Wednesday, July 27, 2011

20 Things to do in Shenzhen... that you probably haven't done before

We love Shenzhen. This city of more than 14 million people has long been considered a playground for Hongkongers, where you can haggle over handbags, spend the day getting your nails done, and (if you’re a spiky haired teenager) party the weekend away in one of the city’s many vast nightclubs. But there’s much more to it than triple A-grade copies. With its world-class galleries and several artist villages ranging from original works to top-quality reproductions, there’s tons of culture to be found in the SEZ. Shoppers looking for something far removed from train station squabbles should check out the mega malls, offering everything from homewares to electronics. Regardless of whether you want to hit the spas or try some of the impressive cuisine from all over China, you’ll find it all in our guide to Shenzhen.
By HK staff | published Apr 28, 2011

1. Clamber around on a decommisioned Soviet aircraft carrier

Minsk World

Fans of military history should definitely make a trip out to Minsk World, arguably one of the strangest theme parks you’re likely to find in Shenzhen—and trust us, that’s saying something. Minsk is the name of an old Soviet-era aircraft carrier, which is now docked here as a permanent exhibition space, showcasing various artifacts such as planes, helicopters and PLA machinery. Visitors are free to roam around the flight deck and on certain floors of the vessel. For a small fee, you can even take a boat ride round the starboard side to get a glimpse of The Minsk in all its glory. Staff march around dressed in military-like uniforms, and will stage musical performances throughout the day.
Jinrong Rd, Shatoujiao, 0755-2535-5333, http://www.szminsk.com/

2. Get lost in geek heaven

SEG Electronic Market
SEG is the biggest electronics mall in the area. Be warned that means there’ll be a lot of hawkers out front determined to sell you their pirated software and laptops. Once inside, you’ll find a large variety of more genuine products mostly divided by floors. The first two sell electronic components like switches, tapes and conductors – so stay away unless you’re a serious nerd or in the business. Instead, head up to the third to eighth floors for laptops and computer accessories like hard drives, memory sticks, GPS receivers and MP3 players. On the fourth floor, you’ll find products from big brand names like Samsung and Sony. Be warned: they aren’t necessarily as cheap as those in Hong Kong—some may even be more expensive now considering the rising value of the Yuan. Don’t forget to bargain, bargain, bargain.
46 Huaqiang Bei Lu, Futian

3. Actually walk on some grass

Fairy Lake (Xianhu) Botanical Garden
Beyond the towering shopping malls of Luohu, much of Shenzhen is actually very green and beautiful. For just RMB 20, you can spend the day at one of the city’s best parks. Pack a picnic and wander through the picturesque gardens; cross the Chinese bridges the span the lakes; meander through the labyrinth and gawk at the hundreds of bursting blooms in the orchid garden. Best yet, you can pay homage to one of China’s greatest leader, Deng Xiaoping, by paying a visit to the tree he planted to honor the opening of the park. A stroll around the expansive park hand-in-hand is definitely a treat for couples—no wonder why there’s no shortage of wedding photo shoots here.
Fairy Lake Botanical Garden (Xianhu Zhiwuyuan), No.160 Liantangxianhu Rd., 0755-2573- 8430

4. Trick out your house

Century Furnishings Central Mall
Interior furnishing and furniture fans will enjoy a trip to this sprawling complex of strip malls, split into A, B and C areas (each area is as humongous as our Convention Centre in Wan Chai, so happy walking). Peruse the showrooms of furniture styles, from quaint American country to gaudy, gilt-painted monstrosities straight out of Louis XVI’s palace. For Asian-influenced pieces, there’s everything from antique Qing to modern Chinese minimalism. There are door handles in one wing, ceramic tiles in another. Want Egyptian hieroglyphics on your wall, or a bathroom like a Ming tomb? It’s all there (made in Shandong though). Area C, with all the remarkable designer knockoff lamps, is especially popular with the locals. A word of caution though: while the selection is unrivalled, it’s not particularly cheap. You have been warned.
Shennan Dalu, Futian District, 0755-8731-0111, www.sz-sjzx.com.
Near the Xiangmihu metro station

5. Soak up some culture

OCT Art & Design Gallery

A quintessential part of the OCT Contemporary Art Terminal (O-CAT), this gallery is located right next to the renowned He Xiangning Art Museum. The 3,000 square-meter space, with a modern exterior made of hexagonal glass steel, was renovated from an old warehouse, and is one of China’s most prominent venues to showcase cutting-edge design ideas. Its current creative exhibition, “What’s Next 30×30,” features more than 30 artists and designers including Stefan Sagmeister (Austria), Tsai Ming-liang (Taiwan) and Hong Kong’s Anothermountainman (aka Kung Chi-shing) will run till May 25.
9009 Shennan Rd., Overseas Chinese Town, Nanshan District, 0755-3399-3222, www.oct-and.com

6. Be the boy in the bubble

Shenzhen Culture Park
Like many, we’ve always wondered what it would be like to be a hamster. Hoist yourself into a giant inflatable bubble and run around on the lake at the Shenzhen Culture Park, and afterwards, solemnly vow never to put your pet into a transparent ball again.
Shenzhen Culture Park, Renmin Gongyuan Lu

7. Take a walk along the beaten path

Dongmen Shopping District
For many, the Dongmen shopping district is the only reason to come to Shenzhen. Established 300 years ago and therefore also known as “Laojie” (meaning Old Street—hence the name of the metro station nearby). It’s one of the best places for cheap tech and has a thriving market in DVDs and console games of dubious origins: just USD$0.75 for major console games, and USD$0.90 for a DVD. The next question is whether you can get your bounty back across the border, especially now that police have stepped up custom checks. The choice is yours.

8. Enjoy a little slice of Europe

OCT East

You could lose yourself for days at OCT East—a massive entertainment theme park covering over nine kilometers of lush greenery in Dameisha, a beachy resort town in eastern Shenzhen. Combining two theme parks, three “scenic” towns recreating historical European townships (hence the full name: Overseas Chinese Town), and four resort hotels, a temple and an ancient Mandarin mansion to boot—it’s easy to see why families spend entire weeklong holidays here. For a break from the kiddie rides and swan-shaped paddle boats, go for a game of golf at one of the two 18-hole golf courses, take a dip in the onsite hot springs or unwind with a steaming cup of Chinese tea at one of the many pavilions surrounded by a tea plantation inside the Tea Stream Resort Valley.
OCT East, East Dameisha, Yantian District, 0755-8888-9888, http://www.octeast.com/

9. Relax a bit

Shenzhen Lizhi Gongyuan (Lychee Park)

Shenzhen Lizhi Gongyuan is a quiet botanical oasis in the middle of the city, famed for its beautiful lychee trees and scenic landscapes. Themed gardens, majestic pavilions and lush greenery dot this sprawling park, which is home to more than 30 different species of pretty plants. Besides the plump and juicy lychee trees, you’ll also be able to find ferns and cocoa plants at Lizhi Gongyuan. The gorgeous Lake Lihu is accessible at the southern edges of the park, with quaint little bridges and pathways built across. Lizhi Gongyuan is a breath of fresh air after a tiring shopping excursion, or even a reason on its own for a visit to the city.
1001 Hongling Zhong Lu, Futian District, 0755-8209 5655

10. Sink a couple of pitchers

The Kingway Beer Garden
Local beer Kingway is brewed in Shenzhen, and unusually for a Chinese beer, a) there’s no formaldehyde in it and b) it’s drinkable. And at this open-air beer garden behind the brewery itself, the beer is sold by the pitcher, and incredibly cheap. It’s a beer garden-cum-hawker center, with some decent basic food available to those who want it – but the beer definitely takes pride of place in between the satay sticks and the dice games. If you stay late enough, it’s a sure bet that your drunker-than-you neighbors will come over and start toasting you for any reason at all. Getting there is a taxi ride and a bit of luck, as it’s actually in a large open space surrounded by buildings, but go down the alley to get there and you’ll see a motley collection of chefs shucking the scallops you’re about to eat.
1 Buxin Dongchang Lu, Luohu, 0755-2551-6328

11. Ride the rollercoasters

Happy Valley

Shenzhen’s answer to Ocean Park, Happy Valley is a massive amusement park divided into nine zones: Sunshine Beach, Shangri-La Woods, Typhoon Bay, Goldmine Town, Playa Maya Water Park (open in the summer only), Happy Times, Mount Adventure, Spanish Square and Cartoon City. There are more than 100 amusements here, including several large rides that are not for the faint-hearted—many of which have been brought in from overseas. Our personal favorite is the river rapids ride, where you don a raincoat and get pelted with other visitors armed with water cannons as you pass by. There’re also the obligatory street-side performances to watch out for, including acrobatics, extreme sports, break dancing and magic displays. Entrance is RMB170 for adults and RMB85 for children over 1.1 meters tall. Kids shorter than that go in for free.
Overseas Chinese Town, Nanshan District, 0755-2694-9184, sz.happyvalley.cn

12. Learn some history

Splendid China Folk Village

At the 30-hectare Splendid China Folk Village, you’ll be able to see China’s cultural treasures in miniature version, all in one place and ready for you to explore at RMB120. Reduced at a scale of roughly 15:1, the replicas of landmarks such as the Great Wall of China, the Forbidden City and the Imperial Palace are now conveniently available in Shenzhen’s own Futian district. Tombs, caves and even Buddha structures from different corners of the country are also on display. Apart from the Miniature Park, Splendid China also houses a Chinese Folk Culture Village showcasing the country’s 56 different ethnic groups. Each group is represented by a beautiful village, and there are dance and music shows daily in each village given by authentic ethnic performers.
Overseas Chinese Town, Nanshan District, 0755-2660-6526, www.cn5000.com.cn

13. Unwind at a mega-spa

Water Cube
Move over Queen Spa: the biggest and brightest relaxation venue in Shenzhen’s formidable lineup of mammoth massage parlors is the Water Cube. Located right next to Lok Ma Chau station, Water Cube offers a full range of spa treatments and facilities, all in brand spanking new and (relatively) classy surroundings. Relax in the vast indoor Jacuzzi, take a private bath or simply go for a foot massage. You can even get your hair cut, enjoy a round of mahjong, have a full-on Chinese banquet or even shoot some pool—all while wearing a snazzy set of PJs, of course.
1-6/F, Gangchenghuating Building, Yunong Village, Futian District, 0755-8329-6666, http://www.slfspa.com/

14. Get your drink on

Coco Park Bar Street
A shopping complex in the city center, Coco Park is one of the hippest spots in town. Besides countless shops and restaurants, the entire east side of Coco is a bar street with massive open-air drinking areas, popular among youngsters and expats in town. You’ll have no problem finding bars of different styles and vibes; get some friends together and there will be a sizzling party that goes from a quiet post-dinner catch-up to after-midnight mayhem.
Fuhua 3rd Rd., Futian District

15. Get a portrait

Dafen Art Village

If your walls at home are looking plain and drab, forget the generic “pebble” paintings you get in Ikea—hop in a cab and head out to the Dafen Art Village. Consisting of several blocks lined with galleries and workshops (some of which serve excellent coffee), this is the place to come for oil paintings for just about any occasion. You’ll find many reproductions of modern Chinese artworks (some wouldn’t look out of place in a Hollywood Road gallery) as well as abstract pieces, replicas of works by everyone from Da Vinci to Liechtenstein, paintings suitable for kids’ bedrooms and landscapes—in short, there’s something for just about everyone. Don’t see something you like? You can have a painting commissioned based on a photograph or picture. Always wanted a six-foot high painting of yourself riding a horse? Here’s where you’re gonna get it. Prices are extremely reasonable too—we decorated our whole house with paintings from here—some of them four-foot high—for just RMB900.
Longgang, Buji (say “Dafen Youhua Cuun” to your taxi driver; it should take about half an hour from Luohu in a cab)

16. Go nuts for knickknacks

Light Industrial Products City (Yizhan Centre)
Give your home a revamp by heading to mega mall complex Yizhan Centre for some stylish knickknacks and decorative items. These large multi-level shopping towers have virtually everything, from cushions, lamps, crockery and accessories to whimsical pieces, such as a life-sized horse sculpture donning a lampshade as a hat. There’s one floor dedicated to top-quality silk flowers; another to vases and other pieces that wouldn’t look out of place in Indigo. Be sure to keep your eye on the prize because you can easily get lost in the maze of shops. Unlike Luohu, shopkeepers here are much more friendly and easygoing, but be sure to haggle down inflated prices. For the best way to get there, join a daytime shopping tours organized by the Australian Association of Hong Kong (www.ozhongkong.com, 2530-4461). They start the journey from a meeting point in Central and shuttles shoppers directly to the house wares district (near Liyuan Lu and Meiyuan Road) by coach. If you’re done with the decor, the Association also offers organized tours for Dafen Artist Village. Besides picking up a trolley full of goodies for the house, there’ll also be some lovely ladies to spend the day with.
Yizhan Centre, Meiyuan Rd., Luohu District, www.yizhanzx.com

Dine in a swanky restaurant

The importance of Shenzhen as an economic hub has seen an explosion of high-end hotels in the past few years. With the hotels come world-class restaurants where you can treat yourself after a long day trudging around the city. Here are some of our favorites.

17. Belle-Vue


This restaurant is all about the gorgeous view (the “Belle-Vue,” if you will). This European restaurant has two separate areas, The Living Room and The Library, which are a bastion of Grand Hyatt luxury in the middle of Shenzhen; chefs can prepare your meal tableside at one of their cooking stations, and, this being China and all, there is a wide range of wines to choose from to impress your guests. Alternatively, end your weekend on a high note with a luxurious Sunday champagne brunch. Made-to-order, chefs bring delectable dishes, like their sinfully creamy lobster bisque, right to your table.
37/F, Grand Hyatt Shenzhen, 1881 Baoan Nan Rd., Luohu District, 0755 2218-7338

18. China Spice


At China Spice you’ll be able to find specialty dishes from each unique province in China and also fusion creations like Cantonese delicacies with a hint of Sichuan and Chiu Chow. Herbal and healthy medicinal soups are part of the restaurant’s prestigious repertoire, and you can enjoy them in a traditional or contemporary brew depending on your preference. Private dining rooms are available for intimate gatherings.
4/F, Four Points by Sheraton Shenzhen, 5 Guihua Rd., Futian District, 0755-8358-8655

19. Paletto


Enjoy this fine Italian dining experience in Ritz Carlton. Renowned Italian chef Massimo Miglietta cooks up authentic Italian dishes with a modern twist. Choose from a gourmet selection of antipasti, pizza, pasta, grilled seafood and a variety of regional dishes. You should try their two delicious features, wagyu beef tenderloin with black pepper crust, Savoy cabbage, sauteed and creamed potatoes, and the whole wheat chitarra spaghetti in lobster sauce, while you’re there. The restaurant is elegantly decorated with a contemporary touch.
2/F, Ritz Carlton Shenzhen, 116 Fuhua San Rd., Futian District, 0755 2222-2222

20. Shang Garden


Think bistro-style Cantonese dining in a comfortable and laid back atmosphere and you’ve got Shang Garden, Fu Tian Shangri-La’s pride and joy. Headed by chef Anthony Dong, the restaurant serves authentic Huaiyang and Cantonese fare such as their signature steamed egg white with crab roe and double-boiled beef soup with Chinese yam, medlar and red dates (we highly recommend the red dates stuffed with glutonous rice for dessert!). You’ll also be able to enjoy classic, all-you-can-eat dim sum for lunch or a-la-carte in the morning.
Futian Shangri-La, 4088 Yi Tian Rd., Futian District, 0755-2151-3835

David Tang: From connections come corrections

David Tang
 
 
With friends in high places, the founder of ICorrect.com can afford to push a unique celebrity website

With friends in high places, the founder of ICorrect.com can afford to push a unique celebrity website

  • The Guardian,


  • Eye on the prize ... David Tang has spent weeks drumming up support from the likes of Bianca Jagger for his online venture ICorrect Photograph: Linda Nylind for the Guardian
    Sir David Tang is incredibly well-connected, as anyone who doesn't already know is likely to discover within minutes of meeting the billionaire businessman, socialite and, as of last week, would-be internet entrepreneur. The gregarious restaurateur, born in Hong Kong but educated in England from the age of 13, slips in an account of a recent conversation with Henry Kissinger seconds after settling back in his comfortable chair at a central London members' club to discuss his new website, ICorrect.com. "I would say to Henry Kissinger – as I did – look, people will ask in generations to come, did you bomb Cambodia legally or illegally?" he recalls.
    To be fair to Tang, who sold his fashion chain Shanghai Tang to luxury goods group Richemont in 2006, name-dropping has become something of an occupational hazard. He has spent weeks drumming up support for his venture, which gives the rich, powerful and influential a platform to respond to online slurs – for a $1,000 a year fee. "Only I know all these people and I have to go and see every one of them," he explains. "For the last two months I have seen every single person, from the most powerful to the most read and talked about to the most controversial."
    Tang has smooth-talked or strong-armed many of them into becoming ICorrect members (or "correctors" as he prefers to call them). Bianca Jagger signed up and used the site to explode the myth that she rode into the infamous New York nightclub Studio 54 on a white horse semi-naked. ("I briefly mounted the horse, dressed in a full-length red Halston dress.") Tony Blair's former chief of staff Jonathan Powell, Michael Caine and Stephen Fry have also used the site, which launched earlier this month.
    ICorrect is easy to use, although it is currently populated almost exclusively by Tang's friends and acquaintances. An allegation or assertion is set out on the right-hand side, and a celebrity riposte posted next to it. Imagine a virtual version of a graffiti-strewn school toilet, with innuendo and gossip scrawled on the walls – only with space set aside for a right of reply from targets.

    All hearsay

    When Tang met Kissinger, the former US secretary of state told him to read his autobiography, as he had addressed the Cambodia question in the book. Tang, who does a passable impression of Nixon's former aide, waving his cigar around as he does so, retorted that no one will do so in the future. "The only filing system there is is this parallel space we call cyberspace," he says, and the information that exists in it, "is all hearsay. And that is the problem. If you don't correct things and you just leave them they will repeat themselves again and again and again. And that's it."
    That is hardly a new phenomenon but Tang says public figures can now set the record straight for a small fee rather than resorting to the libel courts or the Press Complaints Commission. "If you're somebody to be reckoned with, [the annual fee] is how much it would cost to ring up the solicitor and ask them to write a standard letter."
    Tang hopes the site will make money almost immediately as celebrities, sports stars, academics and politicians flock to it. He talks excitedly of global domination. "After I launch it in America I will go to China, Spain, France, Hong Kong. I'm going to have an Arabic [version]." Once he reaches a critical mass of users he believes he can sell members' details to companies who will pay handsomely for access to the world's most exclusive address book (apart from his own). "It will become the first luxury brand on the internet. That's the value, that's the potential."
    It is tempting to dismiss ICorrect as a rich man's folly, a hobby for a semi-retired businessman whose companies run themselves (Tang is the exclusive Asian distributor for Havana cigars and owns the China Tang restaurant in London's Dorchester Hotel). Is this really a viable business proposition? Wikipedia is free, after all, and well-known figures – or their PR advisers – are free to visit the site and correct misinformation, while Twitter and Facebook allow celebrities to communicate directly with their public, managing their reputations in real time.
    Tang dismisses Wikipedia on the basis that inaccuracies and untruths can be reinstated as well as removed. "Twitter is very impulsive and impermanent," he adds, "and you only have 140 characters. There is no greater 'Emperor' of Twitter than Stephen Fry. He went on ICorrect [and] he goes on for a long, long time. These are serious people who want to go on and explain themselves." Tang concedes well-known figures could use their own websites to right perceived wrongs, but says they are reluctant to do so. "Madonna wants to sell songs and concerts, not to engage in controversies about how she adopts African children. The Prince of Wales wants to promote his good works, not [talk] about the fact that he is a bit crazy talking to plants or eating seven boiled eggs for breakfast. There is a case for setting the negative aspect of your life apart and containing it; [putting it] into a corner to deal with it."

    Politicians next

    Tang hopes corporations will also sign up – paying $5,000 a year – and points out that Chelsea Football Club, sports management group IMG (which represents Tiger Woods and Roger Federer) and Norman Foster & Partners have already done so. "These are not insubstantial companies," he notes. He is targeting politicians next. His overheads are low, and so he reckons 500 members will be enough to cover his costs. He thinks ICorrect, in which he is the sole shareholder, will make a small amount of money this year.
    Tang insists he is not seeking vengeance against the media: "It wasn't out of frustration." He says he has never complained to a newspaper, although he knows most of the editors, naturally. The "socialite" label irritates him because he stopped going out when he turned 50. "It's better than being called a paedophile," he reflects. "I suppose for 25 years I did go out."
    When pressed, Tang says he believes journalistic standards have fallen, although he could simply be afflicted by a form of selective myopia that seems restricted to the wealthy and powerful, a condition that grows worse when a sufferer's friends and associates are written about regularly. In any case, does he really trust the rich and famous, people he describes as "prima donnas" and "divas", to tell the unvarnished truth on his site?
    He says it might not matter, providing there are no fakes – new members must prove they are who they say they are – and no inflammatory or libellous content. "We are not in the business of policing the content, except that obviously I would be entirely stupid if I didn't monitor either defamation or incitement to crime.
    "You have to be slightly careful about accepting controversial figures," Tang muses. "If you ask me, would I accept Nick Griffin or Gary Glitter – probably not, because I can do without the hassle." When asked if allowing propaganda to be published on ICorrect unchallenged would undermine the credibility of the site and embarrass him personally, Tang begins to rant about the long list of despots who have been the guests of the Queen.
    "They all rolled up in open carriages up the Mall, stayed in Buckingham Palace, and they were entertained regally by ... Her Majesty. And afterwards they all go mad, or we discover they were [mad all along]. But that's part of life. What can we do?"
    Bar any dictator from using the site, perhaps? "Yes, but let's say Gaddafi wanted to join ICorrect tomorrow and it all turns out to be bullshit. It could actually form a very valuable piece of information for historians and psychologists," Tang argues unconvincingly.
    He believes celebrities might even use the site to indulge in acts of contrition. "It could also become [a forum for] apologia. If I were Naomi Campell I might well have said I should not have used the word 'inconvenient' in the Charles Taylor [trial in the Hague]." Americans love apologia, he says, his eyes lighting up at the prospect. "You need Tiger Woods to say 'I'm very sorry, I shouldn't have done this'." That may be fanciful, but Tang is convinced ICorrect will give many well-known figures the opportunity to have "the final word".

    Curriculum vitae

    Age 56
    Education The Perse, Cambridge, University of London (BA Hons Philosophy)
    Career 1983 lecturer, Peking University 1985 executive, Algy Cluff 1989 director, First Pacific 1990 founder and chairman, China Club Hong Kong 1995 founder, luxury clothing company Shanghai Tang 1996 becomes exclusive distributor for Cuban cigars in Canada and south-east Asia 2003 adviser, Tommy Hilfiger USA, Asprey & Garrard, Savoy Hotel Group 2011 founder, ICorrect

    Sir David Tang's heaven and hell

    Sir David Tang, Heaven and hell
    Sir David Tang receives his knighthood from the Queen 
    2:43PM BST 18 Apr 2008

    Which was your best holiday?
    My best holiday was probably my 50th birthday in August 2004. Fifty of my favourite friends came to Bhutan from all over the world. That each of them bothered to make the difficult journey put me on a high.
    The sun shone most days, and we were always cooled by the evening showers. Overall, it was a perfect balance between our urban sensibilities and a spiritual sense of the wilderness.
    And the best hotel you have stayed in?
    The best modern hotel in the world is Amanjiwo in Yogyakarta, Indonesia. This is the only faultless hotel I have been to and it happens to be the most beautiful hotel built in recent times. It's next to Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in the world.

    The best classic hotel is Villa Feltrinelli at Lake Garda, because Bob Burns, when he took it over, understood everything about what a grand hotel should be. The bathroom in the best suite is the best in the world – the shower is unparalleled in the universe.
    What do you need for a perfect holiday?
    Both exercise and rest are essential. Sitting by the pool all day, inert, is boring. Not sight-seeing is boring. Not getting one's physical condition fit during a holiday is boring. Eating and drinking and smoking too much is also excruciatingly boring. If you do boring things during a holiday, then you feel absolutely awful at the end of it.
    What do you always take with you?
    I always take a PG Wodehouse for laughs and the poems of TS Eliot (and a reference book so that I can finish off my annotations to his erudite and pretentious references!). I never forget to bring some Mozart and Scriabin and Mahler for the ears and Barry Humphries's wondrously clever anthology of 1930s classics.
    Where do you want to go next?
    I want to sail from Hong Kong to Shanghai, into the Whampoa River up the Soochow Creek and be moored off the Bund (the embankment) for a couple of nights. I am arranging to charter the Kalizma, on which Richard Burton proposed to Elizabeth Taylor, which is in the East, but we must wait for calm seas as the East China coast can be rather rough.
    What's your best piece of travel advice?
    The best advice I can give on travel is to avoid airports at all costs – unless you go private. The commercial airport is now so utterly ghastly with unimaginably rude people who pass themselves off as "security officers". Their pettiness makes me cringe with rage.

    ...and disasters?

    Which was your worst holiday?
    My worst holiday was in the Sri Lankan capital, Colombo, whose colonial past had degenerated into sheer collapse, unlike that of neighbouring India. It was a depressing anti-climax when I was expecting much.
    The worst moment was when I went to a casino and was unceremoniously escorted out by the manager. I had psoriasis on the back of my hand and they had detected it on their cameras. They accused me of being a leper and infecting their customers. Later that night I dined with the Prime Minister and his wife and she also had psoriasis, so I recommended that they enlighten their people.
    And your worst experience on holiday?
    A terrible thing happened to me when I first arrived in Nairobi years ago. I was asked if I had had the yellow fever injection. I hadn't, but joked that I didn't need it because I was yellow. The pun was not appreciated, and I was bunged into a cell for a couple of hours. Rather unpleasant, I have to admit.
    What's the biggest packing mistake you've made?
    I always pack too many books, being greedy on choice but I always end up only reading 25 per cent of them.
    Which is the worst hotel you've stayed in?
    The worst hotel I have stayed in is one off Eaton Place in London. The space, the food, the service... all too dreadful for words.
    What do you avoid on holiday?
    I avidly avoid crowds.
    What do you hate about holidays?
    I hate it when I know that there are only two days left. I also then hate having to decide what I should send out for laundry. Do I take it home or not? Such a boring question and immensely taxing.
    • Sir David Tang is a Hong Kong businessman.

    A life in the day: David Tang

    From

    May 20, 2007
    The entrepreneur David Tang OBE, 52, was born in Hong Kong. His businesses range from the ultra-chic boutique chain Shanghai Tang to aviation and gold-mining. He has two grown-up children from his first marriage, and lives in Hong Kong with his wife, Lucy



    I wake at 5.45am with four dogs on the bed: Hot and Cold, our westies, Chilly, a big labrador, and Hemington — a cross between a labrador and a cocker spaniel. I check the time on my Ball watch — it fluoresces in red, blue and green. I buy pyjamas from Charvet in Paris, who embroider “Do not disturb DT” or “DT sleeping” on the pocket. The most luxurious thing is to change your fine Egyptian-cotton pyjamas and sheets each day. I go to my study, where I’m very spoilt. My housekeeper brings me orange juice, fruit and coffee made with freshly pulverised Colombian beans. Every other day she adds a touch of cardamom to sharpen the taste. In the loo, I switch on the BBC World Service.
    Sitting at my desk, I watch Sky News and read the South China Morning Post, Herald Tribune and Financial Times. I don’t have a laptop — I’ve never touched a mouse in my life — but this summer I’m launching an internet company. I check my BlackBerry for e-mails and go through the papers delivered from the office the previous night. I’m meticulous about answering e-mails within 24 hours. One of three secretaries — she’s the Lara Croft of dictation — deals with my business matters. On January 1 the government banned smoking in offices.
    I smoke Punch Double Corona Cabinet cigars, cut in half, and hardly go to the office any more. I’d rather be at home.
    The next three hours, from 9 to 12, are my time. I shower using Kiehl’s plainest shampoo and Roger & Gallet soap, sitting on a built-in seat with water raining down on me from a huge shower head. I say hello to Lucy, then get on my cross-trainer. We love to crack a joke in the morning, but we’re competitive about keeping fit. In the last 18 months I’ve lost 35lb. Wherever I am in the world, my office faxes crosswords from the Telegraph and Times. I make a start on the easier Telegraph, aiming to finish as much as possible in the 35 minutes I’m on the cross-trainer. Then I do weights, with an opera DVD playing on screen.
    When I came to England at 13 I hadn’t heard of Mozart, Bach or Beethoven. Now classical music is an integral part of my life. I own a 9ft Steinway grand. There’s no point having anything less, especially if you’re not good. I’m working on the last movement of the Moonlight Sonata. I get terribly cross knowing I don’t pay enough attention to fingering. We amateurs are very sloppy on fingering. I’m lucky to get half an hour at the piano. The phone rings constantly. My businesses — apart from Shanghai Tang, restaurants and clubs — have involved oil exploration, cigars and gold-mining. I’m doing many things, including a new hotel. And I’m president of the Hong Kong Youth Arts Foundation and founder chairman of the Hong Kong Cancer Fund and Down’s Syndrome Association. In autumn 2005 I begged the government to take on one or two young Down’s-syndrome people in the civil service. After six months, I’d heard nothing. Now triumph! The government has employed two Down’s-syndrome youngsters at the post office.
    I have lunch in one of my two Hong Kong places: the China Club or Cipriani. Then I have meetings, which I hate.
    I travel a great deal, giving speeches every other week. I’m chairman of a company selling private jets, and I have generous friends who might lend me a plane or let me hitch a ride. If I have to fly commercial, I use British Airways Special Services. I just take a briefcase. I have clothes in most of the places I go — suits made by Welsh & Jeffrey, tailors to Eton. I didn’t go to Eton, but my mother always said people will think you did if you wear suits by their tailor.
    As a child I adored my grandmother, but my grandfather was a nightmare. He founded the Kowloon bus company and became one of Hong Kong’s greatest philanthropists. When we grandchildren wanted to see him, we had to go through his secretary. Then the Chinese Almanac had to be consulted. When my father, barely a year old, was very ill, my grandfather was alarmed at the prospect of the premature death of his only son. To comfort him, my great-grandmother — believing my father would die — lied to him out of kindness. She told my grandfather he shouldn’t grieve because the family soothsayer had said my father would blacken his life. He miraculously recovered, but it was too late. My grandfather considered his son as one who must not be near him, lest his own life become adversely affected. So he sent him away with my grandmother and never asked to see them again.
    I’m grateful to have a lifestyle I enjoy. But I wouldn’t go crazy if I were to lose it tomorrow. I can cook. I could go to the supermarket — the most hideous thing — and I know how to use the launderette. Since turning 50 I’m not as sociable. By 5pm I want to be home with Lucy, my books, poetry and my piano. Our cook makes dinner — Chinese, Indian or European. Unless it’s to the cinema, I hate going out. I used to buy the two seats in front of us so no big heads got in the way, but Hong Kong’s cinemas are better now, so I’ve stopped.
    I read and go to bed late. Before I go to sleep I watch 24 or a bit of crap on television. Lucy and I laugh a lot. But as we slide into those newly ironed crisp sheets, both of us say: “Thank God.” We live in fear that this can’t last. Something is going to go wrong

    Thursday, July 7, 2011

    葡萄酒餐吧走红伦敦

    Sunday, June 19, 2011

    What must I do before I die? 什么是人生必须做的事?

    By Antonia Macaro and Julian Baggini
    Published: May 20 2011 23:04 | Last updated: May 20 2011 23:04
    The Shrink
    There are scores of books recommending places to see, books to read, music to hear, golf holes to play or watercourses to fly-fish before we die. There are even dedicated websites that assist people in ticking items off the list. You might agree that this sounds a bit excessive. But aren’t we all under an ill-defined pressure to do, see and experience more? And aren’t we all accompanied by a vague sense of inadequacy if we realise we’re not keeping up?
    It is sadly true that our time on earth is limited, and we’d be well advised to avoid wasting it. It has been said that instead of getting through our days doing routine things on autopilot, we should engage in new and uncomfortable experiences. These stretch our perception of time and, in a sense, our life. Then there is the research that tells us that people are happier when they spend their money on experiences rather than objects.
    But we shouldn’t absorb this cultural pressure unquestioningly. How many new experiences we engage in and how often we do so should depend on our personality, values and situation. Spending our time well doesn’t always equate with doing more.
    For a start, if you rely on novelty to keep life interesting, you risk ending up on a perpetual treadmill, always seeking the next thrill. We should also consider the possibility of restoring some sparkle to routine things by doing them more mindfully. While a certain amount of novelty can certainly be valuable, there are other goods – simplicity, contentment and the savouring of small everyday pleasures. A rich life can be one in which a few things have been experienced deeply.
    The answer to the question of what must we do before we die, by the way, is “nothing”. Like everything else, diversity of experience will become oppressive if taken as a “must”, even if you’re the kind of person who thrives on it. We don’t have to do anything, although we might choose to do many things. On the other hand, we might just find it more satisfying to watch the blue tits in our garden, like we have done so many times before.
    The Sage
    The race to do as much as possible before we reach our expiry date is rooted in a justifiable desire to experience life in its fullest intensity, squeezing out as much from each second as is possible. However, as the Danish existentialist Soren Kierkegaard acutely observed, the end result of this is often a life that is empty, not full. It becomes like trying to drink from a constant flow of champagne with a sieve for a glass. The present always eludes us: the moment we try to grasp it, it has already become the past.
    The problem is that there is a real sense in which we are trapped in what Kierkegaard called the “aesthetic” sphere of existence.
    Life is a present-tense phenomenon: we can recall the past and anticipate the future but can only be in the here and now. But that is only half the story. In another sense, we do indeed exist over time as well as at a time, through our memories, intentions and projects. Life in this “ethical” sphere requires us to attend to more than just the thrills of the moment. As any common hangover will remind us, living only for today can cause a headache tomorrow.
    The person who heeds the modern imperative to do as much as possible before she dies risks becoming the Kierkegaardian aesthete par excellence. She may know that every moment has immense value, but does she know how to value it? Even the best moments of pleasure take on a different value, depending on where in a life story they come. The enjoyment of a great meal, for instance, is not just a function of chemicals in the food interacting with taste buds. It can make a big difference, even to how flavours are sensed, when, where and with whom the meal is savoured.
    It is certainly true that we need to make the most of the short, fleeting life we have. However, to do that requires savouring the journey along the passage of time, not just making as many stops along the way as possible.
    The Shrink & The Sage live together in south-west England
    什么是人生必须做的事?
    安东尼娅•马卡罗, 朱利安•巴吉尼 , 为英国《金融时报》撰稿 2011-06-13 (www.ftchinese.com)
    神经医生
    有许许多多的书,推荐一生必游的地方、必看的书、必听的音乐、必打的高尔夫球场球洞和飞钓必去的水域。甚至还有专门的网站,帮助人们把“必做”名单上的项目一一勾掉。你也许也会认为这听上去有点儿过分了。然而,我们都在承受着一种莫名的压力,要去做、去看、去经历更多,不是吗?如果意识到自己落后于他人,我们都会怀有一种隐隐的不称职感,不是吗?
    我们在世的时间是有限的,这是个令人遗憾的事实;因此不要浪费时间是个好建议。有人说,与其像开启了自动驾驶一样天天重复着同样的事情,我们不如投身于新的、不那么自在的体验。这样做能够拉长我们对时间的观感,并在某种意义上拉长我们的人生。此外,有研究表明,人们在体验上花钱,比买东西时更愉悦。
    但我们不应不假思索地接受这种文化压力。投身于多少种新体验、多频繁地投入,应由我们的性格、价值观和处境所决定。好好利用时间,并不总是等同于做更多事。
    首先,如果依赖新奇感来保持生活的趣味,最终可能踩上一部永不停止的跑步机,永远在追寻下一个刺激。我们应该也思考一下是否有可能通过多花些心思,让日常事务在某种程度上重放异彩。当然,一定程度的新奇感会是有价值的,但生活中还有别的美好事物——简单、满足感、对日常小乐趣的玩味。深刻地体会少数几样事物,也可以构建一个丰富的人生。
    顺便说一句,“什么是人生必须做的事”,这个问题的答案是:没有。跟所有东西一样,当多样化的体验变成一种“必须”时,它也会变得令人难以忍受,即便你是那种喜欢多姿多彩生活的人。没有什么必须做的事情,不过我们可以选择去做许多事情。但另一方面,可能我们就是觉得,观察自家花园中的青山雀更有意思,就像以往多次做过的那样。
    圣人
    在“大限”到来之前,争着尽可能多做些事,这植根于一种合乎情理的渴望:将人生体验到极致,尽可能从每一秒中挤出更多内容。然而,如丹麦存在主义者索伦•克尔恺郭尔(Soren Kierkegaard)敏锐的评论:这样做的最终结果,常常是导致一个空虚、而非圆满的人生。这会变得如同试图用筛子当酒杯,去接不断流出的香槟。当下会始终躲避着我们:在我们试图抓住它的那一刻,它就已经变成了过去。
    问题在于,在某种意义上,确实可以说我们被困于克尔恺郭尔所谓的“审美(也称伦理、宗教)”层次的存在。
    生活是一种“现在时”的现象:我们可以回忆过去,或展望未来,但只能活在此时、此地。但这只是问题的一方面。从另一个意义上来说,我们既存在于一个时点,也确实存在于一段时间——通过我们的记忆、意向和规划。这种“伦理”层次的存在,要求我们不能只关心当下的刺激。就像宿醉带给我们的启示那样:只管今天快活,明天就会头痛。
    听从“趁活着的时候必须尽量多做些事”这种现代要求的人,可能会成为杰出的克尔恺郭尔式审美家。她也许知道,每一刻都非常珍贵,但她是否知道如何衡量每一刻的价值?甚至连最开心的那些时刻,取决于它们在人生经历中所处的位置,价值也互不相同。就拿一顿美餐来说,它带来的享受,不只是食物中的化学成分发挥作用、与味蕾互动而产生的。时间、地点、共同品味食物的人,都会导致大不相同的感受,甚至会改变口中食物的味道。
    当然,我们短暂、稍纵即逝的一生的确需要好好利用。然而,好好利用,需要我们在时间的长廊里细细品味人生旅程,而不只是沿途停靠尽可能多的站点。
    精神科医师与哲人一起居住在英格兰西南部

    男性必备的经典行头 A Bespoke Checklist for Every Man's Closet

    A Bespoke Checklist for Every Man's Closet
    2011年 06月 08日 08:02
    London's Savile Row has been home to the city's top tailors for almost three centuries. These days, however, the bespoke tradition is under threat 伟 due tohigh rents, a dearth of tailoring talent, and a decline in customer numbers.

    Among those that have felt the pinch is Anderson & Sheppard, a 103-year-old firm whose suits have been worn by Prince Charles, Noel Coward and Tom Ford. When the lease on its Savile Row space expired in 2005, the firm was forced to move to cheaper premises on neighboring Old Burlington Street (only tailors within 100 yards of Savile Row are allowed to use the name).

    '[In the past,] some [clients] changed three times in the day, and many had valets who would manage their wardrobes. People [now] have less time to build or maintain the perfect wardrobe,' says John Hitchcock, Anderson & Sheppard's managing director, who joined the tailoring house as an apprentice trouser maker in 1964. Mr. Hitchcock isn't giving up on tailoring heritage 伟 Anderson & Sheppard is a founding member of the Savile Row Bespoke Association, created in 2004 to help protect the art of bespoke tailoring.

    We asked Mr. Hitchcock to pick five classic items that every man should have in his wardrobe.

    A navy pinstripe double-breasted suit: A fine navy pinstripe avoids the louder gangster look that some people associate with the double-breasted suit. The double-breasted suit is one of the most flattering garments that a man can wear as it creates a longer line and more defined waist. This hides the stomach and accentuates the chest and shoulders.

    A herringbone tweed jacket in brown, blue or gray: Tweed is the easiest and most classic way for a man to bring color into his wardrobe. Depending on the color and pattern, the jacket can be worn in the town or in the country; with gray flannel trousers or with jeans; with a shirt and with a sweater, and throughout autumn and winter. [Good tweeds are] hard wearing and get better with age.

    Mid-gray flannel trousers with turn-ups: Gray flannel continues to be a favorite with our customers in the creative industry as it has a relaxed feel. These trousers work with most jackets and even just with a shirt and sweater. Avoid belt loops and choose side tabs or brace buttons and a buttonfly. The width of the turn-ups is important, as it is better not to have any rather than thin ones.

    A classic white cotton shirt: Gary Cooper and Cary Grant were champions of the white shirt, as it always looks fresh and elegant. I prefer mine with a semi-cutaway collar, double cuffs and mother-of-pearl buttons. [However] always [get one] without a breast pocket or a button down collar.

    A single-breasted Chesterfield-style navy-blue herringbone overcoat with a matching velvet collar: You can put this over whatever you are wearing; even pajamas, and you will instantly look smart. The real tastemakers in the 1920s and '30s wore theirs very fitted as they knew that the overcoat creates an immediate impression.

    Kristiano Ang


    2011年 06月 08日 08:02
    三百年来,伦敦萨维尔街(Savile Row)一直聚集着这座城市的顶级裁缝师。不过如今这种量身定制的传统却面临威胁,原因是租金高昂、裁缝人才稀缺,再加上顾客数量也日渐下滑。

    Harry Harrison
    约翰·希区柯克(John Hitchcock)
    有着103年历史的老店Anderson & Sheppard就是对此有切肤之痛的公司之一。查尔斯王子(Prince Charles)、诺埃尔·科沃德(Noel Coward)和汤姆·福特(Tom Ford)都曾经是这家公司的客户。2005年该公司在萨维尔街的租约到期,不得不迁到邻近租金较为便宜的老伯灵顿街(Old Burlington Street)(距萨维尔街100码[约91.44米]以内的裁缝才能使用这个街名)。

    Anderson & Sheppard的董事总经理约翰·希区柯克(John Hitchcock)说,过去一些客户会一天换三次衣服,许多人还有专司打理服装的贴身男仆。现在的人没那么多时间去积累或是维护完美的衣帽行头了。希区柯克于1964年加入这家裁缝店做学徒,学习做裤子。他并未放弃裁缝行业的传统──Anderson & Sheppard是萨维尔定制服装协会(Savile Row Bespoke Association)的创会会员之一,该协会成立于2004年,旨在保护服装定制的艺术。

    我们请希区柯克选出每个男人的衣橱中都应当置备的五件经典行头。

    一件海军蓝细条纹双排扣西装:很多人觉得双排扣西装给人一种粗野的感觉,精致的海军蓝细条纹能够避免这一点。双排扣西装是最能衬托身形的男式服装之一,它会让穿着者显得更修长挺拔、也更显腰身。这种款式能够让肚子不那么明显,并突出胸部和肩部。

    斜纹花呢夹克,颜色为棕色、蓝色或灰色:男人要想让自己的衣橱色彩丰富一些,花呢是最简单易行、同时又是最经典的方式。根据颜色和样式的不同,这样的夹克适合于各种场合穿着;它可以搭配灰色法兰绒裤子,也可以搭牛仔裤;配衬衫和套头衫均无不可,而且由秋至冬都能穿。(好的花呢)十分耐穿,而且穿得越久越有味道。

    中灰色卷边法兰绒裤:灰色法兰绒给人一种闲适的感觉,仍然是从事创意产业的客户的最爱。这种裤子可以搭配大多数外套,甚至还可以直接配衬衫和套头衫。不要选择带裤袢的款式,而应该选侧袢或搭肩带扣和系扣裤门。卷边的宽窄很重要,因为窄卷边还不如不要卷。

    经典的白色纯棉衬衫:加里·库柏(Gary Cooper)和加里·格兰特(Cary Grant)穿白衬衫是最出众的,穿在他们身上的白衬衫永远那么干净优雅。我自己喜欢的风格是八字领、双层袖口和珍珠母纽扣。不过一定要有一件不带胸袋、也没有拌扣领的衬衫。

    单排扣长款海军蓝斜纹大衣,带相配的天鹅绒领:你可以把它穿在任何衣服的外面;就连睡衣都可以,然后你马上就会显得潇洒时尚。上世纪二三十年代那些真正的时尚先锋人物穿这种大衣的时候力求合身,因为他们知道大衣会给人留下最直接的印象。

    How to Find a Sense of Style 男人如何找到穿衣风格 男式成衣如何穿出好品位?

    How to Find a Sense of Style
    2011年 05月 03日 08:11
    Q: How does a man find his sense of style?

    A: Good style is easy to recognize, but hard to define. At its best, it should appear effortless and timeless, and it should withstand the whims of fashion's fads.

    Here are a few ideas on how to find your inner sartorial soul:

    1. The books. There are countless titles, but three stand out as good references on how to dress well: 'The Handbook of Style: A Man's Guide to Looking Good' (an entertaining read by the style team from Esquire); 'Dressing the Man' (by Alan Flusser, a designer and stylist whose movie credits include 'Wall Street'); and 'Gentleman: A Timeless Guide to Fashion' (by German writer Bernhard Roetzel, an expert on bespoke tailoring).

    2. The blogs. Check out permamentstyle.co.uk, written by menswear writer Simon Crompton, and thesartoralist.com, a blog composed mostly of photos taken on the street of dapper men and women. Tumblr, the social media tool, is charging into fashion, too, and Asia's own mostexerent.tumblr.com is a great source for classic style tips as well as good design in general.

    3. The dad. Even if your dad favors sweatpants over suits, you're bound to find some gems in his closet. Whether it's a vintage Adidas leather gym bag from when he last played tennis, a skinny plaid tie from his undergraduate days, or a pair of cufflinks that he hasn't worn since his wedding, mine what you can from his dresser. You never know what's there unless you look

    4. The basics. Rebuild your closet from the foundation up. A well-styled man doesn't require much, but retooling your wardrobe requires time and focus. Keep it simple: Start with a good suit, two quality shirts and a pair of well-made oxfords. Once you've found those, you'll gradually develop a habit of dressing well─one that will stay with you for the rest of your life.

    Jason Chow


    :男人如何找到自己的风格品位?

    :好的风格品位很容易被看出来,但很难描述。如能很好地把握,你的穿衣风格应该是浑然天成的,经得住时间考验的,能够抵御流行时尚的冲动。

     下面这些点子有助于你找到心灵的裁缝:

    1.看书:这方面的书籍浩如烟海,但想要穿着得体,有三本不可不看:《风格手册:男士穿衣指南》(The Handbook of Style: A Man's Guide to Looking Good,这本娱乐读物由《时尚先生Esquire》的风格团队打造);《衣冠楚楚:男士完全着装手册》(Dressing the Man,作者是设计师兼造型师Alan Flusser,其作品包括电影《华尔街》中的人物造型);《绅士:终极时尚指南》(Gentleman: A Timeless Guide to Fashion,作者是德国作家、高级定制专家Bernhard Roetzel)

    2.看博客:经常要看的博客包括:permamentstyle.co.uk,博主是男装作家克朗普顿(Simon Crompton);thesartoralist.com,这个博客主要放的是型男靓女的街拍照片;社交媒体工具Tumblr也正在时尚领域发力,亚洲的mostexerent.tumblr.com上可以找到很多经典的穿衣建议以及很多优秀的设计。

    3.翻翻老爸的衣柜:哪怕你的老爸更喜欢穿运动裤而不是西装,你也一定会在他的衣橱里找到一些宝贝。这有可能是一只他以前打网球时用的复古阿迪达斯皮质运动包;也有可能是他上大学时穿的格子窄领带;或是他结婚时佩戴的一对袖扣;尽可能地从老爸的衣橱里挖掘,除非你找过,否则你也不知道里边有什么宝贝。

    4.学习穿衣的基本知识:从最底层开始整理衣柜。一个风格出众的男士并不需要很多衣服,但重新整理衣柜却需要时间和精力。保持简单:一套做工精致的西装;两件材质过硬的衬衫;一双制作考究的牛津鞋。一旦你找到这些基本搭配,你就会逐渐养成得体穿衣的习惯,这种习惯会伴随你的一生。

    Jason Chow



    Looking Good off the Rack?
    2011年 03月 28日 07:46
    After two decades of casual wear and sack suits, the '00s saw a notable movement toward custom-made clothing. Egged on by the success of shows such as 'Mad Men,' tailors on Savile Row have reported marked increases in business in the last part of the Noughties.

    But with bespoke suits from reputable tailors on the Row costing upwards of 2,500 British pounds (about US$4,000), compared with $600 for a suit jacket and trousers from American clothing retailer J. Crew, dressing with flair might seem an unaffordable luxury. Wearing off-the-rack clothing, however, need not be the mark of an ill-dressed man.

    'The mark of a master dresser is a deep understanding of his own physicality,' says Mats Klingberg, managing director of Trunk Clothiers, a London menswear store. With off-the-rack clothing being designed for the masses, this means that finding a good alterations tailor is key.

    Making the sleeves right is especially important; a too-long sleeve is a trademark of the sloppy dresser. Ethan Newton of P. Johnson, an Australian tailor, says that 'a $9,000 suit two inches too long in the sleeve will look like it's worth all of $90.' His solution: 'Whatever you are willing to spend on a [ready-made] suit, allow at least 20% of that figure for alterations.'

    If all you're changing is the sleeve length of a shirt, however, the alterations would cost less. At Iris Tailor in Singapore, cutting three inches off the sleeves of a Z Zegna shirt costs a mere 15 Singapore dollars (US$12), about 7% of the price.

    The right size is important with ties, too, says Michael Hill, creative director at the tie and scarf maker Drakes London, who calls ties 'the very thing that personalizes a look.' Most range in width from seven to nine centimeters, and he suggests men with average frames steer clear of the widest ones; a seven- or eight-centimeter tie is more suitable.

    For the taller man, tie length can be a concern: A 147-centimeter model, which is the standard length at Drakes, can leave too short a tail when knotted up. Such men might find it worthwhile splurging on ties, even if they wear ready-made suits. Mr. Hill says that Drakes, which sells both off-the-rack and bespoke ties, has made ties as long as 180 centimeters. Bespoke ties from Drakes go for 125 British pounds (US$203), with a minimum order of three at a time.

    Picking the right accessories to complement a suit also makes it easier to stand out from the crowd. In particular, pocket squares can help spice up one's look. Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury, a menswear store in Hong Kong, says that 'a basic white linen pocket square is always reliable and always adds a touch of class to outfits.'

    Of course, fold it properly. Silk pocket squares can be stuffed into the jacket pocket in a puff or reverse puff form, but cotton and linen squares, Mr. Chan says, favor folding it into a flat rectangle with 'just a slice of fabric showing', which is called a TV fold since the shape is similar to a TV.

    Knowing your material when accessorizing also helps. Mr. Cho advises changing the buttons from plastic to natural horn to make a suit look less cheap. Mr. Hill says that ties made from premium material, like 50-ounce Royal Twill foulard, for instance, can make outfits look special. 'Despite the apparent simplicity,' he explains, '[the way] a cloth like that [knots] once it has been made completely by hand makes for something very special.'

    However, avoid the temptation to go crazy when accessorizing. According to Patrick Grant, owner of Savile Row tailors Norton & Sons, even bespoke clothing shouldn't be 'about indulging fantasies.' Being well-dressed, says Mr. Grant, who was recently named British menswear designer of 2010, 'does not mean wearing everything bold; it's about careful balance.' This can mean, for example, staying away from five-centimeter skinny ties. While common in the 1960s, they are most commonly associated these days with emo-rockers like Green Day.

    Indeed today, simply having a well-cut suit with no frills makes a statement. Mr. Newton of P. Johnson says that 'to wear a suit now is bucking the trend' because 'Friday casual and branded sportswear no longer says much of someone being an individual and comfortable in their role.'

    Kristiano Ang


    男式成衣如何穿出好品位?
    2011年 03月 28日 07:46
    休闲服和袋型常服流行了二十年之后,从2000年以来出现了定制服装潮。在《广告狂人》(Mad Men)这类大获成功的时装剧的推动下,英国著名裁缝街萨维尔街(Savile Row)的裁缝店称,过去十年的业务量有了显著的增长。

    Scott Olson / Getty Images
    但是,从这条街上有名的裁缝店定制一套西服至少要花费2500英镑(约合4000美元),而从美国服装零售商J. Crew 那里购买一套上衣加长裤的套装只需600美元,这样看来,有品位的着装似乎是一种难以承受的奢侈品。其实,从大批量生产的成衣中选择穿戴也未必就会导致你成为一个着装品味糟糕的男士。

    伦敦男装店Trunk Clothiers 的董事总经理麦茨•克林伯格(Mats Klingberg)称,成为穿衣专家的一个标志是对自己的身体外形有着深刻的了解。由于成衣是为大众设计的,这就意味着找到一个好的改衣裁缝至关重要。

    将袖子修改到合适状态尤其重要;太长的袖子会使人看起来邋遢。澳大利亚裁缝店P. Johnson 的伊森•纽顿(Ethan Newton)称,如果一件花9000美元买来的上衣袖子长了两英寸,就会使这件衣服看起来只值90美元。他的解释是:无论你愿意为一套成衣花费多少钱,至少要准备购衣款的20%作为修改费用。

    当然,如果你只修改衬衣袖子的长度,就用不了那么多钱。在新加坡裁缝店Iris Tailor,将一件Z Zegna 衬衣的袖子剪短三英寸只需花费15新元(约合12美元),大约是衬衣价格的7%。

    领带及围巾制造商Drakes London的创意总监迈克尔•希尔(Michael Hill)称,合适的尺寸对领带来说也很重要。他认为领带能够突显一个人的个性。大多数领带的宽度在七到九厘米之间,他建议拥有中等体型的男士们避开最宽的那种领带,选择七到八厘米的领带比较合适。

    对于个头较高的男士来说,领带的长度可能是个难题:Drakes 店中领带的标准长度是147厘米,当他们系好领带后,剩余的长度可能过短。这些男士可能会发现在领带上多花些钱是值得的,尽管他们穿的是普通的成衣。希尔称,Drakes 既出售批量生产的领带,也出售定制领带,店中所制领带最长可以达到180厘米。Drakes 定制领带的起价为125英镑(约合203美元),客户一次最少要定制三条。

    为西服套装选择合适的配饰也会使你更容易从人群中脱颍而出。尤其是口袋方巾可以使人看起来更有情趣。香港男装店The Armoury 的联合创办人马克•曹(Mark Cho )称,一条基本款的白色亚麻口袋方巾永远是男士们可以信赖的选择,总是可以为你的全套行头加分。

    当然,你首先得把它正确地叠好。马克•曹建议,丝质口袋方巾可以叠成蓬松式或反向蓬松式,但棉麻质地的方巾最好是折成扁平的三角形塞入口袋,仅露出方巾的一角,这种折法叫做“电视机折”,因为折出来的形状类似于一台电视机。

    在使用配饰前了解材质也会对造型有所説明。马克•曹建议将塑胶纽扣改为天然牛角扣,这样能使西服看起来更高档一些。希尔称,使用优质材料制作的领带(例如一条50盎司重的Royal Twill软绸领带)会使整身行头看起来很特别。他解释说,尽管表面看起来很简单,但这种织法的布料一旦被纯手工打造成领带,看起来将会非常特别。

    然而,在使用配饰时要避免过度滥用。据萨维尔街裁缝店Norton & Sons的老板派翠克•格兰特(Patrick Grant)称,即使是定制服装也不应该过分追求奇巧花哨。最近被提名为2010年英国男装年度设计师的格兰特说,良好的着装并不意味着什么都敢穿,而是要达到一种细致的平衡,例如,要避开只有5厘米宽的超细领带。虽然这种领带在二十世纪六十年代很常见,但当时也主要是被绿日(Green Day)这类情绪摇滚乐队所采用。

    事实上在现如今,简简单单地穿着一件剪裁合体、没有褶皱的西服就能体现出一个人的穿衣品味了。P. Johnson的纽顿说,现在穿西服是一种反潮流的行为,因为对一些人来说,周五穿名牌休闲运动服不再能充分体现出个性,不再令他们感到满足。
     

    一生可以拥有的25件奢侈品

    一生可以拥有的25件奢侈品,你拥有了多少?
    1 能背著包包走天下的健康。
    2 舒心的工作 。
    3 起风的天总有人提醒你加衣。
    4 睡著的时候总有人为你盖被。
    5 穿上便宜T恤也很美丽的健康身材夕。
    6 写得一手好字。
    7 想旅行时,总有谈得来的朋友愿意请假陪伴。
    8 每天都能踏实地睡个好觉。
    9 会欣赏美丽的心和能欣赏美丽的心情。
    10 每时每刻都过得有意义和幸福。
    11 一个教会你爱和被爱的人。
    12 你为之甘心付出的伴侣。
    13 心中永远的自由。
    14 带给他人向上的精神特质。
    15 学会放弃。
    16 学会承受。
    17 接受并珍惜上天赐予你的一切。
    18 亲自播种,收穫。
    19 珍藏一件凝聚情感的物品。
    20 寻找失落的童心。
    21 心境开阔。
    22 信守一个诺言。
    23 尝尽有益健康的美食。
    24 偶尔使个小小坏
    25 把你所能想到的一件浪漫的事变为现实。

    How to Stay Cool in a Suit in Summer 夏日清凉商务着装攻略


    2011年 05月 11日 07:37
    With summer approaching, it can be tempting to cast off your jacket and tie.

    This is especially true in Asia, where humidity levels often top 90%. 'Dry heat is usually not a problem,' says Mats Klingberg of Trunk Clothiers, a London menswear shop, '[But] humidity makes it next to impossible [to look] crisp.'

    Here's how to look cool in the heat.

    The right kind of fabric. Technology has made this task easier, says fashion historian G. Bruce Boyer. Today, there are 'hundreds of tropical-weight worsteds to choose from.'

    The Italian label Ermenegildo Zegna, for instance, has developed a 'Cool Effect' fabric made of Australian superfine wool that offers protection against the sun's rays. The material has an exclusive finishing and dyeing process that enables dark fabrics to have almost the same reflective properties as white material. It was used to make casual blazers, formal suits and trousers in the Zegna spring/summer 2011 collection.

    Even traditional fabric houses such as London's Holland & Sherry, established in 1836, are getting into the act. Mr. Boyer is a fan of Holland & Sherry's new 7.5-ounce wool worsted cloth, which he says is 'incredibly light and airy, yet very wrinkle resistant.'

    Lightweight material such as seersucker, linen and cotton are also popular fabrics in hot weather. Indeed, Mr. Boyer, whose book 'Gary Cooper: An Enduring Style' will be published in October, calls them the 'dominant cloths' of summer suits. But he cautions those who work in conservative environments: While these fabrics can be beautiful, they also have a propensity to wrinkle.

    For shirts, cotton is the material of choice. Mark Cho, co-founder of the Armoury, a menswear shop in Hong Kong, recommends trying out cotton in pinpoint weaves that are 'lightly woven and have a bit of texture.' While poplin is a popular choice, Mr. Cho says that the tightly woven cotton may 'stick to the skin a little too easily.'

    Skip the lining. While the lining of a jacket helps it sit better on the body, additional layers will cause you to sweat more, and in sweltering Asian climes, says Mr. Cho, 'every little bit counts.' Check out half-lined or quarter-lined jackets, where only the interior fronts of the jacket are covered, or go with one that's completely unlined.

    Mr. Cho's store stocks several unlined sport jackets that cost between 18,000 Hong Kong dollars and 20,000 Hong Kong dollars (US$2,300 to US$2,600) from Italian clothiers, such as Liverano & Liverano and La vera Sartoria Napoletana. The store also has a two-piece unlined spring/summer suit from Japanese maker Ring Jacket for HK$9,900.

    Keep accessories light. Mr. Boyer says double-shirt cuffs, double-breasted jackets, and thick neckwear should be avoided. Consider an unlined bow tie instead.

    On your feet, single-sole shoes in lightweight leather help tremendously, says Mr. Boyer.

    Also, consider footwear like loafers, split-toe derbies (shoes with open lacing) and brogues in lighter colors, which Mr. Cho says offer a 'good alternative to the traditional blacks and browns' of winter.

    At the end of the day though, simply minimizing your time outdoors is one strategy. Mr. Klingberg, of Trunk Clothiers in London, advises keeping an extra shirt in your briefcase and moist facial tissues.

    When you have to go out, walking on the shady side of the street also helps.

    Kristiano Ang


    天正款款走来,你可能很想脱下西装,扯掉领带。

    在亚洲尤其如此,因为这里的湿度往往高达90%。伦敦Trunk Clothiers男装店的麦茨•克林伯格(Mats Klingberg)说,“干燥炎热的气候通常没问题,但湿热让人很难显得干爽利落。”

    下面是几个让人在炎热天气中依然保持清爽外型的小窍门。

    1、选对面料。时尚历史学家布鲁斯•伯伊尔(G. Bruce Boyer)说,技术进步已让这个选择变得更简单,“现在有数百种热带专用精纺面料可供选择”。

    举例而言,意大利男装品牌杰尼亚(Ermenegildo Zegna)研发出一种名为“清凉效果”(Cool Effect)的面料,用澳洲超细羊毛制成,能抵挡灼人阳光的侵扰。该面料有独特的加工和染色流程,能让深色纤维具备几乎等同于白色纤维的光线反射效果。在杰尼亚2011年春夏款新品中,该面料被用于休闲西装和正式套装上。

    甚至连创立于1836年的伦敦Holland & Sherry等老牌面料商也开始加入这一行列。伯伊尔很喜欢Holland & Sherry新推出的7.5盎司精纺羊毛面料,说它“轻薄透气得不可思议,同时还非常抗皱。”

    泡泡纱、亚麻和棉布等轻薄面料也很适合炎热的天气。伯伊尔写的《加里•库柏:经久不衰的风格》(Gary Cooper: An Enduring Style)一书将于2011年10月出版,他在书中把这些面料称为夏季西装的“主流面料”,但也警告那些在保守办公环境下工作的人小心选择,因为这些面料虽然看上去很美,但容易起皱。

    就衬衫而言,棉布是首选。香港Armoury男装店的共同创始人马克•曹(Mark Cho)建议尝试一下“轻纺并有一点纹理感”的针织棉。虽然府绸很受欢迎,但马克说这种重纺棉可能“有点太容易贴住皮肤了”。

    2、不要衬里。马克说,衬里能让便服西装更贴身,但在亚洲酷热地带,多一层衬里会让人出更多的汗,因此“布料能少则少”。建议选择半夹里或四分之一夹里的,它们只在上衣前片的内侧有衬里,或干脆完全没有任何衬里。

    马克的店里有几款无衬里的运动型便服西装,售价在18,000港币到20,000港币之间(约2,300美元到2,600美元),都是意大利品脾,如Liverano & Liverano和La vera Sartoria Napoletana。该店还有日本品牌Ring Jacket的两件套无衬里春夏款西装,售价9,900港币。

    3、服饰简洁。伯伊尔建议避免穿双袖衬衫和双排扣上衣,太厚的领带也不适合,还是改戴无里布的蝶形领结为好。

    伯伊尔说,至于鞋子,轻质的单底皮鞋会让人感觉很清爽。

    此外,也可以考虑颜色较淡的浅口便鞋、德比鞋和镂花皮鞋,马克说这些是“替换掉冬天传统黑色和褐色皮鞋的很好选择”。

    不过,话说回来,夏日炎炎时尽量减少户外时间也是个不错的策略。伦敦Trunk Clothiers男装店的克林伯格建议,在公事包里多放上一件衬衫和一些湿纸巾。

    实在得外出的话,走在没有阳光直射的道路一侧也能起到一些作用。

    Friday, March 11, 2011

    商务宴该如何请?How To Charm And Do Business Over Dinner

    驭 一场商务宴会不是件简单的事情,不过,一顿成功的晚餐可以令任何一种商业关系得到巩固。三十多年以来,《扎加特餐厅指南》(Zagat Survey)的联合创始人妮娜•扎加特(Nina Zagat)每周都要到纽约那些顶尖的餐厅去吃几次饭,因此就对这类饭局的种种不成文规矩十分熟悉。

    饭 局当中,扎加特的主要目的是让共餐的人——不管此人的身份是同事还是潜在的商业伙伴——对自己的为人更加了解。扎加特现年68岁,《扎加特餐厅指南》是她 和丈夫蒂姆(Tim)的共同产业。她说,商务宴请应该收到这样一个效果,那就是让席间的所有人感到自己参与了一场非常不错的谈话、碰上了一些很有意思的 人、度过了一段美妙的时光。这样的宴会才算得上圆满。

    None
    扎加特和丈夫蒂姆(Tim)
    选定餐厅之前,扎加特会先把共餐者对食物和地点的偏好弄清楚。扎加特的办公室在纽约中城(Midtown),她经常光顾办公室附近的一些餐厅,比如让•乔治西餐厅(Jean Georges)。她说,你得琢磨一下,客人是些什么样的人。

    餐厅里可能会很吵,因此她建议大家选择一些不会把客人搞得声嘶力竭的地方。也就是说,你应该选择那些桌子排得很稀疏的餐厅,或者是那些把大厅分割成了几个小区域的餐厅。

    如果客人比较多,扎加特就不愿意坐在一张长桌子的上首,更倾向于选择圆桌,因为它可以给人一种“包容”的感觉。她说,大家就座之后,主人应该让最尊贵的客人或是商业伙伴坐到自己的右首。如果是两个人单独吃饭,你就直接问对方愿意坐哪边好了。

    点菜的时候,扎加特有一条最重要的原则:在商务宴会上,你不能太强调自我、强调自己爱吃的东西。她举出了一件让她气恼的事情,那就是在吃饭或者点菜的时候,有些人会大谈自己的过敏食物或是其他的饮食禁忌。

    鉴于食物不应该成为商务晚餐的主题,她就不会去点那些吃起来比较麻烦的东西,比如龙虾和义大利面。她还说,不太饿的时候,你完全可以只点半份,也可以提议与客人分享开胃菜和饭后甜点。

    基于同样的逻辑,如果是第一个吃完了自己的饭菜,她也不会让服务生收走盘子,一定要等到其他人吃完。如果其他人没点茶或者甜点,她也会省去这些东西。临时离席的时候,扎加特总是会小心翼翼地把餐巾放到椅子上,不会让餐巾——以及餐巾上可能会有的污渍——晾在桌子上展览。

    扎加特说,点酒水单上最昂贵的酒也可能会招来不必要的注意,让人觉得你存心炫耀。最好的办法是让斟酒员推荐一种中低价位的酒。她说,昨天的晚宴上,我们就对服务生说了句,“你能给我们推荐一种价格不超过X元的酒吗?”,然后又补充了一些其他的限制条件。

    关于聊天的内容,她并没有制订什么硬性的规定。只要不会把场面搞得太过火爆,她连政治都聊。不过,有一种类型的通讯是应该避免的。她虽然觉得在席间拿出移动通讯装置来读短信或者查邮件的做法可以接受,但却从来不会把自己的手机放到桌上,也不会让它振铃。

    扎加特喜欢从闲聊开始,饭吃到相当程度才说起跟生意有关的事情,不会一上来就直奔主题。她的建议是,开始的时候要谈一些轻松有趣的事情,看看别人喜欢什么东西,不要给人留下急不可耐的印象。她说,如果你想谈一些事情,也不要一上来就把它们甩到桌子上。

    另一方面,扎加特绝不会等到吃甜点的时候才开始谈正事,因为她希望晚宴在轻松的氛围当中收场。她说,最重要的事情是维持轻松的气氛。

    Alina Dizik

    Navigating a business dinner can be complicated, but a successful evening out will solidify any business relationship. Nina Zagat, who co-founded Zagat Survey restaurant guides, has dined out several times a week at New York's best restaurants for more than 30 years, and she is a skilled guide to the unwritten rules of such meals.

    The main goal for Ms. Zagat is for the person with whom she is dining -- whether it's a colleague or a potential business partner -- to leave the meal knowing more about who she is as a person. 'The feeling that [all] people should come away with at the end of the business dinner is one that they've had a really nice conversation, met interesting people and had a good time,' says the 68-year-old, who owns the restaurant-guide business with her husband Tim. 'That's sort of the home run.'

    Before choosing a restaurant, Ms. Zagat finds out about her fellow diners' food and location preferences. 'Think about who your guests are going to be,' says Ms. Zagat, who often visits restaurants like Jean Georges near her Midtown office.

    Since restaurant dining rooms can be loud, she suggests seeking out places where diners don't need to strain to carry on a conversation. Look for restaurants with tables placed far apart or with several smaller dining rooms, instead of one large space.

    For larger groups, Ms. Zagat likes round tables, which feel 'inclusive,' and prefers not to sit at the head of a very long table. When being seated, the host or hostess should ask the guest of honor or business partner to sit on his or her right side, she says. And when dining a deux, she says, just ask your dining partner which seat he or she would like.

    When ordering, Ms. Zagat has one key rule: 'At a business dinner, you're not trying to draw a lot of attention to yourself and what you're eating,' she says. A pet peeve she cites is when others are not discreet about their food allergies or other dietary restrictions when eating or ordering.

    Since food shouldn't become the focus of the evening, she avoids dishes that are complicated to eat such as lobster and spaghetti, and she says it's all right, if you're not hungry, to request half-portions or to offer to share appetizers or dessert.

    In a similar vein, if she is the first person to finish her entree, she won't let a waiter take the plate until her dining companions are finished. If the other diners aren't ordering tea or dessert, she'll skip the last course. And if she leaves the room momentarily, Ms. Zagat discreetly leaves her napkin on the chair, rather than displaying it -- and its possible food spots -- on the table.

    Ordering the most expensive bottles of wine could also draw unwanted attention, coming off as showy, Ms. Zagat says. Asking the sommelier to recommend a low to midrange bottle is your best bet. 'Even at dinner last night, we said 'Can you recommend a wine that's not more than X' and gave some other qualifications,' she says.

    She draws no rigid boundaries when it comes to conversation. She even talks about politics, as long as the conversation doesn't get heated. One kind of communication, however, is discouraged. While she believes taking out a mobile device to read notes or refer to an email is acceptable, she never leaves her phone on the table or lets it ring.

    Ms. Zagat likes to chitchat until she's well into a meal, rather than turning to business-related topics right away. Start off 'with a nice conversation, find out what people are interested in,' she suggests. Be careful of coming across as pushy. 'If there are points you want to discuss, don't throw them on the table right at the beginning,' she says.

    At the same time, Ms. Zagat never waits until dessert to bring up serious business matters. She wants the night to end on a casual note: 'The most important thing is to have a relaxed time,' she says.