superlative alone is enough to attract throngs of thirsty thrill-seekers. But the bar is an over-achiever. OZONE stuns inside and out with a lavishly decorated interior of gold and marble.
Corner tables offer a wraparound view, while binoculars located on the terrace are a temptation for everyone's inner voyeur.
The menu is light Asian tapas heavy with Japanese influences. Cocktails are done with confidence here but Champagne from the extensive cellar is the default for the well-heeled customers.
No flip-flops, beach sandals and plastic footwear. Men are required to wear full-length trousers; sleeveless shirts are prohibited. 118/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon, +852 2263 2263.www.ritzcarlton.com

Felix at the Peninsula.

Felix: The godfather

Felix is the original Hong Kong harborview bar, where you can celebrate the neon-lit panorama of Victoria Harbour all the way to the men's bathroom (it has one of Hong Kong's best toilets).
It's become a bit of a tourist trap, with the restaurant serving so-so Pacific Rim cuisine, hit-and-miss service, and a clientele of short-stay visitors armed with cameras, but the place remains an icon and you have to at least know about Felix if you've set foot in the city.
Designed by Philippe Starck, the contemporary art feel of Felix contrasts with the colonial grandeur of the rest of the Peninsula Hotel.
The bar does decent drinks, although anybody who comes here doesn't bother with much other than Champagne. It's an old-school high roller place that bans kids and enforces a strict dress code, but get past the elitism and you're in Hong Kong's most classic harborview bar.  
Drinks until 1:30 a.m. No flip-flops, beach sandals or plastic footwear. Men are not permitted to wear sleeveless shirts and are required to wear full-length trousers. Children under 12 are not permitted. The Felix elevators are located in the Peninsula Arcade entrance adjacent to Hankow Road. 28/F, The Peninsula Hotel, Salisbury Road, Kowloon, +852 2920 2888 www.peninsula.com/Hong_Kong

The Aqua Luna.

Aqua Luna: Be the harbor

You can't get much closer to Victoria Harbour than aboard the Aqua Luna, a beautifully refurbished traditional Hong Kong junk that turns into a bar at night.
This Oriental-chic floating bar is Hong Kong's ultimate booze cruise, taking guests for a Prosecco-fueled 45-minute voyage around Victoria Harbour. The sailing of choice is the 7:30 p.m. Symphony of Lights cruise. If you want to make a day of it, take the leisurely Aqua Luna 90-minute cruise to Stanley on weekends.
Eight daily sailings from 1:30 - 10:30 p.m.; noon cruise to Stanley Market on Saturday and Sunday only. Sailings depart from Pier 1 (Cultural Center) in Tsim Sha Tsui and Pier 9 in Central.
For reservations call +852 2116 8821 www.aqua.com.hk

Café Gray Bar: Unapologetically fancy

The crowd is very moneyed, very hip and unashamedly aware of how pretentious it can be. I mean, this is a place that serves gimlets in miniature martini glasses. But it is a six-star hotel bar and the staff are trained in the finer skills of hospitality -- they'll serve your gimlet in a paper cup if that's what you demand.
The design is understated and sophisticated, with tactile upholstery in warm woods, navy and not a touch of chrome or acrylic.
A seat by the windows gets a view of the tops of Admiralty's skyscrapers and Tsim Sha Tsui beyond. The best part though is that the bar food is actually pretty good, such as the polenta fries and crabmeat fritters, courtesy chef Gray Kunz. 
Drinks until 1 a.m. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, +852 2918 1838 www.cafegrayhk.com

Aqua Spirit.

Aqua Spirit: Flirting with vertigo

Just being in Aqua Spirit makes us feel sexy. It's all dark reflective surfaces, really-difficult-to-get tables and politely aloof staff. Some regulars like to top off the experience with the signature Aquatini, a martini with gold flakes.
The harborview here is huge. A powerful panorama of Victoria Harbour is presented through floor-to-ceiling windows spanning two stories. Every little detail of northern Hong Kong Island can be seen. It's slightly vertiginous, causing a mild dizziness that goes well with gold flake cocktail-induced tipsiness. 
Open until 2 a.m. 29-30/F, One Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, +852 3427 2288
www.aqua.com.hk

Sevva.

Sevva: Central hangout

Sevva's interior is straight out of Vogue Living and the view from the open terrace encompasses Kowloon, Victoria Harbour, Admiralty, and Central -- the neighboring HSBC building is so close you could almost touch it. All this makes Sevva the banker and corporate lawyer's hangout of choice for that magical social space that occurs post-dinner and pre-club.
Someone's closed a deal -- they'll head to Sevva to toast associates facing the champion view. Someone's lost a court case -- they'll head to Sevva and sink low in the outdoor couches, get drunk and angry on old Bordeaux then rant at the HSBC.
Watch out for disappointing food at Sevva's restaurant and avoid the below par service on ridiculously busy weekends. 
Open until 2 a.m. on Friday, Saturday, and public holidays' eve; closed Sunday. 25/F, Prince's Building, 10 Chater Road, Central, +852 2537 1388 www.sevva.hk

Lobby Lounge at the InterContinental.

Lobby Lounge: Place to be seen

The InterContinental's Lobby Lounge has an unnerving fish bowl effect. The large windows are the main feature and they look out onto the Avenue of the Stars at street level, so you know the tourists may be looking in at you, maybe they'll take a snapshot, maybe post you onto their travel blog. But tourists are an inherent part of Hong Kong's harborview and they make the Lobby Lounge a unique place to access Victoria Harbour.
The lounge itself has an impersonal business hotel feel to it, but visit at night and the view of Hong Kong's skyline looms large while the lounge decor recedes. See this video as proof of the Lobby Lounges' harborview credentials.
Drinks until 1 a.m. Hotel InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, +852 2721 1211 hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com

ToTT's.

ToTT's: Most overlooked lookout

Causeway Bay has one swanky rooftop respite that isn't talked about much. Ironically, it's called ToTT's, which stands for Talk of The Town.
Perched on the top floor of the Excelsior, the restaurant is loved for its Champagne brunches (Sunday, 11:30 a.m. - 3 p.m.) and special occasion dinners, but we love it for its girly cocktails you can enjoy on the roof terrace during one of those clear Hong Kong summer nights.
No sandals, singlets, shorts, or sleeveless shirts. Open until 2 a.m., Friday, Saturday, and public holiday eves. 281 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, +852 2837 6786 www.mandarinoriental.com/excelsior

When sweet meets dry 葡萄酒甜度有讲究

We like our wine to be dry, don’t we? Unless, of course, it is unashamedly very sweet (and even this, alas, is a minority taste). But the supposedly dry wines on our shelves can vary substantially in how much unfermented sugar they contain – and those that fall between dry and sweet present real challenges.	一般人都喜欢喝味很淡的葡萄酒，是吧？当然除非是特甜的那种（即便如此，这种口味也不多见）。但酒柜里的红酒因所含未发酵糖份的含量不同而显得千差万别——那些处于味淡与甜之间的酒实在让人难以抉择。
Sweetness in wine, known as “residual sugar” or RS, is usually measured in grams per litre of liquid, although Americans generally express it as a percentage. It is impossible to get RS levels down to zero (wine starts out as very sweet grape juice) but the general threshold of perception of sweetness is around 2g/l (or 0.2 per cent). Most fine red wine is well below this, often less than 1g/l, so doesn’t taste at all sweet.	葡萄酒中的含糖量（所谓的残余糖分，即RS）以每升酒中所含糖的克数来表示，美国人则通常以百分比来衡量。残余糖分不可能降至没有（酒刚酿出时就是很甜的葡萄汁），但衡量是否是甜酒的门槛约为每升2克（即0.2%）的含糖量。多数高档红葡萄酒的甜度都要比这低得多（常常低于每升1克），所以压根就尝不出甜味来。
It’s a different story with mass-market brands. Yellow Tail, the archetypal “critter” brand so successful it now accounts for almost half of all Australian wine imported into the US, is famously relatively sweet – as is one of the most successful brands of California Chardonnay, Kendall Jackson Vintner’s Reserve. These brands are likely to notch up sugar levels of at least 5-6g/l. Some of the California whites naughtily labelled Chablis, even though it is a controlled geographical appellation in Europe, can notch up well over 10g/l of sugar, often in the form of deliberately added sweet grape juice concentrate.	对于销量大的葡萄酒来说，则是另当别论。黄尾葡萄酒(Yellow Tail)这个贴有澳洲特有袋鼠标志的品牌在美国市场大获成功，如今几乎占了该国澳洲进口葡萄酒的一半，它就以味甜著称——肯德杰克逊酒庄精选(Kendall Jackson Vintner’s Reserve)的加州霞多丽(Chardonnay)也是如此。这几种葡萄酒的含糖量可能至少达到了每升5-6克。即便莎碧 (Chablis)属于欧洲某些地区特产的葡萄酒，但某些自诩为莎碧、产自加州的白葡萄酒的含糖量超过了每升10克，通常是有意添加适量浓缩葡萄汁。
Those who routinely analyse wine report that, in general, inexpensive products – reds as well as whites and pinks, made in California, Australia, Chile and New Zealand – have notably higher sugar levels than Europe’s “dry” wines: 3-8g/l rather than 1-2g/l. Because of New Zealand’s relatively high latitudes, acid levels in the grapes tend to be higher than in wine regions closer to the equator. The higher the acid, the less sweet a wine tastes, so Kiwi wines’ sweetness tends to be less obvious than those grown in hotter climes.	作常规酒类分析的专家发布报告称：产于加州、澳洲、智利以及新西兰的廉价白、红以及桃红葡萄酒的含糖量通常比欧洲的淡味型酒要高很多：达到每升3-8克，而不是每升1-2克。由于新西兰的纬度相对高一些，葡萄中的酸度总是比赤道附近的产酒区来得高。酸度越高，葡萄酒的甜味就越尝不出来，所以与那些产于气候较为温暖地区的葡萄酒相比，猕猴桃酒的甜度不太明显。
Sweetness can be used deliberately by a winemaker to counteract excessively high acidity. Some of France’s cheapest “dry” white labelled Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne from armagnac country, for example, tends to be extremely high in acidity, so winemakers often soften this by boosting the natural sugar level. This technique may be applied to some commercial whites from Italy where high yields leave the grapes very high in acid. European reds that are sold as dry but often in fact contain up to 8g/l of residual sugar include some of the less artisan wines from Sicily and Puglia in southern Italy.	酿酒师可以有意使用甜度来“中和”一下过高的酸度。法国有些很便宜的干白，如产自阿马尼亚克县加斯科涅丘(Côtes de Gascogne, Armagnac)的Vin de Pays酒的酸度就特别高，因此酿酒师通常用提高天然甜度的方法让酒味变得柔和些。产自意大利的某些商业白葡萄酒可能也应用了此方法，该国的葡萄产量很高，所以酿出酒的酸度非常高。当作干红销售、但实际含糖量却高达每升8克的欧洲红酒就包括了产自意大利西西里岛以及该国南部普利来地区(Puglia)某些极普通的工匠葡萄酒。
Another factor that can affect how sweet a wine tastes is temperature. At a recent blind tasting, we were, unbeknown to us, served the same wine twice, once at room temperature and once well chilled. We all thought the chilled version of this sweetish wine (60g/l residual sugar) was drier than the warmer one because acidity is more prominent at lower temperatures.	影响酒甜度的另一大因素是温度。在最近举行的一场盲品(Blind Tasting)中，我们这些品酒师在事先毫不知情的情况下，两次品尝的实际上是一模一样的酒，第一种为常温酒，第二种是冰镇过的酒。品过的人都认为这款甜酒（每升含糖量60克）的冰镇酒要比常温酒的味要来得淡，原因就是低温酒的酸度更为明显。
Although virtually all red wines are relatively dry, the level of residual sugar in white wines can vary enormously – from under 2g/l to hundreds of grams per litre in naturally sweet wines made from really ripe grapes. Wines at each end of the sweetness spectrum are generally easy to identify and we more or less know how they are going to taste. But a considerable proportion of white wines lie somewhere in between dry and very sweet. It can be very frustrating to buy a bottle of wine and find that it is much sweeter (or drier) than expected. The wines of Alsace have been particular sinners in this respect. They can vary from bone dry to medium sweet without any indication on the label to help the consumer. This has driven a handful of producers such as Zind Humbrecht to devise their own systems for indicating sweetness.	虽说几乎所有红酒的味都很淡，但各种白葡萄酒之间的残余糖分差别却很大——从每升不到2克至天然甜酒（由自然成熟的葡萄酿制）的每升几百克，不一而足。特甜与不甜的葡萄酒通常很容易识别，因为我们多少知道些它们品起来是啥味。但很多白葡萄酒介于味淡与特甜之间，有时买了一瓶葡萄酒后发现比预想得要甜（或淡），这很让人扫兴，产自阿尔萨斯(Alsace)的葡萄酒尤其给人这种“刻骨铭心”的感觉。它们的口感千差万别，从极淡到中度甜型，消费者从酒瓶的标签上看不出有啥差别。这使得辛特—鸿布列什酒庄(Zind Humbrecht)在内的诸多酒庄设计自己的甜度标示体系。
In the US, where Riesling has had a head of steam behind it (largely thanks to Washington state’s Château Ste Michelle and its joint venture with Erni Loosen of Germany’s Mosel Valley), an American-based organisation called the International Riesling Foundation has also come up with a graphic to be used on wine labels to show the degree of sweetness.	在美国，雷司令的销量遥遥领先（这很大程度上要归功于华盛顿州的圣米歇尔酒庄(Château Ste Michelle)以及它与德国摩泽尔河谷(moselle valley)的路森博士酒庄(Erni Loosen)的合资公司），总部位于美国的国际雷司令基金会(International Riesling Foundation)也想出了在酒瓶标签上用图解的方式来标示酒的甜度。
It was to test how well this scale, the Riesling Taste Profile, from dry through gradations of medium dry and medium sweet to sweet, could be applied to a wide, international range of Rieslings that 25 of us tried to grade the sweetness levels of 26 examples ranging in sweetness from 0.92 to 207.50g/l. We were shown International Riesling Foundation guidelines of extreme complexity beforehand that indicated what influence acidity and the level of pH (the intensity of the acidity), should have in addition to the residual sugar level. One of the tasters was Wendy Stuckey, responsible for Château Ste Michelle’s highly successful Washington state Rieslings. She confessed that, when deciding exactly which point on the Riesling Taste Profile should be applied to each wine, they took no notice of the formulae and did it all on how it tasted.	我们25位品酒师给产自全球各地的26种雷司令（从每升0.92克至每升207.5克）样酒确定甜度，以检测雷司令酒口感度（the Riesling Taste Profile，从味淡依次到不太甜、中度甜最后到甜）标准的实际效果。我们事先看了国际雷司令基金会所制订的异常复杂的标准指南：即除了残余糖分外，酸度以及pH值（酸碱度）会对酒有何影响。其中一位品酒师是温迪•斯塔基(Wendy Stuckey)，她负责产自华盛顿州圣米歇尔酒庄、异常畅销的雷司令酒。她坦承他们这些品酒师在决定如何用精准的雷司令口感度来比对每一款酒时，并没有把规则当回事，而是根据实际口感下鉴定。
I’m not sure average consumers can be bothered with comparing nuances of gradation. They probably just want to know whether a wine is dry, medium dry, medium sweet or sweet – and many consumers will already be prejudiced against any wine not in the first category. This is a great shame since many delicious fine white wines taste a little sweet, though, thanks to counterbalancing acidity, are far from cloying. I have listed some of my favourites on page 37.	我不知道普通消费者是否会不厌其烦地使用这些彼此之间差别不大的口感度标准。他们可能只想知道某款酒是不甜、不太甜、中度甜还是甜——许多消费者已经对第一等级品牌以外的酒产生了偏见，这的确令人感到非常遗憾，由于酸的中和作用，许多口感好的上乘白葡萄酒略带甜味，那种享受难以言表。我在下面列举了自己最喜欢喝的几款葡萄酒。
The only trouble with medium dry and medium sweet wines is working out how to serve them. If, like a German Kabinett and Spätlese, they are low in alcohol, they may well be too light to stand up to anything other than the most neutral white fish dish and are best drunk on their own. But whites such as the richer examples from Austria and Alsace, medium dry Chenins made in the image of Vouvray and Tokaji have quite enough body to accompany food and can be delicious with rich shellfish, creamily sauced savoury dishes and smooth pâtés.	不太甜与中度甜葡萄酒唯一的问题是如何与菜肴搭配得当。如德国珍藏酒(German Kabinett)与晚秋清甜酒(Spätlese)的酒精度很低，酒味淡，只能搭配味道最为中性的白鱼喝，而且最好是自斟自饮。但产自澳洲及阿尔萨斯、仿照沃莱(Vouvray)与托卡伊(Tokaji)酿制的白诗南（Chenins，不太甜）等酒味醇厚的白葡萄酒则是很好的佐餐酒，搭配很难消化的贝类海鲜、厚汁类可口菜肴以及滑爽的肉酱，再惬意不过了。
--------------------	简希丝品酒经验
Jancis’s picks	从不太甜的酒到中度甜酒
Medium dry to medium sweet	以下几款白葡萄酒比干白的酒味要醇厚得多
These whites taste richer than bone dry.	•南非斯瓦特兰地区(Swartland )2010年酿制的马利诺酒(Mullineux)售价为15英镑
• Mullineux 2010 Swartland,	• 西班牙Sierras de Málaga地区2008年酿制的Botani Moscatel Seco酒售价为11英镑
South Africa	• 匈牙利托卡伊地区(Tokaj)福尔明酒庄(Estate Furmint)2008年酿制的István Szepsy酒售价为20英镑
£15	• 阿尔萨斯辛特—鸿布列什酒庄(Dom Zind Humbrecht)2008年酿制的Turkheim雷司令酒售价为19英镑
• Botani Moscatel, Seco 2008 Sierras de Málaga, Spain	• 澳大利亚法兰克兰河(Frankland River)法兰克兰酒庄(Frankland Estate)2010年酿制的史密斯•库伦雷司令酒(Smith Cullam Riesling)售价为28英镑
£11	• 奥地利坎普谷(Kamptal)赫希酒庄(Hirsch) 2009年酿制的海利根施泰雷司令酒(Heiligenstein Riesling)售价为25英镑
• István Szepsy, Estate Furmint 2008 Tokaj, Hungary	•德国莫泽尔地区路森博士酒庄酿制的Ürziger Würzgarten酒与晚秋清甜酒售价均为16英镑
£20	卢瓦尔河谷(Loire)沃莱酒庄2008年酿制的Huet与 Le Mont Demi Sec酒售价均为23英镑（由哈罗盖特精细酒业有限公司(Harrogate Fine Wine Co)出品，电话：01423 522270）。由白诗南(Chenin Blanc)酿制的沃莱酒或许是最原汁原味的微甜白葡萄酒，各款Huet酒就是最好的明证。
• Dom Zind Humbrecht, Turkheim Riesling 2008 Alsace £19

A Mexican Revolution 墨西哥菜：从街头小吃到高档美食

It is a blisteringly hot day in Oaxaca, the gastronomic capital of southern Mexico, and the brightly hued streets are quiet with lazy dogs and closed shutters. However, Pitiona, a smart but simple restaurant located in a restored colonial house on 5 de Mayo St., is still abuzz from a late-lunch crowd. Bottles of aged mezcal are lined up behind the bar─this is the home of the distilled, smoky agave spirit after all─and some are being passed around.

Run by chef José Manuel Baños Rodríguez, who worked at El Bulli in 2007 before returning to his hometown, Pitiona (www.pitiona.com) takes traditional Mexican dishes and adds its own modern refinements, while also incorporating pre-Columbian ingredients.

Small ceramic spoons carry delicate foam that conceals ants lightly fried in chili. A salad arrives smoking, with the curls forming around crisp lettuce leaves and tomatoes. The aroma of chipotle emanates from a steaming bowl of black-bean soup, as spheres of string cheese explode in the mouth. Pork comes with a rich chichilo mole, in which the sauce ingredients have been gently charred, lending it an earthiness. For dessert, a chocolate tortilla comes cigar-shaped, concealing xoconostle (a type of cactus) marmalade.

While Mexico is famous for its sensational street food and home cooking, it is only relatively recently that chefs, like Mr. Rodríguez, have been adding a gourmet touch to the traditional cuisine.

'We have the best ingredients around the world. Now we can lead the revolution with great restaurants,' says Mr. Rodríguez, who plans to open a similar restaurant in InterContinental's Presidente hotel in Mexico City in June. 'We are now able to prepare food a little more technically, more sophisticated,' he continues. 'We need to show the world that it is more than just home cooking.'

In Mexico City, at Azul Condesa (azulcondesa.com), in a converted house in the hip neighborhood of Condesa, the power dinner is in full force. Every time a new group enters, it takes them a good 15 minutes to get to their table, once the full rounds of air kissing have been completed. It isn't just the social hub; the food is outstanding.

Ricardo Muñoz Zurita, one of the country's most famous chefs, has spent the past 20 years trying to change the way Mexican food is perceived. His first restaurant, Azul y Oro, which opened 12 years ago in a culinary school, was one of the first gourmet Mexican restaurants in the country. Now, with Azul Condesa, which opened in 2011, and Azul Histórico (azulhistorico.com), which opened in January, he spends months trawling the far reaches of the country, researching regional dishes and bringing them, along with the local ingredients, back to his own restaurants.

Presentation is key. Here, a ceviche is served in a perfect circle, topped with diced avocado, framed with a delicate soy, lime and orange-juice sauce. Organic hibiscus-flower enchiladas are served with a gloriously pink tomato and smoky chipotle sauce. A little pillow of sea bass comes with a delicious pumpkin sauce, offering a little kick at the end thanks to a habanero chili. Dessert is a delectable soursop mousse, with black sapote and raspberries. Exotically named fruits, vegetables and spices jump at you from every menu page.

'In the past when you studied cooking here, it was all international cuisines, but now things have changed a great deal and they are finally teaching about Mexican food,' Mr. Zurita explains, attributing the revolution in gourmet cuisine to the metamorphosis in Mexico's cookery schools. 'This means that now there is a new generation of chefs in the country who are educated in the ways of Mexican cuisine and it is changing the scene.'

Changing that emphasis has allowed chefs to rediscover the diversity of local ingredients, such as chili, which don't have to be hot to be tasty. 'We have to give the chili a chance to perform,' Mr. Zurita says. 'A lot of people think chilies are only hot and spicy, but they have wonderful flavors and some are very mild. Unfortunately, the image of the country is that we are eating chilies all the time.'

To prove his point, Mr. Zurita spotlights a different ingredient or dish each month, from mole to mangoes to food from a specific region, such as the Yucatán or Tabasco.

Different is also what customers get at chef Enrique Olvera's gourmet restaurant Pujol (pujol.com.mx), in the smart neighborhood of Polanco, where the dishes are works of art. Here, the prosperous and international set arrive in dresses and vertiginous heels; hair is big and wallets are bulging.

The meal starts with an earthenware pot with hickory smoke pouring out of the top. Inside, beautiful, smoked mini-corns bathe in coffee mayonnaise and ant powder. Tasting menus come with Mexican wines or mezcal and beer. In the seafood tasting menu, a shrimp taco appears as a paper-thin layer of avocado wrapped around a spiced shrimp interior. An oyster is served topped with a rosemary flower and a gentle foam of vanilla. A lemony tortilla comes with thin slices of chili-marinated snook (a type of white fish) and topped with pineapple salsa; it is a posh take on street food, and eaten in the same way─with the fingers. Some of the dishes are traditional Mexican with a twist; others are international cuisine with a Mexican spin.

Nearby, inside boutique hotel Las Alcobas, chef Martha Ortiz is causing something of a stir with her gourmet restaurant Dulce Patria (dulcepatriamexico.com), where dishes showcase the diversity of the country's huge array of ingredients.

Her restaurant is feminine and flooded with light, with pretty arrangements of gladioli and cacti on the tables. Squash-bloom soup comes with toasted almonds, poblano chilies and turmeric cream. Duck is served in a rich mole negro, with a banana leaf and corn-flavored rice. Not for the fainthearted, a grilled red and green salad comes with Oaxacan string cheese, epazote (an herb native to Mexico) and a liberal sprinkling of grasshoppers. Desserts are equally inventive: A creamy mamey (a Mexican fruit) custard features gold leaf and red carnation preserve.

'It has taken a long time to get to this stage,' says Ms. Ortiz, who was born into a family of artists and intellectuals, and first studied political science before realizing her passion lay with food.

'We didn't have Mexican restaurants before,' she says. 'We had cantinas and international restaurants. Until recently, it was a poor country.'

Across the board, these chefs say the national psyche has shifted. 'Everyone used to cook, but now it is a working society more than ever, so people won't go home for lunch,' Mr. Zurita says. 'And when you go out, you don't want that food. People want something different.'

Ms. Ortiz agrees. 'People here have started feeling very proud, as food is culture,' she explains. 'My dream is that now people all over world will start recognizing the prestige and beauty in our food. It is Mexico's time.'

JEMIMA SISSONS

7 sexy skinny dips in Asia

Seven spots in Asia where clothing is just a chore

By Cynthia Rosenfeld 8 October, 2010
While plunge pools pervade in Asia, very few allow us to disrobe entirely without embarrassing exposure. Here are seven of the most private, most luxurious places to ditch the bathing suit for maximum skinny dip satisfaction.
Also on CNNGo: 15 more sexy skinny dips

1. Phuket Pavilions, Thailand

Roll straight from bed into the wet spot, a deep 40 x 13 foot infinity pool outside each Andaman Sea-facing villa at Phuket Pavilions where the motto “no tan lines, no interruptions” means exactly that for couples yearning for none other than each other.
Stealthy staff live up to that promise, delivering service without a sound. That includes poolside massages where silently giggling female therapists know to leave guests to create their own happy endings.
Raid the maxi-bar stocked with Veuve Clicquot and Hagen Daaz ice cream.
US$629 per night; thepavilionsresorts.com/phuket-home

2. River House, Sri Lanka

Forget breakfast in bed. Wake each other up in the Menik Suite’s east-facing plunge pool as the sun rises over the coconut palms dappled across Sri Lanka’s River House.
Raise each other’s body heat well above the water temperature then slip back inside to climb atop the pillow strewn four-poster bed.
One dominates each of five antique-filled rooms at this inland retreat on the Madhu River, three hours’ drive south of Colombo’s international airport.
The ancient Greeks didn’t call this island Serendib, Garden of Eden for nothing.
From November to March, play Adam and Eve around this seven-acre slice of tropical paradise, luring one another upstairs and back into the buff.
US$373-485 per night; www.anilana.com

3. Banyan Tree Lijiang, China

High Naxi tiled walls encourage undressing with abandonment inside the pool villas at Banyan Tree Lijiang some 7,900 feet above sea level.
Outside of May to August when seasonal fields of rhododendrons reach full bloom, expect to raise a few goose bumps while streaking into these pools that are heated but not too hot for a good frolic.
Come up together for air in the shadow of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, the climax of this Himalayan panorama.
US$618 per night; banyantree.com/en/lijiang/overview

4. Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan

With every rattle of a palm frond, it is hard not to wonder what other creatures are taking pleasure in this dense bamboo jungle.
That and the occasional screams of rafters thrusting along the otherwise Sacred Ayung River are the only sounds to intrude upon the privacy of each villa at Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan.
All 42 thatched maxi-huts come with an outdoor shower that overlooks the river valley and a plunge pool that releases itself endlessly into the jungle’s steamy abyss.
Nudists notwithstanding, no one need fear overexposure. Farmers on the other bank are nearly naked themselves and too far away to make out the state of play.
US$680-850 per night; Fourseasons.com

5. Trisara, Thailand

Size matters at Trisara on Phuket’s northwest shore where all 39 villas are well endowed for maximum pleasure.
When the urge arises, all glass French doors open onto a longer than average, 10-meter cerulean plunge that appears to drip into the Andaman Sea, seen at its best from December to March.
No swimsuits or cover ups required, thanks to a profusion of jungle foliage expertly tended by 30 Thai gardeners that turn each of these outdoor playpens into secret sanctuaries.
Scattered about are piles of towels to dry each other off before interlacing still damp limbs on the roomy double sun bed.
Between diving in and winding down, get your hands wet and sticky by feeding each other from the villa’s daily replenishment of aphrodisiac chocolate truffles and luscious Thai mangoes.
US$600-1,230 per night; trisara.com

6. Taj Exotica Maldives

Artificial pools would be a ridiculous addition to the swimsuit and bikini-dropping gorgeousness of the Maldives.
The couple’s treatment in the Alepa Suite at the end of a private jetty is as the name of this Taj property suggests; exotic.
Before exposing delicate skin to sun, guests at Taj Exotica can build up to swimming in the buff with four different hot and cold experience showers, and seaside sun beds with Maldivian herbal mud-loving therapists plying their trade.
After being slathered in mud and loosened up on cocktails and exotic fruit snacks, its time to grab the pretty gal or studly guy, drop the pretense and swim with the lion fish and wrasse (don’t worry gents, your better bits won’t be a main target of the local wildlife.)
US$800 per night; tajhotels.com

7. Soneva Gili, Maldives

Had Robinson set sail with Mrs. Crusoe in tow, he might have gotten lucky and washed up at Soneva Gili in the Maldives.
Balanced on stilts above a shallow lagoon, the Robinson Crusoe Residences are the seven most photogenic over-water villas ever to take the character's name.
With the closest neighbor at least 1,000 feet away and no sign of the butler unless requested, couples are left entirely alone. Splash around the Indian Ocean or even snorkel naked among damsels and Oriental Sweet Lips.
US$1,593 per night; sixsenses.com

Best Dim Sum in Hong Kong - WSJ

 

City Hall Maxim's Palace is a ballroom-like restaurant decorated with crystal chandeliers and white carved-wood screens─not the most obvious spot for breakfast, yet totally in character for dim sum. I arrived relatively early, hoping to beat the Sunday morning rush, only to find the enormous room already full of eager diners.

I was, after all, in Hong Kong, a city where eating ruffled siu mai dumplings, pork buns and meatballs early in the day is as much of a way of life as having an afternoon cup of tea is in Britain. As I waited (and waited) for a table, I could hear though the open doors the clinking of china and the chatter of families enjoying brunch.

Finally, I was seated at a linen-draped table. As I gazed out at the boats crossing Victoria Harbour, a waiter appeared with a silver pot of jasmine tea. More servers came, pushing steaming carts piled with baskets of plump har gow, shrimp dumplings in delicate wrappers; cheong fun─tender rice-noodle sheets─tucked around minced beef flavored with scallion and preserved orange peel; and fatty, sweet spare ribs. I grabbed a helping of everything that looked good, savoring a meal that seemed to capture the very essence of the city.

Maxim's is arguably the most famous dim sum spot in town, a 32-year-old restaurant in the middle of packed Central district that serves classic Hong Kong-style dishes to locals and visiting dignitaries. It's far from the only place to find traditional bites: Dim sum is served in upscale hotels and back-alley tea shops, in tourist traps overlooking the harbor and the basements of shopping malls. But in Hong Kong little stays the same for long, and in recent years chefs have begun taking fresh approaches to native-style dim sum, bringing a dash of extra excitement to a meal that wasn't exactly lacking in popularity in the first place.

Dim sum as we know it developed in Guangzhou, the cultural and commercial center of southern China, in the 18th and 19th centuries, said Maria Tam, an anthropologist at the Chinese University of Hong Kong. Back then, businessmen would meet in teahouses in the late morning to yum cha (drink tea). The restaurants originally served up simple snacks, but as the city grew, they began competing for customers by improving the variety and quality of their dishes.

The practice also became popular in Hong Kong, where chefs followed Guangzhou's culinary lead. In the 1940s, when mainland China closed itself off from the rest of the world, chefs in British-controlled Hong Kong began developing their own dim sum styles. They emphasized smaller portions, lighter ingredients and more elegant presentations. They also incorporated Western techniques such as baking, developing now-classic dishes like baked pork buns and sweet egg tarts. Over time, chefs began to include dishes from other parts of the country. (Shanghainese soup dumplings, for instance, were popular with émigrés who had fled the communist revolution.) They added foods associated with holidays and festivals, like rice and meat wrapped in lotus leaves, part of the early summer dragon boat festival, said E.N. Anderson, author of 'The Food of China.' Along the way, dim sum evolved into a family affair, becoming popular for breakfast and brunch.

Though dishes like shrimp dumplings and egg tarts are what most Westerners think of as dim sum, many locals still enjoy the old Guangzhou style, which is served at a number of restaurants. The oldest and best of these is Lin Heung Tea House, which opened in 1923. The restaurant is packed every day with locals reading the newspaper, drinking astonishingly strong pu'er tea and eating dishes heavy with roasted, fatty meats.

'Dim sums used to be bigger, heartier dishes that people ate to keep them full for a hard day of work,' explained Amy Ma, a local food writer and former Wall Street Journal staffer, when she introduced me to the restaurant. Dishes like pork and shrimp dumplings topped with a hard-boiled quail egg are so popular that diners will crowd around as soon as carts enter the dining room.

'A handful of high-end restaurants have been incorporating top-shelf ingredients, including foie gras and morel mushrooms.'

Some chefs have begun reviving old techniques, creating updated versions of the kinds of dishes offered by Lin Heung and its peers. Chef Pui Gor of Tim Ho Wan, a cheap, hole-in-the-wall, dim-sum-only restaurant with a cult following, makes a contemporary version of a bean curd skin roll, filling it with light shrimp rather than the traditional fatty minced pork. He nods to the past with a dessert called 'chicken oil pancake,' which uses lard and evokes old menus that often used 'chicken' in the names of dishes (even meatless ones) because it was considered a delicacy.

A handful of high-end restaurants have also been incorporating top-shelf ingredients, including foie gras and morel mushrooms. One of the best examples is Lung King Heen, the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, where chef Chan Yan Tak has added duck liver and black truffles to pork dumplings, and invented new dim sums, like abalone baked in a cup of flaky puff pastry. The dish is so popular, he said, that he hasn't been able to take it off the menu since he opened six years ago.

Most of these restaurants have made another big change in how dim sum is eaten: They've done away with serving trolleys, mainly to give chefs more control over cooking and presentation. 'Already steamed dim sums that were put on a steamer to keep warm would end up overcooked,' Mr. Chan explained.

With the quieter atmosphere that has resulted, Hong Kong's businessmen have rediscovered the joy of making deals over dumplings. Dim sum has become popular for business lunches again, bringing the tradition back to where it started.

The Classic

City Hall Maxim's Palace

The glittering ballroom at Maxim's, with its view of Victoria Harbour, is a timeless place to experience trolley dim sum. This is the spot for familiar dishes like fried shrimp wontons, baked buns stuffed with sweet roast pork and steaming bowls of congee (rice porridge). Be prepared to wait for a table, and leave plenty of time for a leisurely meal so you can try a little of everything. City Hall Low Block, 2nd Floor, Central; 852-2521-1303

The Empire Builder

Mong Kok Lei Garden Restaurant

This restaurant boasts branches across Asia, but the original location, a cozy space with brick walls and thick carpet on the Kowloon side of the city, is still the best. It provides an elegant, traditional meal, despite the absence of trolleys. Try the turnip-filled pastry puffs, which is one of the best dim sums in the city, as well as the excellent Shanghai-style soup dumplings and smashed cucumber in garlic sauce (pictured). 121 Sai Yee St., Mongkok; leigarden.hk

The Old Faithful

Lin Heung Kui

This utilitarian eatery, crowded with glass-topped tables and low stools, is an extension of a Hong Kong favorite that has been around for nearly a century. The real treats are old-fashioned Guangzhou specialties like dan siu mai (a dumpling topped with a boiled quail egg) and ma lai gao, a lightly sweetened steamed cake made from a yeast starter that the restaurant has been cultivating for decades. 2-3/F, 46-50 Des Voeux Rd. W., Sheung Wan; 852-2156-9328

The Ugly Duckling

Fu Sing Shark Fin Restaurant

It's a favorite of local expats despite (or maybe because of) its kitschy light fixtures and gift-wrap-like wallpaper. Fu Sing offers Cantonese twists on old dishes, like taro-filled spring rolls with a clove-scented dipping sauce and soft cubes of tofu topped with minced melon and shrimp. (Deep-fried bean curd pictured.) 1/F Sunshine Plaza, No. 353 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai; 852-2893-0881

The Posh Plate

Lung King Heen

The logic behind this restaurant's three Michelin stars is evident in everything from the delicate china and attentive wait staff to the jewel-like quality of each dumpling. For the best experience, ask for a table overlooking Victoria Harbour. Try one of everything on the short menu, focusing on innovations like steamed lobster and scallop dumplings (pictured), and finish with a sweet snack from the dessert list. 4/F, 8 Finance St., Central; fourseasons.com/hongkong

The Holdout

Luk Yu Tea House

Seventy-nine-year-old Luk Yu retains the elegance of an old Parisian brasserie, and its food is equally old-school. Skip the recognizable dishes, which can be poorly prepared, for traditional recipes like the hearty steamed chicken bun, crispy fried dumplings with sweet-and-sour sauce and sponge-like fish balls topped with chicken and crab roe. 24-26 Stanley St., Central; 852-2523-5464

The Divine Steal

Tim Ho Wan

Often referred to as the 'world's cheapest Michelin meal' for its one star awarded in 2009, this tiny dim sum specialist filled with laminated tables is so popular that guests often wait upward of two hours to order the flavorful turnip cakes and superb fried roast pork buns. Dishes are served on red-and-black plastic dinnerware and cost as little as $1.50. Luckily, the restaurant has opened two new branches, in Central and Sham Shui Po, where most of its signature dishes are also available. 2-20 Kwong Wa St., Mongkok; 852-2332-2896

BITE CLUBS: A sprinkling of great dim sum joints across the U.S.

Atlanta

Canton House

It's a bit out of the way in North Atlanta, but Canton House wins local devotees with its wide variety of dishes and solid service. 4825 Buford Highway, Chamblee; cantonhouserestaurant.com
Houston

Fung's Kitchen

A more upscale dim sum restaurant─no snap-to-separate chopsticks─with a selection fans say is fresh, hot and delicious. The roasted duck is especially beloved. 7320 Southwest Freeway #115; eatatfungs.com
New York

Jing Fong

Expect to use your fingers here─not to eat, but to point, since English is not the dominant language at this massive Chinatown establishment. 20 Elizabeth St.; jingfongny.com
San Francisco

Ton Kiang

This spot isn't the cheapest or most adventurous dim sum restaurant in the Bay Area. But it makes up for that by serving dim sum all day long. 5821 Geary Blvd.; tonkiang.net

GEORGIA FREEDMAN

Singapore Beats Hong Kong in Competitive Cities Ranking

香港的长期较量中，新加坡再得一分。

Bloomberg

在新加坡拍照的游客。

花旗集团(Citigroup Inc.)委托经济学人智库(Economist Intelligence Unit)做出的研究报告显示，在经历了多年的爆炸式经济增长之后，这个东南亚城市国家现在已成为亚洲最有竞争力的城市──世界排名第三，仅次于纽约和伦敦。根据经济学人智库的报告，排名靠前的城市最有能力将资本、人才、旅游者和企业吸引到城市中心，并且是最宜居的城市，拥有健康的文化氛围。

当然了，香港仅以微弱的差距排在第四位。东京排第六。但是炫耀地区榜首位置的权力仍然属于新加坡，毫无疑问它在吸引更多投资的过程中也会大力渲染这个头衔。

拥有政府背景的智库机构新加坡宜居城市研发中心(Singapore’s Centre for Liveable Cities)执行理事邱鼎财(Khoo Teng Chye)说，新加坡一直是允许人才、思想、资本、商品和服务自由流动的开放的中心。

邱鼎财的分析毫无疑问会让许多活动人士不以为然，后者认为，为了营造更稳定、更宜商的环境，新加坡限制了公众意见的表达和个人自由，相应地也就限制了思想的自由交流。但是无论怎样，调查至少证实了越来越多的人所持有的观点，那就是，新加坡即便不是在亚洲创业、经营和居住的最佳地点，也至少是最佳地点之一。

专家说，事实上，这个城市国家的居民最大的抱怨之一也正是它在全球具有如此大的吸引力和竞争力的部分原因，那就是相对开放的移民政策。新加坡的全球吸引力排名第四，分析人士说，这个排名至少有部分原因在于政府为保持国家对外资和外来人口开放所制定的政策。

新加坡的规划者还有另一个秘密武器：对新加坡环境质量的坚持。报告中说，这一点让新加坡成为世界上最宜居的地方之一，也让这个城市国家成为人才和资本的首选目的地。尽管一些居民和游客对其限制吃口香糖和规定绿化和停车场比例的做法嗤之以鼻，这些政策和其他类似的政策造就了这个城市国家的吸引力。

邱鼎财说，新加坡具有前瞻性的可持续发展方式与其他城市“先经济增长后治理环境”的做法形成了鲜明对比，包括香港。他说，把一切希望都建筑在快速的经济增长上，这对长期发展是有害的。到达了一定程度之后，他们就会意识到污染过于严重，最终让移民和投资者掉头而去。

尽管西方存在种种经济问题，报告显示，美国和欧洲的城市在整体上仍然是最有竞争力的，尽管亚洲城市在全球拥有最强的经济实力。全球经济实力最强的20个城市有15个在亚洲，其中12个在中国。

中国城市天津、深圳和大连在经济实力上排名靠前，印度城市班加罗尔和艾哈迈达巴德分别排在第16和19位，越南的河内排名第20。尽管北京的综合竞争力排名39，远远落后于纽约和伦敦，但经济学人智库的研究预计，从现在到2016年，排名前32位的亚洲城市将会以每年至少5%的速度增长，未来几年的排名可能会因此发生改变，因为美国和欧洲城市的经济增长仍停滞不前。

Shibani Mahtani

Mixing High and Low in Beijing

Single-malt, 18-year-old Scotch mixed with bottled green tea, anyone?

The concoction ─ the subject of many a nightlife horror story by visitors to China ─ isn't as popular as it used to be, but it remains an apt metaphor for Beijing's nightlife, which prefers its high with a splash of low.

That distinguishes the city from the more Westernized Shanghai. 'In Shanghai, it's about how much money you can spend,' says Leon Lee, a San Franciscan who owns bars in both Shanghai and Beijing.

'Beijing is edgier, a little rough around the edges,' he adds. 'It's more fun to go out in Beijing.'

As money and mixologists have streamed into the city, its upscale options have grown. Start by checking out Sanlitun, Beijing's preeminent drinking district. Once a sweaty Babylon where shadowy figures tried to beckon male visitors to 'lady bars,' Sanlitun is now home to Nali Patio, a six-story, Mediterranean-themed courtyard complex that houses several bars and restaurants.

Here, the main attraction is Apothecary, a sleek, third-floor speakeasy. Run by Mr. Lee, its extensive drinks menu doubles as a cocktail-history textbook and includes an expertly executed Old Fashioned (with optional bacon-infused bourbon) and an Earl Grey martini made with handcrafted bitters and topped with whipped egg whites. Prices are reminiscent of Manhattan, but so is the quality.

Other Nali Patio options include Enoterra, a welcoming wine bar on the fourth floor, and Migas, a Spanish restaurant and bar with an industrial-chic dining room and an expansive rooftop patio.

For a quieter night out, go east of the Third Ring Road to an entertainment district known as Lucky Street. There you'll find Mokihi, an unassuming Japanese whiskey bar located on an upper floor along the southern end of the street. Bypass the main room for the back area, where bartenders ply their trade in a room lined with bottles of single-malt whiskey and infused liquors. If you're hungry, order a plate of Wagyu sashimi from K's Kitchen next door, and pair it with a wasabi martini.

To go deeper into Beijing's soul, head inside the Second Ring Road to Dongcheng. An older part of the city, Dongcheng is one of the last repositories of the city's beloved hutong ─ maze-like alleyways where history, politics and culture brush up against each other to fascinating effect.

Few nightlife spots epitomize that better than Yugong Yishan, a music venue inside a complex that once housed the government of warlord Duan Qirui. It hosts everything from punk rock shows to film screenings to underground rebel bingo and keeps its patrons well lubricated with cheap Tsingtao.

A few kilometers away is Gulou Dongdajie, a street teeming with pubs, guitar shops and vintage clothing stores that serves as Beijing's answer to San Francisco's Haight Ashbury neighborhood. In a courtyard house tucked away in an alley, you'll find Amilal, one of the favorite haunts of the city's expatriate literati. Run by a Mongolian photographer who uses the space to host exhibitions of his friends' work, it's an excellent place to decompress after taking in a live show.

Another hutong option is Mao Mao Chong, a five-table bar that does a steady trade in China-themed mixed drinks such as the Maojito, a gingery take on the Mojito, and the Jing Fling, a cocktail based on China's not-for-the-faint-of-heart baijiu liquor.

If you're still going strong at midnight, two after-hours destinations, Lantern and Haze, beckon. Lantern, run by Beijing electronic-music label Acupuncture Records, ministers to heaving weekend crowds. Haze caters to hipsters and offers the added late-night challenge of being located at the bottom of one of the city's most perilous staircases.

Apothecary, Third floor, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Tel.: 86-10-5208-6040
Enoterra, Fourth floor, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Tel.: 86-10-5208-6076
Migas, Sixth floor, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Tel.: 86-10-5208-6061
Mokihi, Third floor, C12, Lucky Street, Tel.: 86-10-5867-0244
Yugong Yishan, 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu, Tel.: 86-10-6404-2711
Amilal, 48 Shoubi Hutong, south 66 Gulou Dongdajie, Tel.: 86-10-8404-1416
Mao Mao Chong, 12 Ban Chang Hutong, Tel.: 86-10-6405-5718
Lantern, 100 meters north of Workers Stadium West Gate, Tel.: 86-135 0134 8785
Haze, A101, Guanghua Lu SOHO, 22 Guanghua Lu (basement of On the Corner Cafe), Tel.:86-10-5900-6128

Josh Chin

Mokihi酒吧是在北京扎根的众多日本威士忌酒吧中的一个。注重细节令这家店与众不同。

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8年单一麦芽苏格兰威士忌加瓶装绿茶，有人想尝试一下吗？

这种奇特的搭配曾是许多来中国的游客夜生活恐怖遭遇的一个主题，现在它虽然不像以前那么流行了，但用来比喻北京夜生活依然再合适不过。北京夜生活的特点就是雅中带俗。

这点将北京与更为西化的上海区分开来。在上海和北京都开有酒吧的旧金山人里昂•李（Leon Lee）说，在上海，重点在于你有多少钱可以花。

他接着说，北京则更刺激，有点锋芒毕露；北京的夜生活更好玩。

Ann Waddell for The Wall Street Journal

图片：酒吧里的北京夜生活

随着越来越多的财富以及调酒师涌入这个城市，高消费选择变得更多了起来。从北京名气最响的三里屯酒吧区说起吧。这里曾是乌烟瘴气的奢靡之地，一群群面目模糊的家伙试图拉男性游客光顾“小姐酒吧”。现在，那里花园（Nali Patio）进驻了三里屯，这是一个地中海主题的六层庭院式建筑，其中有好几家酒吧和餐厅。

这里最有名的是位于三层的时尚酒吧Apothecary，老板就是里昂•李。其品种繁多的酒单同时也是一本鸡尾酒历史教科书，其中包括行家调制的古典鸡尾酒（Old Fashioned，也可选择用培根波旁酒来调制），还有一种伯爵茶马提尼，由手工苦酒制成，上面覆盖一层鸡蛋清打成的泡沫。这里的价格与曼哈顿相差无几，品质也相当。

在那里花园还可选择位于四层气氛友好的Enoterra酒吧，以及西班牙餐吧米加思（Migas），后者拥有一个工业酷感风格的就餐区以及宽敞的屋顶露台。

如果喜欢安静些，可以前往东三环一个名叫好运街的娱乐区。在那里你会找到低调的日本威士忌酒吧Mokihi，坐落在好运街南端一栋建筑的楼上。穿过大厅，后头是一间摆满单一麦芽威士忌和泡酒的屋子，侍者们在忙碌地工作着。如果肚子饿了，可以从隔壁的K’s Kitchen要上一盘和牛刺身，然后配上一杯芥末马提尼。

如果想更深入了解北京的夜生活灵魂，就要去二环内的东城。作为比较古老的一个区，东城是北京最后的几个胡同聚集地之一。在这些深受人们喜爱、迷宫似的小巷里，历史、政治和文化互相融合碰撞，产生了极为神奇的效应。

没有哪家夜店能比“愚公移山”更好地诠释这一点了。这是一个演艺酒吧，坐落在段祺瑞执政府旧址内。酒吧举办从朋克摇滚演出到电影放映到地下叛逆宾戈（underground rebel bingo）在内的各类活动，价格低廉的青岛啤酒让顾客喝得酣畅淋漓。

几公里外就是鼓楼东大街，这条街上布满了酒吧、吉他店和古着店，感觉就像是北京版的Haight Ashbury（旧金山的嬉皮区）。Amilal酒吧隐匿于巷子里的一个四合院内，它是旅居北京的外国文人雅士最喜欢光顾的地方之一。经营者是一位蒙古摄影师，他在这里为朋友的作品举办展览。这是看完现场演出后放松的好地方。

还有一个胡同里的好去处是“毛毛虫”，这是一家只有五张桌子的酒吧，专门提供中国主题的混合饮品，比如从传统莫吉托改良而来的“毛毛虫莫吉托”，还有Jing Fling，一款用中国烈性白酒调配而成的鸡尾酒。

如果你在深夜依然精力旺盛，那么灯笼俱乐部（Lantern）和Haze俱乐部这两家深夜营业的酒吧就是不错的选择。灯笼俱乐部由北京知名电子乐乐队“针刺疗法”（Acupuncture Records）经营，每逢周末就人潮涌动。而Haze则专门针对时尚人士，到达酒吧需要下全北京最危险的一段楼梯，这为深夜光顾的人们增添了挑战性。

Apothecary：三里屯北路81号那里花园3层，电话：86-10-5208-6040
Enoterra：三里屯北路81号那里花园4层，电话：86-10-5208-6076
米加思（Migas）：三里屯北路81号那里花园6层，电话：86-10-5208-6061
Mokihi：好运街C12商铺3层，电话：86-10-5867-0244
愚公移山：张自忠路3-2号，电话：86-10-6404-2711
Amilal：鼓楼东大街66号南侧寿比胡同48号院，电话：86-10-8404-1416
毛毛虫：板厂胡同12号，电话：86-10-6405-5718
灯笼俱乐部：工人体育场西门向北100 米，电话：86-135 0134 8785
Haze：光华路22号光华路SOHO A101（转角咖啡店地下），电话：86-10-5900-6128