Dressing in Layers, But Staying Stylish 男士叠穿巧搭配 保暖时尚两不误

Dressing in Layers, But Staying Stylish

Q: I can't be bothered with a topcoat or a raincoat, which are too cumbersome for the car or when I'm on a short business trip on the plane. Don't suggest a leather jacket, because it won't fit over a sport coat or a business suit. What I need is something a little heavier that I don't have to drag around. My wife suggests a vest, but that's too college-professor for my taste. I am 41, and I like to dress in style. Ideas?

─M.T., Oakland, Calif.

A: You sound like the perfect candidate for stylish layered dressing. Your fashion role models here are Italian men, who seem to have an innate flair for looking well-turned out in the fall or early spring, when it is nippy outside and there is no need to be bogged down in heavy outerwear.

Here's an easy solution: a quilted nylon barn jacket with a boxy cut and loose or raglan sleeves. It is super-portable, roomy enough for your suit jacket, and just enough to protect you in the rain. It seems that every Milanese businessman wears a quilted, fingertip-length jacket over his suit. Talk about offhand chic: On my last trip there, I saw a distinguished guy with a quilted jacket over his suit tooling around town on a Vespa scooter.

Italian men don't leave home without a pullover sweater or a heavier scarf─practical layering togs to be tossed on and off. Throw a heavier, flat knit sweater around your shoulders on top of your suit or blazer and let the sleeves dangle down.

Or choose a long, generous open-weave woolen scarf or one in wrinkled rough cotton─solid or with a muted print. Don't fuss with tucking your scarf artfully. Just carelessly whip it around your neck a couple of times, and you're out the door.

American college guys are already into the scarf habit, as well as men of all ages on the streets in Manhattan. No wonder mall chains such as Banana Republic, J. Crew and Zara for Men─as well as city street vendors─carry an array of scarves for men.

For a more downtown attitude, stay toasty in a cashmere hoodie worn under your sport coat. Or how about a puffer vest with deep armholes to wear over your pinstripes?

TERI AGINS

我觉得春秋大衣或者雨衣穿起来比较麻烦，它们过于笨重，不适宜在开车或者搭飞机短途出差时穿。请不要向我建议皮夹克，因为它不适合穿在运动外套或者商务套装外面。我需要的是稍微厚实一些、带着又不致太累赘的衣服。妻子建议我可以穿背心，但我认为它的学究气太重。我今年41岁，喜欢穿得时髦些。您有什么建议吗？

Amy DeVoogd

答：听起来你似乎非常适合时兴的叠穿法。意大利男人算得上是这方面的时尚榜样，在秋季或者早春时节，室外仍然寒意料峭，但又没必要裹着令人行动不便的厚重大衣，而意大利男人对在这个时节出门时如何得体搭配穿衣很有感觉。

这里我有一个简单的解决方法──箱式剪裁、宽袖或者插肩式的夹棉尼龙谷仓夹克。它非常容易携带，又足够套下你的西装外套，而且刚好能在下雨时帮你避雨保暖。每个米兰的商务人士似乎都会在西装外面套一件衣长为手垂下时指尖达到的长度的谷仓夹克。说到随意搭配的时尚，上次在米兰时，我看见一个家伙在西装外面套着一件夹棉夹克，骑着Vespa摩托车在城里四处转悠，很是惹人注目。

意大利男人不会不套件套头衫或者不戴一条厚实些的围巾就出门，它们可是便于穿脱的实用叠穿法宝。身穿西装或者运动上衣时，可以在肩上随意搭一条厚实些的平针针织衫，任凭它的袖子在空中晃荡着。

此外，你也可以选择一条宽大的网眼羊毛长围巾，或者一条纯色或带暗色印花的粗绒棉褶皱款围巾。不必费心去想如何巧妙地系围巾，只需随意把它在脖子上绕上一两圈，你就可以出门了。

美国的大学男生们都已经迷上了系围巾，曼哈顿的大街小巷上，各个年龄段的男士也都系起了围巾。难怪像Banana Republic，J. Crew 和Zara for Men这样的连锁品牌，甚至是城市的街边小贩都在售卖各式各样的男式围巾。

在运动外套里面穿一件羊绒连帽衫既舒适，又更能彰显都市风格。或者，在细条纹衣服外面穿上一件袖窟开得比较低的棉背心，你觉得怎么样？

TERI AGINS-- M.T.，加利福尼亚奥克兰市