Saturday, February 25, 2012

40 Hong Kong foods we can't live without 香港不能欠缺的40 種美食

Street-style comfort foods, reptiles, and a lot of pork -- here are our picks of the most delicious and iconic food items of this foodie's paradise


Hong Kongers have a passion reserved just for Hong Kong food that eclipses their love for politics, shopping, gambling, and even -- gasp -- stocks. This city is home to some of the most food-obsessed people in the world and produces an alarming array of food items ranging from the stubbornly traditional to unself-conscious fusion foods, each more drool-worthy than the next. Here are a selection of 40 Hong Kong foods that make us rather not live than live without:
Hong Kong food

1. Hong Kong-style French toast

Unlike its more restrained Sunday brunch counterpart, Hong Kong-style French toast is for when you're stressed out and looking for a warm, deep-fried hug. It's two pieces of toast slathered with peanut butter or kaya jam, soaked in egg batter, fried in butter and served with still more butter and lots of syrup. Too much of this will send you to an early grave, but it's the perfect comfort-food combination of simple flavours and textures: sweet and savoury, soft and crispy.
Try it at Lan Fong Yuen, 6 Gage Street, Central, tel +852 2850 8683. 

2. Scrambled egg sandwich

On paper, an egg sandwich doesn't sound very noteworthy. After all, it's just fried egg in between two pieces of soft white bread. No big deal, right? Ah, but that would ignore the genius of a good Hong Kong line cook, who can somehow turn an egg into a fluffy, finely-layered gem of stomach-warming goodness. A classic egg sandwich should be plump, full of eggy flavour and light, not greasy.
Most people swear by the Australia Dairy Company, 47 Parkes Street, Jordan, tel +852 2730 1356, Australia Dairy Company Appreciation Group Facebook page, but our favourite is the Kwong Sing Café, 10 San Shing Avenue, Sheung Shui, tel +852 2670 4501.

3. Stinky tofu

No doubt you will have heard or read about the stench emanating from one of the strangest foods to come out of this part of the world. But nothing can really prepare you for the stink. Smelly tofu, like durian, is one of Asia's most iconic 'weird foods.' The stench is a result of fermentation of the tofu and it is such an overpowering smell you'll be hard-pressed to shake it off for months to come. But Hong Kongers really love that stink. Well, most Hong Kongers.
Follow your nose to Delicious Food, shop 10, G/F, 30-32 Nullah Road, Prince Edward, tel +852 2142 7468.
hong kong food

4. Hong Kong style-cheeseburgers

Dirt-cheap, kitschy and consistently delicious, Denmark Cake Shop’s Hong Kong-style cheeseburgers are reminiscent of the good old days pre-McD domination. The rundown eatery’s HK$9 burgers don’t fit the burger archetype, but it’s just as good, if not better: it’s palm-sized, minimalist (ketchup, home-made mayo, half a slice of processed cheese) and is encased in a slightly sweet Hong Kong-style butter roll. The patty is heavily seasoned and moist, attracting lines of schoolchildren since the shop opened in 1972. Denmark Cake Shop, G/F, 106 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, tel +852 2576 7353.

5. Sweet tofu soup

Sweet tofu soup is one of those deceptively simple dishes whose potential for satisfaction far outweighs the complexity of its ingredients. One of the best places to try it is Kin Hing, a lean-to stall in the countryside of Lamma Island that is run by an elderly couple who serves nothing but 'dau fu faa'. It's smooth and soft, doused in a lightly sweet syrup and sprinkled with yellow sugar; the sharp sweetness of the sugar complements the musty soya flavour of the tofu.
To get there, walk from Yung Shue Wan towards Hung Shing Yeh "Powerplant" Beach.

6. 'Pineapple' bun

The boh loh baau (literally meaning 'pineapple bun') is the holy grail of what may generously be termed the Hong Kong school of baking. It's firm on the outside, soft on the inside and topped by crunchy, sugary pastry. Popular enough to have been exported around the world -- step into a Chinese bakery in Toronto, Taipei or Tianjin and you're likely to find one -- it's ubiquitous in Hong Kong. It's the perfect complement to milk tea, especially if you have it with butter, a variation known as boh loh yaau.
Try it at two Mongkok cafés that are known for their buns: Kam Wah, 47 Bute Street, Mongkok, tel +852 2392 6830 and Hong Lin, 143 Tung Choi Street, Mongkok, tel +852 2391 8398.

7. Chicken feet

So it looks awful, but once you get over that, what is there not to love about chicken feet? Just like head cheese or coq au vin, Cantonese-style chicken feet is a perfect marriage of thrift and culinary genius. Euphemized as 'phoenix talons' in Chinese, the chicken feet are typically deep fried then stewed in a blackbean sauce. The cartilage softens to a melt-in-the-mouth consistency and great practice is needed to spit out the little bones in that dainty manner perfected by grandmas in dim sum restaurants across town. Lei Garden skips the deep-frying and stews their chicken feet in abalone sauce, resulting in a wholesome, more texturized treat.
Multiple locations, see website for details www.leigarden.hk.

8. Miniature wife cakes

As much as we love traditional Chinese pastries, their heavy combination of lard and sweet pastes made from various beans and roots don't exactly make for easy snacking. Luckily, Hang Heung has come up with a solution to that problem: miniature wife cakes. Wife cakes have a flaky skin made from pork lard and a firm, chewy filling made with almond paste and winter melon. The combination of the pastry and mellow winter melon sweetness makes them particularly tasty, while their bite size makes them particularly digestible.
Hang Heung, 64 Castle Peak Road, Yuen Long, tel +852 2479 2141

9. Ginger milk curd

Spicy, creamy, soupy -- this is wintertime dessert at its best (though it's good in the summer too). Made by gently simmering sweetened milk and then mixing it with fresh ginger juice, which causes the milk to curdle, 'geung tsap dun nai' has a soft pudding-like texture not unlike tofu. The local branches of Macau's Yee Shun Milk Company make a mean version of this timeless Cantonese treat.
Yee Shun, 506 Lockhart Road, Causeway Bay, tel +852 2591 1837, and various other locations. 

hong kong food

10. Five-layer roast pork

A great piece of 'siu yuk' should have a top layer of crackling skin, then alternating slivers of fat with moist meat, and a final salty-spiced layer at the bottom. Euphemised as 'five-layer meat,' the morsels are served with sharp yellow mustard to cap off an overwhelming experience of textures and flavors all rendered from a humble slice of pork belly.
Lei Garden's siu yuk hits the spot every time. Multiple location, see website for details www.leigarden.hk.

11. Indonesian satay

When they're brought to your table on a miniature charcoal grill, the Shatin Inn's fatty, tender satay skewers sizzle in a very satisfying way. But it's the experience of eating them outdoors in a time-warp restaurant that makes them especially worthwhile. The Inn is a roadside restaurant that dates back to the days when going to Shatin meant a big journey over the mountains and out to the country. Though it's now surrounded by roads, it retains a homey, rural atmosphere.
The Shatin Inn, 7.5 Miles, Tai Po Road, Tai Wai, tel +852 2691 1425.

12. Meat mountain

Steamed meat cake -- a mishmash of ground pork, mushrooms, water chestnuts and preserved vegetables, seasoned with simple soy sauce and sesame oil -- is a staple of Cantonese home cooking. At Man Seng, the staple is transformed into something more remarkable: a veritable meat mountain. With feats of culinary magic known only to the cooks (don't bother asking for details -- trade secret), the half-foot-high pile of meat is somehow tender, succulent and evenly cooked.
Man Seng, 16 Wun Sha Street, Tai Hang, tel +852 2576 7272. 
hong kong food

13. Cantonese preserved sausage

Some Chinese sausages can be heavy on the salt and spices, but Cantonese laap cheung is a perfectly well-proportioned mix of slightly-sweet pork fat and meat. Rose water and rice wine gives it a pungent edge and soy sauce serves as a salty counterpart to the sweetness. Cook it with rice, vegetables, eggs or just about anything.
Freshly-dried lap cheung are available in the winter at Wo Hing Preserved Meat, 368 Queens Road Central, Sheung Wan, tel +852 2546 8958. Frozen-foods specialist DCH (various locations) carries tasty Canadian lap cheung all year round. Or just drop into any of the stores that have sausages on display on Sheung Wan's 'dried seafood street.'

14. Trendy hot pot 

Hot pot is truly a social event for people in Hong Kong, especially for families looking for an excuse to get together on a chilly winter's night. And as a true testament to the innovation and picky palates of Hong Kongers, there's no shortage of new things to try. Megan's Kitchen is one of the latest trend-setting hot pot restaurants famous for their rainbow meatballs in different flavours and colors, where the surprise is inside, like Kinder eggs. Our favorite is Megan's pork balls with a mango centre. Soup base is another divisive issue at the dinner table: from a simple vegetable base to congee and soymilk base to Megan's tom yum koong “cappuccino” soup base.
Megan’s Kitchen, 5/F, Lok Kei Centre, 165-171 Wan Chai Road, Wan Chai, tel +852 2866 8305, www.meganskitchen.com.

15. Beef brisket

The brisket is a much maligned part of the cow in Western cooking, but you'll find huge chunks of it being slowly stewed in giant pots of sauce in noodle shop windows all over Hong Kong until they're tender and soaked with juicy goodness. Few of these places however, can live up to the reputation of Kau Kee, which sells its signature beef brisket cooked in either a clear broth or curry broth served with noodles. Or try On Lee in Shau Kei Wan on your day off -- the good stuff typically sells out by late afternoon.
Kau Kee, G/F, 21 Gough Street, Sheung Wan, tel +852 2850 5967.
On Lee, Shop 4, G/F, Tung Wong House, 14-22 Shau Kei Wan Main Street East, Shau Kei Wan, tel +852 2560 6897.

hong kong food

16. Egg tart

Like many classic Hong Kong dishes, the origins of the egg tart are a bit murky, but it seems likely that they are yet another example of British tea time snacks -- custard tarts, in this case -- that were adapted to local Chinese tastes. Since they became popular in the 1940s, two varieties of egg tarts have emerged: one with a flaky puff pasty shell and another with a sweet shortbread crust. Both are filled with a rich custard that is much eggier and less creamy than English custard tarts or Portuguese pastéis de nata.
Try the shortbread version at Tai Cheong Bakery, 35 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, tel +852 2544 3475, www.taicheongbakery.com and the flaky kind at Honolulu Coffee Shop, 176 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai, tel +852 2575 1823, or bump into Chow Yun Fat at his favorite egg tart joint Hoover Cake Shop, 136 Nga Tsin Wai Road, Kowloon City, tel +852 2382 0383.

17. Yung Kee's roast goose

Yung Kee has been around since the 1940s when it was a mere food stall near the ferry pier and has since grown to be the authority on Hong Kong roast goose. Today, nine out of 10 people will recommend friends visiting Hong Kong to have a meal at Yung Kee for their 'siu ngoh.' The restaurant will even specially pack their goose as carry-on luggage for departing travelers. It isn't the cheapest by a long way and some may say that the most authentic roast duck is still to be found deep in the New Territories, but its an institution not to be missed. If you're so inclined, try the equally famous thousand-year egg with ginger, which is so reputable, other restaurants buy from Yung Kee to serve to their own customers.
Yung Kee Restaurant, 32 Wellington Street, Central, tel +852 2522 1624 www.yungkee.com.hk 

18. Thai food in Kowloon City

Kowloon City was once home to no man's land Kowloon Walled City but these days it is better known as a food mecca. Some of the best food in Hong Kong is found here, particularly Thai food. A small Thai community makes up Kowloon City's 'Little Thailand,' a proliferation of Thai restaurants, supermarkets and hole-in-the-wall noodle and satay joints. A lot of the Thai food you find in Hong Kong is overpriced and friendly to expat-palates -- go for the real thing in Kowloon City.
We like Best of Thai Food Restaurant, 37 Fuk Lo Tsun Road, Kowloon City, tel +852 2127 7348. 
hong kong food

19. Roast pigeon

Pigeons are usually dismissed as rats with wings, but believe us, rats don't taste this good. Cantonese-style pigeon is typically braised in soy sauce, rice wine and star anise before being roasted to crispy perfection. It's an earthy, deeply satisfying dish -- the Hong Kong answer to Peking duck.
Nostalgic dive Tai Ping Koon, 19 Mau Lam Street, Yau Ma Tei, tel +852 2384 1703, various other locations, is known for its pigeon, and so are the restaurants in Tai Wai, including the reliable Shui Wah, 51 Tsuen Nam Road, Tai Wai, tel +852 2606 7117. 

20. Snake soup

Snake soup is said to cure any number of ailments. Forget about that. The real reason to indulge in this Cantonese delicacy is because it's the perfect dish for cool weather. There's something about the brothy mix of snake meat, mushrooms, ginger and pork that does an even better job of warming you up than chicken noodle soup. The soup is usually served with fried bits of dough, slivers of kaffir lime leaf and chrysanthemum petals for aroma. And yes, snake really does taste like chicken.
Give it a go at Se Wong Yan, 80A, Woosung Street, Jordan, no phone.

21. Lotus seed paste

Here's a lesson in making a silk purse out of a sow's ear: Take some dried lotus seeds -- those hard, pale, dime-sized bullets of little flavor -- soak, stew, grind to a paste, pass through cheesecloth, add sugar. Then comes the tricky stage. Dry-cook the sweetened paste in a huge wok, teasing out the nutty, caramelly flavors without burning it. When done right, the fruit of the exhausting labor is rich, velvety lotus seed paste that can be stuffed in fluffy white buns. We love the paste stuffed in Lin Heung's buns with a nub of salty egg yolk.
Lin Heung Tea House, 160-164 Wellington Street, Central, tel +852 2544 4556, www.linheung.com.

22. Typhoon-shelter crab

Hong Kong's typhoon shelters used to harbor a community of 'boat people' who made their homes on sampans. Out of the community rose a distinct culinary culture that centered on freshly caught seafood served with plenty of spices and 'wok hei' -- good wok-wielding skills. Little remains of Hong Kong's boat people today but their excellent food culture is ever popular, in particular, the spicy crabs served at Under the Bridge heaped with fried garlic and chilli peppers.
Under the Bridge Spicy Crab, Shop 6-9, G/F, 429 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, tel +852 2573 7698, www.underspicycrab.com.
hong kong food

23. Egg noodles

A quality egg noodle depends on its egg flavor and al dente texture. Egg noodles don't get much better than at Ho To Tai Noodle Shop, which has been in business for over six decades. Our favorite is the shrimp roe-covered noodles served with a bowl of fish soup. Salty shrimp roe is generously sprinkled all over strips of noodles that have just the right amount of elasticity and egginess. Ho To Tai's wontons are also reputable and made to the size of a dollar-coin, as is the tradition.
Ho To Tai Noodle Shop, No.67, Fau Tsoi St, Yuen Long; tel +852 2476 2495, htt.com.hk.

24. Milk tea

It's colonialism in a cup. You could argue that afternoon tea is the single most pervasive legacy of British rule, enjoyed as it is by Hong Kongers from all walks of life, and milk tea is the most potent symbol of English traditions fused with Chinese sensibilities. Top-notch milk tea is made with a special blend of black Ceylon tea that is strained through silk stockings and mixed with evaporated milk. A good cup is bitter, full-bodied and velvety smooth.
Connoisseurs swear by the tea at Kam Fung, 41 Spring Garden Lane, Wan Chai, tel +852 2572 0526, Lan Fong Yuen's takeaway stall, 2 Gage Street, Central, tel +852 2544 3895 and 'Milk Tea King' Tai Fat Restaurant, shop 5, G/F, Treasure Court, Hong Shui Kiu, Yuen Long, tel +852 2443 5533.

25. Joy Hing's cha siu

In this town, Joy Hing is synonymous with 'cha siu' -- Cantonese barbecued pork. Be sure to order 'half fatty, half skinny' cha siu for the best cut: moist, not greasy, honeyed yet smoky.
Joy Hing BBQ Shop, 265-267 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai, tel +852 2519 6639, Facebook group.
hong kong food

26. Cha siu baau

Barbecued pork stuffed into a bun deserves its very own shout-out here. Because, when we break open a soft white steamed bun and see the glistening mauve filling of diced cha siu with extra barbecue sauce spilling out and sniff the heady perfume of wine, soy, and hints of caramel, we're moved. North Garden calls theirs 'cha siu mantou,' giving the traditional bun a northern Chinese twist.
North Garden Restaurant, 1-2/F, Tung Ning Building, 249-253 Des Voeux Road, Sheung Wan, tel +852 2739 2338.

27. Claypot rice

For those willing to turn a blind eye on the two-star service and focus on the five-star signature dish, Kwan Kee Claypot Rice is a must-visit. Hardly ever an empty seat, Kwan Kee does rice crustily well using charcoal stoves that are near-extinct in Hong Kong. Whatever toppings you choose, be sure to add some Chinese preserved sausage. All the juices and fat from the meat will drizzle into the rice, adding to its pleasant aroma and taste.
Reservations highly recommended. Kwan Kee Claypot Rice, Shop 1, Wo Yick Mansion, 263 Queen's Road West, Western District, tel +852 2803 7209.

28. North Point mini egg cakes

Crackly on the outside and spongy on the inside, this street-side joint’s mini toasted egg cakes -- called 'gai daan tsai' -- is a clear winner in a city where the snack is just as ubiquitous as potato chips in a convenience store. At North Point Mini Egg Cakes, the eggy batter is toasted to golden-brown perfection and everyone from office workers to housewives crowd around each night for a delicious morsel.
North Point Mini Egg Cakes, 492 King's Road, North Point, +852 2590 9726. 
hong kong food

29. Tang Lung Street's Thai shrimp sashimi

Dingy Tang Lung Street may not be known as the most savory place to eat raw crustacean dishes in Hong Kong, but Thai Shing Restaurant’s shrimp sashimi has us returning time and time again with no upset tummies so far. Dished up in a bed of ice and garnished with a slice of raw garlic, the shrimps at Thai Shing are fresh with briny flavors. The chewy delicacy is best eaten dunked in the accompanying chili sauce.
Thai Shing, G/F, Tang Fai Building, 36 Tung Lung Street, Causeway Bay, tel+ 852 2834 2500.

30. Mulberry Mistletoe tea

Traditional Chinese medicine rarely tastes this good. Yuen Kee Dessert‘s Mulberry Mistletoe tea is a delicately sweet Chinese dessert with medicinal qualities, such as reinforcing the kidney and warding off rheumatism. Mulberry Mistletoe tea’s uncluttered flavor has a quiet, nostalgic charm in a city of frantically evolving food trends. Most old-timers at Yuen Kee Dessert like to add boiled lotus seeds to their order and pair the sweet tea with a steamed sponge cake.
Yuen Kee Dessert , G/F, 32 Centre Street, Western District +852 2548 8687.

31. Block 13 Cow Offal

Fatty, richly marinated beef innards are as deeply ingrained in Hong Kong’s street food culture as curry fishballs. And when it comes to skewered cow organ goodness, Block 13's is hard to beat. The eatery’s braised cow offal skewers is a potpourri of contrasting textures, including the chewy honeycomb tripe, springy cow lungs, and tough cow’s intestines. For an extra flavor kick, there’s runny mustard and sweet sauce available at the counter.
Block 13 Cow Offal, G/F, 1 Shu Kuk Street, North Point, tel +852 3575 9299. 
hong kong food

32. Congee

It’s the food we crave when we’re sick, cold or missing home. And the deciding factor is texture over flavor. Known for its assortment of fresh fish congee, Sang Kee Congee Shop has customers lining up everyday for its fleecy rice porridge boiled from 2am every morning. Portions are large enough to keep an average, middle-aged man satisfied.
Sang Kee Congee Shop, G/F, 7-9 Burd Street, Sheung Wan, tel +852 2541 1099.

33. Bowl pudding

For those who miss the 1980s when palm-sized puddings steamed in porcelain bowls (buut tsai goh) were widely sold by street hawkers, Kwan Kee Store gives us that taste of childhood we’re craving for. Since 1965, the Fu family from Shunde has been grinding glutinous rice flour by hand to make their signature bowl puddings with white or brown sugar and sometimes red beans. Even chief executive Donald Tsang had to make a special visit for a taste.
Kwan Kee Store, Shop 10, 115-117 Fuk Wah Street, Sham Shui Po, tel +852 2360 0328.

34. Tonkichi's tonkatsu

Hong Kongers are thankful for those crazy Japanese and their crazy dedication to perfecting deep-fried comfort food. Tonkichi is the preferred Japanese restaurant in town for specialising in deep-fried things, from oysters to giant shrimps -- but best of all, pork chops. Aside from making sure the batter is the perfect crunchiness, the meat inside must be juicy and not greasy. Turn up at Tonkichi with a ravenous appetite and be prepared not to get it back for a couple of days after.
There is usually an hour-long wait for a table. Tonkichi Tonkatsu Seafood, 412, Podium 4, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, tel +852 2577 6617.
hong kong food

35. B Boy's grass jelly

Kei Kee Dessert sells Hong Kong’s most sought after grass jelly dessert: 'B tsai leung fun,' or B Boy's grass jelly. The huge serving of grass jelly topped with plenty of mixed fruit and condensed milk could be a meal on its own. Go with at least three other people or be prepared to pack home your leftovers.
Kei Kee Dessert, Shop 7, Chi Fu Centre, Yuen Long; tel +852 2479 4743, www.yl.hk/b.

36. Mango pudding in mango sauce with extra mango

There's really only one ingredient that matters at Hui Lau Shan: mango. The sweet, ripe fruit, imported from Thailand, finds its way into just about every dish at this dessert chain, which has conquered Hong Kong and spread as far afield as San Francisco. The shop's most representative dish combines a milky mango pudding with thick mango purée, mango ice and generous chunks of mango. Extra sugar is left aside in favour of the fruit's naturally robust sweetness.
Hui Lau Shan, multiple locations, see website for details www.hkhls.com.

37. Sweet and sour pork

No, it isn't just for gwailos. Sweet and sour pork, called 'gu lo yuk,' is also a comfort food craved by Hong Kongers. The Cantonese original is made with vinegar, preserved plums and hawthorn candy for a nearly scarlet color and that sweet-sour tang. Nowadays, it's mostly made with ketchup and coloring.
Sweet and sour pork can be ordered at any respectable Canto restaurant, but we like the consistent quality at Ho Choi Seafood Restaurant, multiple locations, see website for details, www.hochoi.com.

38. Louis' steak

In Hong Kong there is no shortage of Hong Kong-style steakhouses. Most of these colonial-influenced institutions serve soggy meat on hot griddle plates, their texture horribly mangled by baking powder. Louis' Steakhouse has all the nostalgic charms of old-school Hong Kong Western restaurants and none of the bad food. In line with bygone local tastes, their steaks are decidedly more tender than what you find in contemporary Western steakhouses, but is nonetheless juicy and meaty. And you have the bonus of ordering stewed fish maw, another house specialty, alongside your steak. Now that's what we call Hong Kong fusion.
Louis' Steak House, 1/F, Malaysia Building, 50 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai, tel +852 2529 8933.
hong kong food

39. Fishballs

According to Wikipedia, which sourced from Apple Daily's 2002 report, Hong Kongers eat about 37.5 million fishballs per day. A simple Google Maps search reveals that for every two 7-Elevens you pass by, you’ll find a shop that specializes in this beloved snack. And if you’re really desperate, even 7-Eleven will sell you some. Everyone has their own favorite fishball joint that they swear by, and our's is Tung Tat for their firmness and intense curry flavor.
Tung Tat Restaurant, G/F, 48 Pitt Street, Yau Ma Tei, tel +852 2332 8376.

40. Swiss chicken wings

The story goes that a foreigner, bowled over by the wings' sweet and salty taste, tried to ask the staff for the name of the 'sweet' dish. The waiter thought he was alluding to the wings' Swiss origins and the name stuck. Swiss sauce, a rich, sweet soy sauce, is now a kitchen standby in many Cantonese homes. Tai Ping Koons' chicken wings in Swiss sauce is still distinctly flavorful, with tender, fall-off-the-bone meat.
Tai Ping Koon Restaurant, 6 Pak Sha Road, Causeway Bay, tel +852 2576-9161, taipingkoon.com.

港人對港式美食熱衷的程度令政治、購物、博彩,甚至是股市都顯得黯然失色。 對全世界的食客來說,香港就像他們的天堂,匯集各式各樣的料理,從傳統菜式到異國風味的融合菜饌,都令人垂涎三尺。 本站推介 40 種美食,少了他們香港將黯然失色:

香港美食
1. 港式風味西多士

與假日平凡的早午餐不同,當你感到疲憊想有人抱抱你時,港式西多士能令你沉醉在油煎小食的懷抱中。 西多士以兩片麵包夾著花生醬或咖央(kaya),浸在蛋汁中,落牛油煎,最後豪氣地淋上牛油及糖漿。 這東西吃太多不健康,但卻能將美味及口感以最簡單的方式呈現,甜而不膩、香脆酥軟,宛如人間極品。
請到蘭芳園親嘗:中環結志路 6 號,電話:+852 2850 8683。

2. 炒蛋治

從字面看來,炒蛋治一點也不吸引。 畢竟,它充其量不過就是兩片白麵包裡夾著炒蛋。 沒甚麼了不起對吧? 但是這樣就小看了聰明的香港廚師,他們把平凡無奇的蛋變成香滑、層次交疊的暖胃佳餚。 招牌炒蛋多士鬆軟美味,洋溢著香濃的蛋味,清宜而不油膩。
眾人極力推介的澳洲牛奶公司: 佐敦白加士街 47 號地下,電話:+852 2730 1356, 澳洲牛奶公司 Facebook 群組頁面而廣成冰室才是本站的最愛:上水新成路10號,電話:+852 2670 4501.

3. 臭豆腐

毫無疑問地,你們一定曾經聽過或讀過這個名列世界最奇怪小食之一的臭名。 它的臭味令你無法抵擋。 臭豆腐,跟榴槤一樣都是亞洲最著名的「怪食」。 豆腐發酵之後即出現臭味,其味道的威力之強大,在短時間之內無法散去。 但香港人就愛這個臭味。 我是指大部分的香港人啦。
跟著你的嗅覺前往 Delicious Food:太子水渠道 30-32 號 A 美星樓地下 10 號舖,電話:+852 2142 7468。

香港美食
4. 港式芝士漢堡包

價廉物美、多年不變的美味,充滿港式風味的丹麥餅店不禁令人懷念麥當勞進駐本地之前的美好時光。 平均港幣 9 元的漢堡包不如典型的漢堡,但滋味不言而喻。其外型小巧能一手掌握,製作簡單,僅加入茄醬、蛋黃醬和一片芝士,以微甜的港式風味牛油卷夾成。 煎肉的部分相當入味,鬆化嫩口,自 1972 年開業起即吸引學生在店外大排長龍。 丹麥餅店: 銅鑼灣禮頓道 106 號禮信大廈地下,電話:+852 2576 7353

5. 豆腐花

豆腐花是一道看似簡單,嚐起來口感複雜,令人滿足。 提到豆腐花不能不提建興,它位於郊區的南丫島,由兩位年長的夫婦經營,該店除了「豆腐花」之外沒有別的東西。 其豆腐花滑嫩順口,淋上些許的糖水並加入黃糖;糖的濃烈甜味正好與傳統的豆腐味道互補。
榕樹灣走至洪聖爺灣「發電廠」海灘即可到達。

6. 「菠蘿」包

boh loh baau(意指「菠蘿包」)可說是香港麵包師傅的最高考驗。 它的外皮紮實,包身鬆軟,頂層有著香濃甜美的脆皮。 其熱門程度橫跨全球,走遍多倫多的華人餅點、臺北或天津幾乎都能購得;在香港更是隨處可見。 如夾入一片牛油即成為所稱的菠蘿油,搭奶茶尤佳。
到以下兩家以菠蘿包聞名的旺角茶餐廳: 金華冰廳:旺角太子弼街 47 號,電話:+852 2392 6830;康年餐廳:旺角通菜街 143 號,電話:+852 2391 8398。

flickr/lotylot
7. 鳳爪

它 看起來有點可怕,不過只要你試過一次,必定會愛上鳳爪。 就像豬頭肉凍和紅酒燴雞,粵式鳳爪是天才廚師與平民食才的完美結晶。 中文素有「鳳爪」的美稱,通常先以油煎再放入豆豉醬進行燉煮。 其軟骨入口即化,要優雅地吐出幼小的骨頭,須透過阿婆在點心菜館的訓練才得以完成。 利苑酒家以鮑魚醬汁代替油煎燉煮的方式處理,讓鳳爪成為養生精緻的食品。
分店眾多,詳細資訊請見網站www.leigarden.hk

8. 迷你老婆餅

我們熱愛中式糕點,其揉合大量豬油及甜麵糰,並用綠豆和根莖類食材造成內餡,不過他們份量太豐富肥膩,並不適合作零食。 很幸運地,恆香製作出迷你老婆餅,解決了這個問題。 老婆餅層層交疊的外皮以豬油和紮實、彈性十足的杏仁膏,以及冬瓜蓉製成。 餅皮與甘美的冬瓜蓉結合,成為獨樹一幟的美味,其一口咬下的大小亦可輕鬆消化。
恆香老餅家:元朗青山公路 64 號,電話:+852 2479 2141

9. 薑汁燉奶

甜辣順口、奶味濃稠——是冬日最佳甜品(儘管夏天亦很適合)。 薑汁燉奶用滑嫩的甜奶,撞落新鮮的薑汁使鮮奶凝結,就整出宛如布丁口感而非豆腐花的「geung tsap dun nai」(薑汁撞奶)。 港澳義順牛奶公司本地分店 打造歷久彌新的出色港式甜品。
義順: 銅鑼灣駱克道 506 號,電話:+852 2591 1837,亦有其他分店。

香港美食
10. 冰燒三層肉

一塊好的「燒肉」的面部應該要有酥脆的外皮,中間滑嫩的豬肉則有著晶亮的油脂,底部則以鹹辣的味道作為完為。 冠有「三層肉」的稱號,將輕盈的肉塊蘸上芥末,襯出香薄豬腩肉令人驚喜的肉質和風味。
利苑酒家的燒肉是其熱門菜式。 多處分店,詳細資訊請見網站www.leigarden.hk

11. 印度沙嗲

當他們將小型炭爐端到你面前時,沙田茵油脂豐富、嫩口的沙嗲串燒立刻擄獲你的心。 在該店戶外用餐的體驗猶如時間倒流,值得前往。 沙田茵位在馬路邊,早在過去需要翻山越嶺才能到達沙田時即成立。 雖然現在它已被馬路包圍,但仍保有原來溫馨的田園風情。
沙田茵:大圍沙田大埔道 7 米半,電話:+852 2691 1425

12. 高聳肉餅山

鹹蛋蒸肉餠——碎肉大雜燴、香菇、馬蹄和醃漬蔬菜,佐以醬油和芝麻油,即成為一道招牌廣式家常料理。 然而民聲冰室將這道出名的菜式改造成不折不扣的:肉餅山。 廚師高超的廚藝(請勿探究詳細作法,這是商業機密!)將有如半呎高的肉堆烹煮得柔軟多汁且風味細緻。
民聲冰室:大坑浣紗街 16 號,電話:+852 2576 7272

香港美食
13. 廣式臘腸

有些中式香腸又鹹又辣,但廣式臘腸將微甜的油脂與豬肉恰如其分的結合。 玫瑰露與米水賦予臘腸香濃的味道,而醬油的鹹味與其甘甜作出調合。 以米飯、蔬菜、蛋或任何食材烹煮均可。
冬日新鮮的風乾臘腸可至和興臘味家購買:上環皇后大道中 368 號,電話:+852 2546 8958. 冷凍食品專家DCH (各地區) 全年提供美味加拿大臘腸。 亦可到上環「海味街」任何一間售賣臘腸的店鋪。

14. 時髦火鍋 

打邊爐在香港已成為社交活動,特別是家人會拿此作藉口,在寒冷的冬夜小聚一番。 身為一個新潮且挑嘴的港民,務必不能放過全城最新食肆。 美味廚是近期炙手可熱的火鍋餐廳,以不同口味及顏色的七色墨魚丸享譽盛名,其內餡就像健達出奇蛋 一樣令人驚喜。 本站心頭好是美味廚的芒果釀豬肉丸。 鍋底亦能成為餐桌上的爭議:從清淡的蔬菜湯底、粥底、豆奶湯底,到美味廚獨創的冬蔭功「cappuccino」湯底,各種鍋底任君選擇。
美味廚:灣仔灣仔道 165 至 171 號樂基中心 5 樓,電話:+852 2866 8305, www.meganskitchen.com

15. 牛腩

腩肉在西方料理中不太受歡迎,然而你在全港的粉麵店都能見到大塊的牛腩在巨型鍋內燉煮,直到其軟稔、入味為止。 這些店舖當中,少有能達到九記牛腩如此的地位,其店內主要販賣著名的牛腩,搭配清燉湯底或咖哩口味的伊麵。 亦可在放假時到安利魚蛋粉,不過好東西在傍晚前恐怕就會售罄。
九記牛腩:中環歌賦街21號,電話:+852 2850 5967
安利魚蛋粉:筲箕灣東大街 14-22 號東旺大廈地下 4 號舖,電話:+852 2560 6897

香港美食
16. 蛋撻

如許多經典香港美食一般,蛋撻剛開始是英式下午茶吉士撻(custard tarts)的翻版,而後改製成本地中式口味。 自 40 年代起蛋撻開始流行,坊間出現兩種蛋撻:一種是酥脆的外皮,另一種則是香甜的牛油餅皮。 兩者皆有豐富的吉士醬,相較英國吉士撻與葡撻的蛋香來得濃厚,比較少奶油。
泰昌餅家的牛油餅皮蛋撻:中環擺花街 35 號,電話: +852 2544 3475, www.taicheongbakery.com 酥脆外皮可至檀島咖啡餅店:灣仔軒尼詩道176 號,電話:+852 2575 1823,以及周潤發最鐘意的豪華餅店,或許還能在那裡遇到他:九龍城衙前圍道 136 號,電話:+852 2382 0383.

17. 鏞記燒鵝

鏞記從 40 年代即開業,當時它只是間碼頭邊的食鋪,至今已發展成香港燒鵝界的第一食府。 今日,十個人有九個人會推介朋友到香港旅遊時,必到鏞記,體驗其招牌菜式「燒鵝」。 該餐廳甚至可旅客將他們的燒鵝打包外賣。 鏞記並非最便宜的餐廳,有人指出最原味的燒鴨在新界深處,但鏞記仍然不可錯過。 如果你已迫不及待想嘗試,那麼亦可試試其另一道名菜嫩薑皮蛋,甚至有餐廳特地外賣此佳餚給他們的顧客品嚐。
鏞記酒家:中環威靈頓街32-40號,電話: +852 2522 1624 www.yungkee.com.hk 

18. 九龍城的泰式料理

九龍城曾是無人荒野的 九龍城寨, 如今蛻變成人們口中的美食發源地。 此處隱藏許多香港首屈一指的美食,其中以泰式料理最聞名。 九龍城的小型泰式社區令它成為「小泰國」,擁有為數眾多的泰國餐廳、超級市場,還有狹小的麵店與沙嗲鋪。 在香港很多泰國料理所費不菲,且不夠正宗,因此還是到九龍城開懷地品嚐正宗泰國料理吧。
泰之選泰國菜館:九龍城福佬村道37號,電話:+852 2127 7348。

香港美食
19. 烤乳鴿

鴿肉通常跟鼠肉一樣容易被人忽略,但是請相信我們,鼠肉沒有這麼好味。 一般來說,廣式乳鴿以醬油燉煮,佐上米酒和八角後放進焗爐即呈現完美的脆皮。 這道平民而令人大快朵頤的菜式是香港版的北京烤鴨。
老字號的太平館餐廳佐敦茂林街 19-21 號,電話:+852 2384 1703,亦有其他分店,乳鴿是其招牌菜式; 另外,大圍的萃華酒家亦是評價良好的乳鴿餐廳:大圍村南道 51 號,電話: +852 2606 7117.

20. 蛇羹

民間常說蛇湯能治癒各種疾病。 算了吧。 真正讓人沉迷這個廣式佳餚的原因是,蛇羹與寒冷的冬天極相配。 蛇羹內混合蛇肉、冬菇、薑和豬肉,比雞湯更暖胃。 蛇羹常配以酥炸的脆餅食用,佐上檸檬葉與菊花葉來提味。 沒錯,蛇肉嚐起來好像雞肉。
親訪蛇王恩一探究竟:佐敦吳松街 80 號 A,無電話。

21. 蓮蓉包

巧 婦難為無米炊: 準備一些蓮蓉,其硬且色白,大小如硬幣,後將之過水煮爛,磨碎,再以乾紗布過水,加糖即成。」 接著就是高難度的步驟。 將香甜的蓮蓉乾炒,以文火慢煮,將堅果、焦糖味帶出。 順利完成這個繁複的程序後,就成為鬆軟白包內夾著口感富郁、細緻的蓮蓉。 我們熱愛蓮香樓裹著蛋黃的蓮蓉包。
蓮香樓 中環威靈頓街160-164號,電話: +852 2544 4556, www.linheung.com

22. 避風塘炒蟹

香港的避風塘炒蟹受到以船為家的「漁民」青睞。 後來則演變出特殊食肆文化,將新鮮的海鮮與大量的辣椒炮製,以鬼斧神工的技巧炒出鑊氣。 避風塘炒蟹傳承香港漁民的原汁好味,其中更推介橋底炒蟹的菜式,灑上熱辣的炒蒜蓉與辣椒。
橋底炒蟹灣仔駱克道 429 號華發大廈 6-9 號鋪,電話:tel +852 2573 7698, www.underspicycrab.com

香港美食
23. 蛋麵

一碗蛋麵的好壞取決於蛋的風味與質感。 開業已超過六十餘年的好到底所販賣的蛋麵更是首屈一指。 我們最喜歡的菜式是蝦子撈麵,搭一碗魚湯。 雲吞蝦子鹹味適中,均勻的散布在撈麵中,突顯其彈性與濃郁的蛋味。 好到底的雲吞亦顯赫有名,與傳統的雲吞一樣如硬幣般的大小。
好到底麵家:元朗阜財街 67 號;電話: +852 2476 2495,htt.com.hk

24. 奶茶

奶茶是飲品的殖民主義。 你可以說下午茶是英國最普遍的習慣,各行各業的香港人亦樂在其中;而奶茶則是英國傳統融合華人感性的最佳代表。 一流奶茶是用獨特的錫蘭紅茶,透過尼龍網的棉線網過濾,再拌入煉乳所製成。 喝起來有點苦味、香醇濃郁,並且如絲質般順口。
食客強力推介金鳳茶餐廳,位於灣仔春園街 41 號,電話:+852 2572 0526,蘭芳園檔口:中環結志街 2 號,電話:+852 2544 3895,還有獲選為「奶茶王」的大發茶餐廳:元朗洪水橋翠珊園地下 5 號舖, 

25. 再興叉燒

在這個城市,再興即是「叉燒」的代名詞——廣式燒豬肉。 請記得點「半肥瘦」的叉燒:汁多而不油,燒味中帶甘甜。
再興燒臘飯店:灣仔軒尼詩道 265-267 號,電話:+852 2519 6639,Facebook 群組

香港美食
26. 叉燒包

將叉燒夾在包子裏的美食讓人直呼過癮。 因為,當我們剥開軟嫩的白蒸包,立刻睇見油亮亮的紅色叉燒內餡,香味四溢的燒汁溢出,心醉的酒香和豉油香,還有少許的蜜糖味撲鼻而來,令人忍不住咬完一口又一口。 北園將其稱作「叉燒饅頭」,賦予傳統包品北方味兒。
北園酒家:上環德輔道中 249-253 號東寧大廈 1-2 樓,電話:+852 2739 2338

27. 煲仔飯

對於不在乎二星級的劣等服務,想專攻五星級美食的朋友們,坤記煲仔小菜絕對是首選。 該店經常座無虛席,坤記用炭煮褒仔飯,在香港已絕無僅有。 無論你點什麼,請記得加上中式臘腸。 臘肉多汁、油脂豐富,飽滿地滲入米飯中,增添香氣,口感出色。
建議事先訂座。 坤記褒仔小菜:西環皇后大道西 263 號和益大廈,電話:+852 2803 7209。

28. 北角雞蛋仔

外皮酥脆,內餡綿密,這個街邊的迷你雞蛋仔,廣東話叫「雞蛋仔」,是不折不扣的明星小食,像便利商店的薯片一樣普通。 北角雞蛋仔將雞蛋漿倒在模子中烤至金黃色,從白領男女到師奶都願意排隊久等,只為一嚐美味。
北角雞蛋仔:北角英皇道 492 號,北角英皇道 492 號

香港美食
29. 登龍街泰式生蝦

幽暗的燈龍街大概不是香港享用最佳有殼海鮮的地點,然而泰成菜館的生蝦卻讓我們百吃不膩。 生蝦以冰塊鋪盤,搭配幾片生蒜,泰成的生蝦新鮮可口、鮮味十足。 這道可口佳餚最適合佐以泰式辣醬食用。
泰成菜館:銅鑼灣登龍街 36 號登輝大廈,電話:+ 852 2834 2500

30. 桑寄生茶

傳統中國草藥鮮少有這般美味。 源記甜品的桑寄生茶是一道甜品,具有中藥療效,強腎,並預防風濕。 在這個各種料理瘋狂演進的城市,桑寄生茶清新的口感有股懷舊的迷人風味。 許多老主顧至源記甜品用餐時,總會在桑茶中加入蓮子,搭清蛋糕佐食。
源記甜品:西環正街 32 號 +852 2548 8687

31. 十三座牛雜

肥美的滷牛雜與咖哩魚蛋一樣,已紮根為香港街頭小食文化的代表。 提到牛什佳饌,十三座牛雜當仁不讓。 鋪內的牛雜將各種對比口感匯總,包括彈牙的牛肚、滑溜的牛肺、香腍的牛腸。 欲添更佳食味,店鋪檯前亦提供芥辣和甜醬。
十三座牛雜:北角書局街 1 號,電話:+852 3575 9299

香港美食
32. 粥品

在生病、感冒或患上思鄉病時,都渴望食粥。 關鍵就在其口感。 生記粥品專家以新鮮的魚腩粥為人所樂道,每天都能看到排隊的人潮,欲品嚐從凌晨兩點開始熬煮的美味粥品。 份量十足,能夠滿足一般中年男性的食量。
生記粥品專家,上環畢街 7-9 號,電話:+852 2541 1099

33. 砵仔糕

小 販們用手掌大小的瓷碗炊著熱騰騰的砵仔糕,這幅景象是一些人對八零年代印象,而坤記糕餅為我們重現孩童時代難以忘懷的美味。 來自順德的傅家自 1965 年起,就開始手工製作各類糕點。以米研磨而成的黏稠米麵粉為原料,佐上白糖或黑糖製作出招牌口味砵仔糕,有時亦會加入紅豆增加口感。 就連行政長官曾蔭權都曾特地到訪一嘗其滋味。
坤記糕餅專家:深水埗福華街 115-117 號北河商場地下 10 號舖

34. 丼吉日本吉列專門店餐廳

瘋狂的日本人做出了許多瘋狂的貢獻,香港人該感謝他們對於炸物的美味執著。 丼吉是目前城中最熱門的日本餐廳,以炸物聞名。海鮮種類自蠔到大蝦一應俱全——而招牌菜式非豬扒莫屬。 除了麵衣炸到酥脆之外,豬扒多汁又不油膩是一貫的特色。 帶著你的飢餓和食慾到丼吉大快朵頤,且要有心理準備幾天之內無法恢復消化。
通常需等位約一小時。 丼吉日本吉列專門店餐廳:銅鑼灣告士打道 280 號世貿中心 412 室,電話+852 2577 6617

香港美食
35. B 仔涼粉

佳記甜品的招牌菜是在香港廣受歡迎的 B 仔涼粉。 B 仔涼粉亦稱為 B 仔仙草凍。 滿滿的涼粉上鋪滿了各類水果以及煉奶,份量之多可作為主食。 請記得和另外三個朋友一起分享,否則只好打包回家繼續吃!
佳記甜品:元朗又新街置富中心 7 號舖;電話:+852 2479 4743 www.yl.hk/b

36. 粒粒芒果爽

在許留山,芒果是必備的食材。 甜美濃郁的芒果自泰國進口,在這家連鎖甜品店裡的每樣甜品裡幾乎都有它的蹤跡。不但已征服了香港,現在還將美味傳至三藩市。 本店最具代表性的招牌菜就是粒粒芒果爽,將芒果布甸與濃郁的芒果蓉結合,再配上芒果冰以及大顆的芒果塊。 不再另外加糖,讓客人能享受到水果豐富的天然甜味。
許留山:各地皆有分店,詳細資訊請瀏覽www.hkhls.com

37. 咕嚕肉

這不是鬼佬的菜式! 咕嚕肉亦是香港人相當鐘情的一道菜。 傳統的廣式作法是使用醋、醃梅以及山楂糖,製作出接近鮮紅色的糖醋醬。 現在普遍的作法已改為用番茄醬與色素製成。
咕嚕肉是一般廣東餐廳很普通的菜式,在任何有名的餐廳都可點用,不過我們推薦品質穩定的好彩海鮮酒家,在各地皆有分店,詳細地點資訊請至www.hochoi.com.

38. 樂意扒房

在 香港有許多港式風格的扒房。 受到殖民時期的影響,大多數的港式扒房以熱燙的鐵盤盛裝口感濕潤的牛扒,美味亦被過多的發酵粉破壞殆盡。 樂意扒房以老牌香港西餐廳風格聞名,店內充滿濃濃懷舊氣氛,供應的食物皆有一定水準。 樂意扒房的牛扒注重原味的呈現,為當地港式老牌美味之列,肉質較現代感的西餐稍為柔嫩,卻不失多汁、香味滿溢之特色。 店內另一項特色菜為花膠,可與牛扒作為套餐一起點用。 這才是正統的港式綜合風格。
樂意扒房:灣仔告士打道 50 號馬來西亞大廈 1 樓,電話:+852 2529 8933

香港美食
39. 魚蛋

根據Wikipedia引述蘋果日報 2002 的報導,香港人每天食用約 37,500,000 顆的魚蛋。 從 Google 地圖中即能窺見,每經過兩家 7-Eleven,就有一間專賣魚蛋的小食店。 如果你真的很想吃魚蛋的話,甚至連 7-Eleven 亦能滿足你。 每個人都有自己最鍾意的魚蛋檔,而本站特別推介通達食店彈牙夠味的咖哩魚蛋。
通達食店: 旺角花園街 172 號地下,電話:+852 2332 8376

40. 瑞士雞翼

瑞士雞翼的故事源於一位外國人,雞翼甜甜鹹鹹的香味今他驚喜,便詢問侍者這道「香甜」菜餚的名字。 侍者以為他是指雞翼起源於瑞士,於是瑞士雞翼這個菜名就此誕生。 瑞士汁是一種香濃、甜美的豉油,現已成為許多廣東家庭的必備菜式。 太平館淋上瑞士汁的雞翼風味出色,翼骨入口即化。
太平館餐廳:銅鑼灣白沙道6號,電話:+852 2576-9161, taipingkoon.com

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Dressing in Layers, But Staying Stylish 男士叠穿巧搭配 保暖时尚两不误

Dressing in Layers, But Staying Stylish

Q: I can't be bothered with a topcoat or a raincoat, which are too cumbersome for the car or when I'm on a short business trip on the plane. Don't suggest a leather jacket, because it won't fit over a sport coat or a business suit. What I need is something a little heavier that I don't have to drag around. My wife suggests a vest, but that's too college-professor for my taste. I am 41, and I like to dress in style. Ideas?

─M.T., Oakland, Calif.

A: You sound like the perfect candidate for stylish layered dressing. Your fashion role models here are Italian men, who seem to have an innate flair for looking well-turned out in the fall or early spring, when it is nippy outside and there is no need to be bogged down in heavy outerwear.

Here's an easy solution: a quilted nylon barn jacket with a boxy cut and loose or raglan sleeves. It is super-portable, roomy enough for your suit jacket, and just enough to protect you in the rain. It seems that every Milanese businessman wears a quilted, fingertip-length jacket over his suit. Talk about offhand chic: On my last trip there, I saw a distinguished guy with a quilted jacket over his suit tooling around town on a Vespa scooter.

Italian men don't leave home without a pullover sweater or a heavier scarf─practical layering togs to be tossed on and off. Throw a heavier, flat knit sweater around your shoulders on top of your suit or blazer and let the sleeves dangle down.

Or choose a long, generous open-weave woolen scarf or one in wrinkled rough cotton─solid or with a muted print. Don't fuss with tucking your scarf artfully. Just carelessly whip it around your neck a couple of times, and you're out the door.

American college guys are already into the scarf habit, as well as men of all ages on the streets in Manhattan. No wonder mall chains such as Banana Republic, J. Crew and Zara for Men─as well as city street vendors─carry an array of scarves for men.

For a more downtown attitude, stay toasty in a cashmere hoodie worn under your sport coat. Or how about a puffer vest with deep armholes to wear over your pinstripes?

TERI AGINS


我觉得春秋大衣或者雨衣穿起来比较麻烦,它们过于笨重,不适宜在开车或者搭飞机短途出差时穿。请不要向我建议皮夹克,因为它不适合穿在运动外套或者商务套装外面。我需要的是稍微厚实一些、带着又不致太累赘的衣服。妻子建议我可以穿背心,但我认为它的学究气太重。我今年41岁,喜欢穿得时髦些。您有什么建议吗?

Amy DeVoogd
答:听起来你似乎非常适合时兴的叠穿法。意大利男人算得上是这方面的时尚榜样,在秋季或者早春时节,室外仍然寒意料峭,但又没必要裹着令人行动不便的厚重大衣,而意大利男人对在这个时节出门时如何得体搭配穿衣很有感觉。

这里我有一个简单的解决方法──箱式剪裁、宽袖或者插肩式的夹棉尼龙谷仓夹克。它非常容易携带,又足够套下你的西装外套,而且刚好能在下雨时帮你避雨保暖。每个米兰的商务人士似乎都会在西装外面套一件衣长为手垂下时指尖达到的长度的谷仓夹克。说到随意搭配的时尚,上次在米兰时,我看见一个家伙在西装外面套着一件夹棉夹克,骑着Vespa摩托车在城里四处转悠,很是惹人注目。

意大利男人不会不套件套头衫或者不戴一条厚实些的围巾就出门,它们可是便于穿脱的实用叠穿法宝。身穿西装或者运动上衣时,可以在肩上随意搭一条厚实些的平针针织衫,任凭它的袖子在空中晃荡着。

此外,你也可以选择一条宽大的网眼羊毛长围巾,或者一条纯色或带暗色印花的粗绒棉褶皱款围巾。不必费心去想如何巧妙地系围巾,只需随意把它在脖子上绕上一两圈,你就可以出门了。

美国的大学男生们都已经迷上了系围巾,曼哈顿的大街小巷上,各个年龄段的男士也都系起了围巾。难怪像Banana Republic,J. Crew 和Zara for Men这样的连锁品牌,甚至是城市的街边小贩都在售卖各式各样的男式围巾。

在运动外套里面穿一件羊绒连帽衫既舒适,又更能彰显都市风格。或者,在细条纹衣服外面穿上一件袖窟开得比较低的棉背心,你觉得怎么样?

TERI AGINS
-- M.T.,加利福尼亚奥克兰市

Monday, February 20, 2012

Hazard of the Trade: Bankers' Health 投行工作:身心不能承受之重

Add investment banking to the list of things that could be dangerous to your health.

A University of Southern California researcher found insomnia, alcoholism, heart palpitations, eating disorders and an explosive temper in some of the roughly two dozen entry-level investment bankers she shadowed fresh out of business school.

Every individual she observed over a decade developed a stress-related physical or emotional ailment within several years on the job, she says in a study to be published this month.

Investment banking has long been a beacon for ambitious people who crave competition, big money, steak dinners and paid-for town-car service. The 100-hour workweek, these ironmen and ironwomen tell themselves, is just the opening ante in a high-stakes game.

But investment bankers, salespeople and traders are only human. Under the immense stress of their jobs, many suffer personal and emotional problems that escalate into full-blown crises, with some bankers developing conditions that linger long after they have left the industry.

Of course, no one is being drafted into high finance. Aspiring Wall Street stars sign up for the punishing hours with eyes open. What's more, the study's small size and the lack of a control group raise questions about how closely the findings apply to the broader population of roughly 267,000 would-be masters of the universe.

But Lindley DeGarmo, 58 years old, a former director at Salomon Brothers who left the finance industry in 1995 to become a pastor, recalls how managers often worked the younger hires to exhaustion. 'The culture was very much that these were dogs' bodies,' he says.

John Chrin, a former managing director at J.P. Morgan Chase & Co. who left the firm in June 2009 to pursue an executive-in-residence position at Lehigh University, recalls seeing junior staff gain 30 or 40 pounds within a couple years on the job. When he worked at Merrill Lynch & Co., now a unit of Bank of America Corp., he recalls that one managing director ordered a chauffeur to turn on the air conditioning even though it was out of order, causing the car to burst into flames. The managing director then threatened to have the driver fired. Bank of America declined to comment.

'Maybe the job amplifies some of the tendencies that were already there,' he says.

The USC study began a decade ago at two Wall Street banks that granted access on the condition they remain anonymous.

Alexandra Michel, an assistant management professor at USC's Marshall School of Business, shadowed the bankers at the office─sitting next to them, following them to meetings, mirroring their hours and even pulling all-nighters─for more than 100 hours a week during the first year, about 80 hours a week during the second year, and then followed up with in-person interviews.

The study will be published in the next issue of the Administrative Science Quarterly, due out later this month.

During their first two years, the bankers worked on average 80 to 120 hours a week, but remained eager and energetic, she says. They typically arrived at 6 a.m. and left around midnight.

By the fourth year, however, many bankers were a mess, according to the study. Some were sleep-deprived, blaming their bodies for preventing them from finishing their work. Others developed allergies and substance addictions. Still others were diagnosed with long-term health conditions such as Crohn's disease, psoriasis, rheumatoid arthritis and thyroid disorders.

One mild-mannered banking associate spoke about exploding in rage at a cab driver after unsuccessfully attempting to open a locked door from the outside: 'I became so furious that I kept banging against the windows like crazy, swearing at the poor guy. And then I turned around and saw that a managing director was watching with his mouth open. I was so ashamed.'

Meanwhile, company 'perks' offered to employees, such as take-out meals and car service, had gradually blurred the lines between work and life.

One vice president described work as a never-ending nightmare, waking up every morning and wishing the day before 'was just a bad dream.' Another vice president said he was so worried others might notice his drinking problem that he would 'keep losing half of what they are saying.'

By the sixth year, the participants, now in their mid-30s, had split into two camps: the 60% who remained 'at war' with their bodies, and the remaining 40% who decided to prioritize their health, meaning they paid more attention to sleep, exercise and diet and set limits on how much they allowed work to consume them.

Roughly one-fifth of the bankers left the profession, she adds. For fear of being exposed, the banks prohibited her from detailing the exact size of the study group, attrition rate and precise start date.

Bankers are at higher risk for burnout and mental-health problems due to the volatility in their profession, says Alden Cass, a New York-based clinical psychologist who specializes in counseling Wall Street professionals. In a study of 26 stockbrokers he conducted a decade ago, Mr. Cass found nearly one-quarter had clinical levels of depression, more than three times the rate among the general population. That was when the economy was booming and compensation levels were high, he adds.

Recent turmoil on Wall Street has served to heighten stress levels. That makes the roughly 40 patients who stream into Mr. Cass's midtown office each week appear even more anxious and high-strung than before.

Most seek help after their personal relationships are affected by the job. Some are addicted to prescription drugs like Adderall or Ritalin. To cope, they resort to 'depersonalization,' a feeling of numbness toward the rest of the world. A few have been suicidal.

Many have neglected their health for so long that Mr. Cass gets them to go for physical check-ups.

'There's a reason you don't find an awful lot of old investment bankers,' says Mr. DeGarmo, the former Salomon Brothers director. 'It's a tough life.'

LESLIE KWOH

Thursday, February 9, 2012

Are you a striver, slacker or fantasist? 大城市已成拼搏者的天下?



It may be the defining London sight: people walking up escalators at Tube stations. In this city only tourists stand goggling blankly into space. That’s because London – like Manhattan, Hong Kong and other great cities – has fallen into the hands of strivers. They are driving everyone else out of town.这也许算是伦敦的标志性景象:人们沿着地铁站的自动扶梯向上爬。在这个城市,只有游客才会傻站着发呆。这是因为伦敦和曼哈顿、香港以及其他大城市一样,已经成为拼搏者的天下。他们正把所有其他人赶出城中心。
Philosophers and pop psychologists spent centuries trying to explain humankind, but only in 1996 did the South African novelist Jo-Anne Richards and I finally identify the three basic human types: strivers, slackers and fantasists.哲学家和大众心理学家花费了数百年时间,试图理解人类,但直到1996年,南非小说家约-安妮•理查兹(Jo-Anne Richards)和我才终于确定,人类有三种基本类型:拼搏者、游手好闲者和幻想者。
Strivers are restless overachievers who walk up escalators. Their habitats include the City of London and Davos. Almost all political leaders are strivers, except ones who inherited their position, such as George W. Bush. As Richards explains in a now-dead book proposal: “Strivers start companies, build skyscrapers and finish marathons. But not all strivers rule the world. They also make the trains run on time, and organise charities.” A working-class female striver might become a head nurse. If the job market sidelines women altogether, she will strive vicariously, through her children. “Strivers,” writes Richards, “have the energy and discipline to make other people’s dreams come true.” Strivers make every minute count, and devote their leisure-time to self-improvement. Their drugs of choice are accelerators: coffee and cocaine.拼搏者是那些沿着自动扶梯向上爬的、不知疲倦的“过分上进者”。他们的聚集地包括伦敦金融城(City of London)和达沃斯。几乎所有的政治领导人都是拼搏者,除了那些靠继承得到职位的人,比如乔治•W•布什(George W. Bush)。正如理查兹在一份已被否决的图书计划中所写的:“拼搏者创立公司、修建摩天大楼、跑完马拉松。但并不是所有的拼搏者都在统治世界。他们也保证列车准点和组织慈善活动。”一名工人阶级的女拼搏者可能成为护士长。如果就业市场彻底排除女性,她会通过她的子女间接地拼搏。“拼搏者,”理查兹写道,“拥有使其他人梦想成真的活力和自制力。”拼搏者使每一分钟都过得充实,并把他们的闲暇时光都用来完善自己。他们最喜欢的是兴奋剂:咖啡和可卡因。
By contrast, slackers do nothing. “They prefer to avoid effort rather than pursue pleasure,” writes Richards. “This in itself can be exhausting.” It’s hard to name any well-known slackers, because by definition slackers rarely become famous, except by accident. Sometimes a slacker will get an idea for a novel or for creating world peace, but then she sinks back into the sofa and the moment passes. Whereas business newspapers celebrate strivers, slacker newspapers celebrate lottery winners. Andrew Lamprecht, in his seminal article on slackers, writes that although they have “no idea what they want from life” they often compensate with “a catholic knowledge of television”.相比之下,游手好闲者什么也不做。“他们更喜欢逃避劳动,而不是追求幸福,”理查兹写道。“这本身就可能使人精疲力尽。”人们很难说出有名的游手好闲者,因为从定义上讲,游手好闲者很难出名,除非是意外情况。有时,游手好闲者也会迸发出写小说或缔造世界和平的灵感,但随即她又会窝到沙发里,时光就这样虚度。尽管财经报纸在不停地赞美拼搏者,休闲报纸却为彩票中奖者大唱赞歌。安德鲁•兰普雷克特(Andrew Lamprecht)在他那篇影响巨大的关于游手好闲者的文章中写道,尽管他们“不知道想从生活中得到什么”,但他们却经常以“从电视中获得的广博的知识面”作为弥补。
If slackers devote their leisure time to anything, it’s extended adolescent hobbies such as surfing or collecting comics. Their drugs of choice are anaesthetics: vodka or cigarettes.如果游手好闲者把闲暇时光用来做些什么的话,那一定是青春期爱好的延续,比如网上冲浪或收集漫画。他们最喜欢的是麻醉剂:伏特加或香烟。
The third human type, the fantasist, lives inside his imagination. Fantasists have little desire to impose themselves on the world. A fantasist might spend years writing a short story, then discard it. Fantasists are never efficient and always miss deadlines. They are suckers for new age fads such as crystals. They do create a lot of art, which strivers buy. Fantasist drugs of choice stimulate fantasy: marijuana or ecstasy. When people are presented with the three human archetypes, most claim to be fantasists.第三类人是幻想者,他们活在自己的想象里。幻想者对于投身现实世界没什么兴趣。他们可能花费数年的时间写一篇短篇小说,然后丢到一旁。幻想者从来没有效率,总是错过最后期限。他们很容易对水晶这类新世纪的时尚着迷。他们确实创造了许多艺术作品,被拼搏者购买。幻想者最喜爱的是能刺激幻想的东西:大麻或摇头丸。当人们面对这三种类型时,大部分人都自称是幻想者。
In truth, real people are usually a mix of the three archetypes. For instance, successful artists such as Steven Spielberg or Damien Hirst are generally striver-fantasists. However, most people tend towards one particular type: for instance, someone might be slacker-dominant, with fantasist streaks.实际上,真实的人通常是三者的结合。例如,像史蒂文•斯皮尔伯格(Steven Spielberg)和达米安•赫斯特(Damien Hirst)这样的成功艺术家,通常是拼搏型幻想家。不过,大部分人都偏向一种类型,比如,一个人可能主要是游手好闲者,同时具有一些幻想者的特点。
Naturally the three types irritate each other. A fantasist friend once told me an idea he had for a book. Being a striver, I began to strategise about finding a publisher. The more I talked, the less enthusiastic my friend became. Eventually, he changed the subject. He never intended to write the book. He just liked imagining it.自然,这三类人互相不适应。一位幻想型朋友曾经告诉我,他想写一本书。作为拼搏者,我开始筹划寻找出版商。我说得越多,我的朋友越没有热情。最终,他改变了想法。他再也不想写这本书了。他只是喜欢幻想它。
We strivers are even more at odds with slackers. Our force fields clash with theirs: our very presence makes them stressed, as if we were human deadlines. You see this clash in politics, where striver rulers are always exhorting slacker populations to pull their socks up: in Nicolas Sarkozy’s formulation: “Work harder to earn more.” Rulers hate the notion that someone somewhere might be slacking. Soviet leaders were forever promoting brick-laying contests or rationing vodka, unaware that they were fighting human nature. But slackers rarely revolt against striver rule. Instead, they dream up conspiracy theories.我们拼搏者与游手好闲者要更加格格不入。我们与他们气场不合:我们的存在使他们感到压力,仿佛我们就是人性的终结者。你可以在政治中看到这种冲突,拼搏型统治者总是在劝诫游手好闲型的民众更加努力地工作,用尼古拉•萨科齐(Nicolas Sarkozy)的话说就是,“更努力地工作,赚更多的钱”。一想到有某人在某处游手好闲,统治者就会不高兴。苏联领导人从来都在提倡砌砖比赛或定量配给伏特加,而对自己是在与人性为敌毫无知觉。但游手好闲者很少会反抗拼搏者的统治。相反,他们会幻想阴谋论。
No wonder the three archetypes have tended to segregate themselves. In big cities, strivers gravitate to financial districts, whereas fantasists establish enclaves such as Greenwich Village in 1950s New York or Belleville in today’s Paris. When strivers discover these enclaves and drive up prices, fantasists create more distant enclaves. Slackers generally avoid big cities, often preferring the parental home, writes Richards.无怪乎这三类人会倾向于互相隔离。在大城市中,拼搏者向金融区聚集,幻想者则建立起像20世纪50年代纽约的格林威治村(Greenwich Village)和当今巴黎贝尔维尔(Belleville)这样的小天地。当拼搏者发现这些小天地,并推高物价后,幻想者就会在更偏远的地方建立小天地。理查兹写道,游手好闲者通常会避开大城市,更偏爱父母的家乡。
In the US, with its great geographic mobility, the separation of the three types was always marked. Strivers headed for Manhattan and Washington, whereas slackers preferred places such as Miami. You sense each city’s dominant mode the minute you arrive: at JFK airport in New York, the lady running the cab rank bellows, “Move it along, people! You, sir, take this cab.” She’s on her way up. At Miami airport, you can’t even find cabs.在美国,由于地理上的巨大流动性,这三类人的分离一直十分明显。拼搏者向曼哈顿和华盛顿聚集,游手好闲者则偏爱迈阿密这样的地方。抵达每座城市的第一分钟,你就能感觉出它的主导类型:在纽约肯尼迪机场(JFK airport),管理出租车站的女士喊着,“排队向前走,大家!你,先生,上这辆车”。她在她的拼搏路上。在迈阿密机场,你甚至找不到出租车。
However, segregation of the three human types is now proceeding faster than ever before. Rising house prices and growing inequality are driving non-strivers out of big cities, and even out of previously fantasist coastal towns such as Cape Town and San Francisco. Slackers and fantasists must be upset, but unless you read blogs their voices go unheard, and they certainly won’t do anything about it.然而,现在这三类人的分离比以往任何时候都更快了。攀升的房屋价格和日益拉大的贫富分化正把非拼搏者赶出大城市,甚至赶出开普敦和旧金山这些曾经属于幻想者的海滨城市。游手好闲者和幻想者一定满腹怨言,但除非你阅读他们的博客,否则他们的声音不会有人听到,而他们自己显然不会对此采取任何行动。
译者/方舟


It may be the defining London sight: people walking up escalators at Tube stations. In this city only tourists stand goggling blankly into space. That’s because London – like Manhattan, Hong Kong and other great cities – has fallen into the hands of strivers. They are driving everyone else out of town.这也许算是伦敦的标志性景象:人们沿着地铁站的自动扶梯向上爬。在这个城市,只有游客才会傻站着发呆。这是因为伦敦和曼哈顿、香港以及其他大城市一样,已经成为拼搏者的天下。他们正把所有其他人赶出城中心。
Philosophers and pop psychologists spent centuries trying to explain humankind, but only in 1996 did the South African novelist Jo-Anne Richards and I finally identify the three basic human types: strivers, slackers and fantasists.哲学家和大众心理学家花费了数百年时间,试图理解人类,但直到1996年,南非小说家约-安妮•理查兹(Jo-Anne Richards)和我才终于确定,人类有三种基本类型:拼搏者、游手好闲者和幻想者。
Strivers are restless overachievers who walk up escalators. Their habitats include the City of London and Davos. Almost all political leaders are strivers, except ones who inherited their position, such as George W. Bush. As Richards explains in a now-dead book proposal: “Strivers start companies, build skyscrapers and finish marathons. But not all strivers rule the world. They also make the trains run on time, and organise charities.” A working-class female striver might become a head nurse. If the job market sidelines women altogether, she will strive vicariously, through her children. “Strivers,” writes Richards, “have the energy and discipline to make other people’s dreams come true.” Strivers make every minute count, and devote their leisure-time to self-improvement. Their drugs of choice are accelerators: coffee and cocaine.拼搏者是那些沿着自动扶梯向上爬的、不知疲倦的“过分上进者”。他们的聚集地包括伦敦金融城(City of London)和达沃斯。几乎所有的政治领导人都是拼搏者,除了那些靠继承得到职位的人,比如乔治•W•布什(George W. Bush)。正如理查兹在一份已被否决的图书计划中所写的:“拼搏者创立公司、修建摩天大楼、跑完马拉松。但并不是所有的拼搏者都在统治世界。他们也保证列车准点和组织慈善活动。”一名工人阶级的女拼搏者可能成为护士长。如果就业市场彻底排除女性,她会通过她的子女间接地拼搏。“拼搏者,”理查兹写道,“拥有使其他人梦想成真的活力和自制力。”拼搏者使每一分钟都过得充实,并把他们的闲暇时光都用来完善自己。他们最喜欢的是兴奋剂:咖啡和可卡因。
By contrast, slackers do nothing. “They prefer to avoid effort rather than pursue pleasure,” writes Richards. “This in itself can be exhausting.” It’s hard to name any well-known slackers, because by definition slackers rarely become famous, except by accident. Sometimes a slacker will get an idea for a novel or for creating world peace, but then she sinks back into the sofa and the moment passes. Whereas business newspapers celebrate strivers, slacker newspapers celebrate lottery winners. Andrew Lamprecht, in his seminal article on slackers, writes that although they have “no idea what they want from life” they often compensate with “a catholic knowledge of television”.相比之下,游手好闲者什么也不做。“他们更喜欢逃避劳动,而不是追求幸福,”理查兹写道。“这本身就可能使人精疲力尽。”人们很难说出有名的游手好闲者,因为从定义上讲,游手好闲者很难出名,除非是意外情况。有时,游手好闲者也会迸发出写小说或缔造世界和平的灵感,但随即她又会窝到沙发里,时光就这样虚度。尽管财经报纸在不停地赞美拼搏者,休闲报纸却为彩票中奖者大唱赞歌。安德鲁•兰普雷克特(Andrew Lamprecht)在他那篇影响巨大的关于游手好闲者的文章中写道,尽管他们“不知道想从生活中得到什么”,但他们却经常以“从电视中获得的广博的知识面”作为弥补。
If slackers devote their leisure time to anything, it’s extended adolescent hobbies such as surfing or collecting comics. Their drugs of choice are anaesthetics: vodka or cigarettes.如果游手好闲者把闲暇时光用来做些什么的话,那一定是青春期爱好的延续,比如网上冲浪或收集漫画。他们最喜欢的是麻醉剂:伏特加或香烟。
The third human type, the fantasist, lives inside his imagination. Fantasists have little desire to impose themselves on the world. A fantasist might spend years writing a short story, then discard it. Fantasists are never efficient and always miss deadlines. They are suckers for new age fads such as crystals. They do create a lot of art, which strivers buy. Fantasist drugs of choice stimulate fantasy: marijuana or ecstasy. When people are presented with the three human archetypes, most claim to be fantasists.第三类人是幻想者,他们活在自己的想象里。幻想者对于投身现实世界没什么兴趣。他们可能花费数年的时间写一篇短篇小说,然后丢到一旁。幻想者从来没有效率,总是错过最后期限。他们很容易对水晶这类新世纪的时尚着迷。他们确实创造了许多艺术作品,被拼搏者购买。幻想者最喜爱的是能刺激幻想的东西:大麻或摇头丸。当人们面对这三种类型时,大部分人都自称是幻想者。
In truth, real people are usually a mix of the three archetypes. For instance, successful artists such as Steven Spielberg or Damien Hirst are generally striver-fantasists. However, most people tend towards one particular type: for instance, someone might be slacker-dominant, with fantasist streaks.实际上,真实的人通常是三者的结合。例如,像史蒂文•斯皮尔伯格(Steven Spielberg)和达米安•赫斯特(Damien Hirst)这样的成功艺术家,通常是拼搏型幻想家。不过,大部分人都偏向一种类型,比如,一个人可能主要是游手好闲者,同时具有一些幻想者的特点。
Naturally the three types irritate each other. A fantasist friend once told me an idea he had for a book. Being a striver, I began to strategise about finding a publisher. The more I talked, the less enthusiastic my friend became. Eventually, he changed the subject. He never intended to write the book. He just liked imagining it.自然,这三类人互相不适应。一位幻想型朋友曾经告诉我,他想写一本书。作为拼搏者,我开始筹划寻找出版商。我说得越多,我的朋友越没有热情。最终,他改变了想法。他再也不想写这本书了。他只是喜欢幻想它。
We strivers are even more at odds with slackers. Our force fields clash with theirs: our very presence makes them stressed, as if we were human deadlines. You see this clash in politics, where striver rulers are always exhorting slacker populations to pull their socks up: in Nicolas Sarkozy’s formulation: “Work harder to earn more.” Rulers hate the notion that someone somewhere might be slacking. Soviet leaders were forever promoting brick-laying contests or rationing vodka, unaware that they were fighting human nature. But slackers rarely revolt against striver rule. Instead, they dream up conspiracy theories.我们拼搏者与游手好闲者要更加格格不入。我们与他们气场不合:我们的存在使他们感到压力,仿佛我们就是人性的终结者。你可以在政治中看到这种冲突,拼搏型统治者总是在劝诫游手好闲型的民众更加努力地工作,用尼古拉•萨科齐(Nicolas Sarkozy)的话说就是,“更努力地工作,赚更多的钱”。一想到有某人在某处游手好闲,统治者就会不高兴。苏联领导人从来都在提倡砌砖比赛或定量配给伏特加,而对自己是在与人性为敌毫无知觉。但游手好闲者很少会反抗拼搏者的统治。相反,他们会幻想阴谋论。
No wonder the three archetypes have tended to segregate themselves. In big cities, strivers gravitate to financial districts, whereas fantasists establish enclaves such as Greenwich Village in 1950s New York or Belleville in today’s Paris. When strivers discover these enclaves and drive up prices, fantasists create more distant enclaves. Slackers generally avoid big cities, often preferring the parental home, writes Richards.无怪乎这三类人会倾向于互相隔离。在大城市中,拼搏者向金融区聚集,幻想者则建立起像20世纪50年代纽约的格林威治村(Greenwich Village)和当今巴黎贝尔维尔(Belleville)这样的小天地。当拼搏者发现这些小天地,并推高物价后,幻想者就会在更偏远的地方建立小天地。理查兹写道,游手好闲者通常会避开大城市,更偏爱父母的家乡。
In the US, with its great geographic mobility, the separation of the three types was always marked. Strivers headed for Manhattan and Washington, whereas slackers preferred places such as Miami. You sense each city’s dominant mode the minute you arrive: at JFK airport in New York, the lady running the cab rank bellows, “Move it along, people! You, sir, take this cab.” She’s on her way up. At Miami airport, you can’t even find cabs.在美国,由于地理上的巨大流动性,这三类人的分离一直十分明显。拼搏者向曼哈顿和华盛顿聚集,游手好闲者则偏爱迈阿密这样的地方。抵达每座城市的第一分钟,你就能感觉出它的主导类型:在纽约肯尼迪机场(JFK airport),管理出租车站的女士喊着,“排队向前走,大家!你,先生,上这辆车”。她在她的拼搏路上。在迈阿密机场,你甚至找不到出租车。
However, segregation of the three human types is now proceeding faster than ever before. Rising house prices and growing inequality are driving non-strivers out of big cities, and even out of previously fantasist coastal towns such as Cape Town and San Francisco. Slackers and fantasists must be upset, but unless you read blogs their voices go unheard, and they certainly won’t do anything about it.然而,现在这三类人的分离比以往任何时候都更快了。攀升的房屋价格和日益拉大的贫富分化正把非拼搏者赶出大城市,甚至赶出开普敦和旧金山这些曾经属于幻想者的海滨城市。游手好闲者和幻想者一定满腹怨言,但除非你阅读他们的博客,否则他们的声音不会有人听到,而他们自己显然不会对此采取任何行动。
译者/方舟

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Top 10 Wealth Quotes of the Year 2011年10大“财富名言”

The number one, two and three quotes were all about the rich, or more specifically, about the anti-rich. They were, in order:

1. “We are the 99 percent.” ─ slogan of Occupy movement.

2. “There is nobody in this country who got rich on his own. Nobody. You built a factory out there ─ good for you! But I want to be clear. You moved your goods to market on the roads the rest of us paid for. You hired workers the rest of us paid to educate. You were safe in your factory because of police forces and fire forces that the rest of us paid for.” ─ U.S. Sen. candidate Elizabeth Warren, speaking in Andover, Mass., in August.

3. “My friends and I have been coddled long enough by a billionaire-friendly Congress.” ─ Billionaire Warren Buffett, in a New York Times op-ed on Aug. 15.

As a full-time Wealth Watcher, I spotted some other quotes that should rank right up there. And not all were anti-rich.

To round out the top 10, here are seven my favorites from this year’s Wealth Report:

4.“He’s a wealthy man, a very wealthy man. If you have a half a million dollar purchase from Tiffany’s, you’re not a middle class American.” ─ Mitt Romney (net worth $160 million plus on lesser millionaire Newt Gingrich)

5.“Rather than assume that the wealthy are a monolithic, selfish and unfeeling lot who must be subjugated by the force of the state, set a tone that encourages people of good will to meet in the middle.” ─ Leon Cooperman, open letter to President Obama.

6.“My personal taxes are 53% of my taxable income. That’s 36% on the federal level and 17% for state and local.” ─ Private-equity chief Steve Schwarzman on taxing the rich more.

7.“When businesspeople take credit for creating jobs, it is like squirrels taking credit for creating evolution. In fact, it’s the other way around.” ─ Nick Hanauer, entrepreneur who supports higher taxes on the wealthy.

8.“That would probably be the largest support order in the history of the Family Court,” ─ Manhattan Family Court Support Magistrate Matthew Troy, on Linda Evangelista’s request for $46,000 a month in child support for her three-year old.

9.“As with the onset of sudden celebrity, for the newly rich, the world often becomes a darker, narrower, less generous place; a paradox that elicits scant sympathy, but is nonetheless true.” ─ British millionaire Felix Dennis in his new book “The Narrow Road.”

10.“It only lasted 15 minutes but the flavors will last in the memory forever.” ─ Businessman Carl Weininger after eating his $34,000 pudding.

What are some of your favorite wealth quotes of the year?

Robert Frank

2
011年10大“财富名言”新鲜出炉。头三甲都与富人有关,更准确地说,与反对富人有关。

Bloomberg News
利昂•库珀曼(Leon Cooperman)
1.“我们是99%。”──“占领华尔街”运动的口号

2.“这个国家没人能够凭一己之力致富,没有任何人。你自己建了一家工厂──挺好!但要记住:你的产品是通过大家付钱修起来的马路运出去的,你用的工人是大家花钱教育的,保护你工厂安全的警察和消防员队伍是大家纳税支撑起来的。”──摘自2011年8月美国候选参议员伊丽莎白•沃伦(Elizabeth Warren)在马萨诸塞州安度华市(Andover)的一次演讲

3.“我和朋友们已经受到亲近亿万富翁的美国国会悉心照顾太久了。”──摘自2011年8月15日《纽约时报》(New York Times)刊发的亿万富翁沃伦•巴菲特(Warren Buffett)的一篇特稿

作为一名全天候的财富观察者,今年我还发现了一些可圈可点的财富名言。当然,它们并不全是反对富人的。

下面是我从2011年《华尔街日报》的“财富报告”(Wealth Report)专栏中选出的排名第四到第10的给力名言:

4.“他是个有钱人,一个非常有钱的人。如果你在蒂芙尼(Tiffany)的采购金额达到50万美元,那就不属于美国的中产阶层了。”──资产净值1.6亿美元以上的米特•罗姆尼(Mitt Romney)对身家稍逊的百万富翁纽特•金里奇(Newt Gingrich)的评价

5.“与其把有钱人视为一块自私自利、麻木不仁、需要国家敲打敲打的顽石,不如确定一种社会基调,鼓励抱有善意的有钱人和普通人相互理解,达成妥协。”──摘自投资专家利昂•库珀曼(Leon Cooperman)致奥巴马总统(President Obama)的公开信

6.“我支付的个税占我应税收入的53%,其中36%交给联邦政府层面,17%交给州和当地政府层面。”──私募股权基金首席执行长史蒂夫•舒瓦兹曼(Steve Schwarzman)谈对富人多征税的问题

7.“当商人吹嘘他们创造了就业岗位时,就像松鼠吹嘘自己启动了物种进化。事实上,这个顺序是正好倒过来的。”──支持对富人征税的企业家尼克•汉诺尔(Nick Hanauer)

8.“这可能是家庭法院(Family Court)有史以来做出的最大金额的赡养判决。”──曼哈顿家庭法院助理法官麦修•特洛伊(Matthew Troy)谈及琳达•伊万格丽斯塔(Linda Evangelista)要求给她三岁的孩子每月46,000美元的赡养费一案

9.“对那些一夜成名或一夜暴富的人来说,整个世界往往变得更黑暗、更狭窄和更尖刻。这是一个悖论,难以令人产生同情心,但千真万确。”──摘自英国百万富翁菲利克斯•丹尼斯(Felix Dennis)的新书《狭路》(The Narrow Road)

10.“吃完它只花了15分钟,但它的余味将令我终生回味。”──商人卡尔•魏宁格尔(Carl Weininger)谈自己吃下一个售价为34,000美元的布丁后的感觉

你今年最喜欢的财富名言有哪些呢?

如何制作美味的烘焙巧克力 Baked Hot Chocolate

F. Martin Ramin for The Wall Street Journal, Styling by Anne Cardenas


一直认为热巧克力是甜品的不二之选──只要它足够醇厚、盛在小咖啡杯中并且搭着好玩的小玩意(比如一根薄荷味棒棒糖)。后来,我从《巧克力的真谛》(The Essence of Chocolate)这本书中发现了这道烘焙热巧克力的食谱,该书由巧克力生产商Scharffen Berger的创始人约翰•萨芬伯格(John Scharffenberger)和罗伯特•斯坦伯格(Robert Steinberg)撰写。虽然我会继续在晚餐后端上热巧克力,兴之所至时将这道饮品调制成一道新颍的美味也算得上一件乐事。

这道美食由一位名为海蒂•弗莱德兰德(Heidi Friedlander)的面点师创作,并于十多年前在克利夫兰的Moxi小酒馆推出,而且一直是这家酒馆最受欢迎的甜点。它只需用到四种原料,制作方法再简单不过。这些简单原料打造出的这道美味分为质地各异的三层──表面一层略微酥脆,中间一层是温热、丝绸般柔滑的布丁状物,底层是你所能想象得到的最为醇厚的热巧克力。

制作这道美食的关键是得用上乘巧克力。选用能勾起你食欲的巧克力,而不是还算不错的烘焙用巧克力。如果你喜欢发泡鲜奶油的话,略微加入一点点糖粉增甜即可,如果再淋上少许波旁威士忌肯定也不会招致抱怨的。最后,用小马克杯奉上这最后一道美食还能带来“错视效果”,至少有一位客人会毫不察觉、端起杯子就想小啜一口,可以说它既是一道美味,又是一个美食小把戏。

──Aleksandra Crapanzano

总时长:40分钟

分量:四人份

食材:

9盎司(约合255克)质量上乘的半甜巧克力,将它们切碎。

6大勺无盐黄油,把它们切成小块。

4枚大鸡蛋

四分之一杯砂糖

微甜的发泡鲜奶油适量(非必需)。

制作步骤:

1. 将烤箱预加热到华氏350度。把四个标准一杯容量的耐高温咖啡杯、马克杯或者容量为8盎司的模具摆放在烘焙盘或烤盘中。

2. 双层煮锅加水置于火上,待水烧到微微沸腾时,将巧克力和黄油放在煮锅内隔水融化。间或搅拌几次,直到巧克力和黄油完全融化,然后将煮锅端下放在一旁备用。

3. 将鸡蛋打入碗内,加入适量糖搅拌均匀,然后把碗置于微微沸腾的水上,搅拌至感觉到温热为止。

4. 将碗端出,用电动搅拌器将蛋液打到变得发泡蓬松为止,时间为3至5分钟。将蛋液平缓地拌入巧克力与黄油混合物中。

5. 用勺子将混合物盛入杯中,然后在烘焙盘中加入足够的高温热水,加到位于杯子的一半高度即可。将烘焙盘放入烤箱烤15至20分钟,直到表层色泽变得不再光亮,最后将杯子从烤盘上小心取出。

6. 趁热享用或者待其冷却到室温时享用,有需要的话,还可浇上一大勺发泡鲜奶油。布丁可以冷藏长达一天时间,如需重新加热,先将它们置于室温环境放置一会儿,然后放入华氏350 度的烤箱内加热到温热,时间约为5分钟。